TK bondservnt

ah... tour suit... ROTJ but in another life became the TE suit! modded to heck!

black refers to the background of the wheel and white is the correct color for 4-6 digits. some early brass eagle counters have 4 digits separated by squares. you should be fine with the printout from the above set he shows in photos as long as you use no yellow numbers. the yellow numbers I consider to be non cannon because the counters with yellow numbers are generally not brass eagle's with brass connection boxes. I'm sure that having yellow numbers is not really a rule.. it's just derived from my understanding of steel counters with plastic boxes in the front. since no brass counters with brass fronts have had yellow numbers. out of the 10 or so counters that I have owned the only yellow number versions I've ever seen were not brass at all. and since we see brass weathering we should make the logical assumption that a correct SW counter there are several kinds of eagle counters- considered used in star wars due to the brass showing though brass one screw, large eagle no words 4 and 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers brass 2 screw eagle with hengstler words imprinted 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers brass one screw eagle with hengstler words imprinted 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers Large eagle Eagle with words considered not used because the front connection and the counter itself have no brass steel eagle with black connection box 1 screw with words imprinted white numbers with black background numbers w 2 digits yellow background steel eagle with black connection box 2 screw with words imprinted white numbers with black background numbers w 2 digits yellow background shown is the black with white numbers

interesting paul.. many of us have known that the original bubble lens was a single part. you can even watch AA form one on the original mold. sorry to bring that up... but he does have that... and he made the TIE helmet shown in the photo. shown in the video series is a black acrylic lens being formed... but it's nice to see the EFX lid showing the green. lenses were black,. green and yellow in the lens portions of SW helmets... the yellow being xwing/ywing pilot helmets in the faceted design.

you are the man... it's your call... I just figured it would make the chart complete. as it stands there might be some confusion about the origins? I think this is a great idea... and I'd be willing to add some photos.. but I'd have to get permissions and such... good work!

the most accurate for a brass counter is 6 black digits. the counter you show is a steel one with a plastic connection box and those were not used in star wars it's just like the smooth sterlings.. those were not used in the films.. and shaver wires with ton's of curly thick wires. I like to compare this type of thing to the FX helmet... heheeeee! bumpy sterlng, real bolt colors. inner rear spring counter with 4 loop wires. eagle counter with black digits and a brass front connection box. if you want to replicate the firing models. if you want to replicate a resin cast background stunt blaster you will need to have no rear cocking channel, a solid black counter with no wires and no front pins. and no inner details at all. the bapty demils are with solid aluminum rear channels no trigger, a strip of steel for a guard no counter and no wires. it all depends upon what type you're making

actually the yellow numbers are not on most brass eagle counters. the yellow numbers are mostly on the aluminum counters that are not as rare. if you want the most accurate you should go for 6 black digits.

the screws are so small you won't believe it. much smaller than most 'replicas' only andy and a few others have made the correct bolt/nut sizes. it's measured in 10ths of an inch... not MM andy;s power cells have smaller screw/nut combinations but this is what I have and andy's wonderful work!

I get them from RC car supply stores they are really freakin small man! I'll post the size when I get home. I'm helping my 85 year old father. back in the shop in 3 days... I hope.

can you add the data at the top of the tree? showing Liz moore, brian muir and then elstree plasterers?

see the scale? where did you get 4mm? also see how the center caps are all stacked? and were not assembled with shims? and I think your work is fine... but just like being a DO... the devil is in the details. also the clip offset is created by a notch on the side of the clip, which allows the clip to seat into the magazine well... when I get home in 3 days I'll be able to provide photos and comparisons and show the source from RC car suppliers.

it's because I have done research on the power cells with andy. I have a set of his replicas... and I also have sets of screws from RC race cars that are closer to the correct size

screws are too large... I'll send the correct ones when I send the clip end and lock. please fill the dimple in... that is not supposed to be there. it's on both sides. top and bottom. make sure the arrow points to the front. and the slight curve you did with the iron also goes on the front.

the end clip IS on backwards in THIS PHOTO

has the cod been cut or shortened? raise the belt just a tad. also you're going to need to replace the helmet as FX/AM style lids won't be approved. recomend scootch on here. I need to see the armor from the sides and back too.. because you might need to replace the chest and back plates as well... as the AM backplate has also been removed from base acceptance. it looks like this is the old AM sculpt? you will need to move the drop boxes in to the edge of the belt and might want to make some small adjustments to the thighs.

THANKS ERIC for a job well done! my hat goes off to you! and for mathias!

when I posted on the TM topic at hand I had just had a conversation with TM directly about the origins of TM armor. he stated that he gathered as many armors as he could get his hands on. took measurements and HAND SCULPTED from there. and I think we should move all TM recast posts, even this one in a breakout thread. in no way TM said did he ever cast a mold. but he also said that it would be impossible to get the design right without using as many armors as possible. he used more than just the TE as a visual guide. he used many different source armors to produce a hand sculpt. "stay on target" "I can only hold em' off for a few seconds!" "loosen up!"

photos updated. see how the pattern is a series of diamond shapes pressed in? would be almost impossible to get that without making a casting of the real thing.

thats the thing about armor origins threads... we always have this kind of debate. it goes with the territory, not that it matters much... for a fact the process of sculpting itself goes though different iterations. I for one looked very closely at the TM sculpts a long time ago... and the first thing I notice about TM is that he has constantly refined his shapes... when you compare a 2009 TM to a 2013-14 TM there are changes in the thighs and shins most of all... after talking at length with TM today he mentions that he used as many armor parts he could find as visual guides to make his sculpts... while not recasting them, he did take measurements, and base his designs upon those sources. in fact he also mentioned that he's remaking all of his armor sculpts as a result of being in the shop over at RS and has taken ton's of photos and measurements to re-create his sculptures and adding back in the waves... and the chips and the warped nature of the parts. he likes he bumpy format and wants to create the worn look that ANH armor has. the fact is... when you use TE as a base... you have to undo the fixes that MG did... and you have to use photos of original armor to acomplish that... so now with RS as a basis TM is planning to get ever better... all while avoiding the recast process. I've been wanting to see a tree like this a long time... and it's like a pile of firewood for some.. and a source of fruit for others.

forget the drama and hug your mama.

just sand off the pattern until it's only at the top of the front ridge. and you're gold. the rear of the sight has the pattern ending on a horizontal line across the back... so it does not go all the way down in the front.. and ends on the back along a horizontal plane. as soon as I have more natural light... I will try to capture the front sight I have from the early 60's which is the accurate year for bapty props e-11's the knurl pattern only extends about 1/4" below the vertical on the front. the rear is much more interesting! photo that I will add a red line for this side I had trouble capturing the details with my camera... so I did the next best thing. I added a red line to your photo showing where the pattern starts at the front of the sight... then I added a blue line showing where the pattern ends on the rear of the sight.

...

the front sight details on the original L2A3 show a much different shape than a screwdriver head.. or a nail shaped. there should be a taper at the wide base... and a square head.

my phone won't take photos... and my camera is missing? crap. asap photos of the original sterling front sight. heres a photo showing that the original does not have the pattern all the way down and here's a BAD PHOTO showing BAD crinkle paint on a late model smg DON"T USE THIS!

what a great set of reference photos.. shows the differences in your builds... lots of little details... thanks for sharing!

that is why they list it as GF/FX?