TK bondservnt

dritz 5/8" snaps are shorter than the tandy line 24. the tandy line 24 is a very nice snap system. lot's of hammering with the anvil. anvil tip: as you set your snaps tilt the anvil post in a circular motion about 20deg. orr center with this circular hammering motion you set the cap in a outward curve, allowing the snap to seat more completely.

PM sent, added to order.

a rectangle allows for the plate to be curved. having the tape might sound excessive... but it's a winner in the long run. it's hard enough preping, snaping, riveting and tape... it's lot's of work!

a heat gun is not needed if you make the hole large enough. putting tape on the back, and making the hole larger is much easier than using a heat gun on 20 snap plates.

the key to snap plates is making the hole large enough for the snap to sit flush. if you make the hole too small the snap will ride up in back and have a gap. make sure you cover the back of the snap/rivet with white duck tape this way you can use a lot of e6000 on each end without the worry of heat transfering to the snap as much.

the whole brackets and bolts setup is screen accurate. if you have an ABS kit they can work fine, usually the PVC or more robust plastics such as used by TM's 1.5mm setups work best with the original strapping styles. you can purchase pre-made bracket setups from mrnostripes in the sale section. I simply use elastic straps and plastic snap plates with rivets. I actually put a rivet though the plastic plate to help make the snaps even more robust. (they still can fail) in both systems of strapping the lengths of the elastic and your spacing determines how tight everything wants to be. the key to setting up your strapping comes from 3 areas. 1. keep all elastics balanced in tension. 2. keep in mind your chest plate/backplate and abdomen connections should put your chest and back as close together at the top as is comfortable. 3. put the strapping or harness system so that the ab/butt/kidney sections act like a pair of pants. high and tight allows more movement for stairs and such.

a lot of those frowns are unbalanced, many have 5th tooth painted, stuff like that is really wonky! ------------

I would troop it. they do fine if you don't hand em off to someone else!

e6000 and white tape to cover the glue. white duck tape keeps the elastic from moving, and also keeps the clamp from attaching to the location.

I have sidegap shim plastic and cover strips. PM sent.

ATA uses the TE/AP measurement for the diameter of the tube, so it's slightly smaller than a TM or RS props tube. 7 1/2 is the usual resulting length 2 1/2 inches diameter you want 6/32 inch round head slotted decorative screws and nuts. 1inch aluminum by 1/16inch thick drill first hole 1/2" from end drill second hole 1 1/2inches from that. ----------

frowns in the films were so vastly different I don't see how it could matter mathias? some even have joker style flip... some square off. it's really a toss up!

I have extra cover strips from AP and I live in california. how much do you need?

were there any metal parts in your setup? under clamping pressure?

tan and black are cannon just not loops! (for ANH)

heat is generated during e=6000 cure

happy new troop. year!

PM sent

not a problem!

AP makes all his holsters in the ESB style. to change them out simply cut 3/4" tan leather straps and remove the cap rivets. I replace them with 1/4" chicago screws at the top. save some of the loop material for the black square washers you'll need to cover the tan straps. I have all the parts needed, want them?

different kinds of latex have different melting points. I would not want to use glue and paint. I've made my own latex hand guards by simply pouring brush on latex in thin coats inside the plastic handplates that come with my armor. first I mix in the color, and they pop out white, or black... or whatever color I want.

mix some acrylic white craft paint into some latex and brush it on then seal with angelus clear leather sealer for the shine if you want them to shine?

the AP sniper knee is much different than the TM or RS props (actually sculpted by TM)

stress fractures will happen with the AP plate because it was designed to be riveted, thus able to swivel and move around. this is why I wanted to allow rivets but have them filled. was shot down.

look at screenshots from the film. the knee is not perfect. it's in fact tilted a bit. when you stand with your legs apart and thighs on, I believe it's best to align it to fit the shin top itself.