TK bondservnt

mathias... There are lot's of sellers who are going to have to start "making new ones" my thread content is important to me. so the purpose of making locked sales threads is to cut down on server space used? but we have to make "new topics?" would not the making of a new topic be a bias against the sellers who don't stay on the FISD all the time? the pinned topics surely won't be archived? right? so this is a bias against troopers... this does not help the forum, it actually increases the load. this does not help troopers because important threads will be archived, and we'll LOSE RESOURCES. let's say I need a part... but the seller's thread is archived... and the seller does not even know? this only makes the FISD HARDER TO USE. why is this being done? we're going to lose a lot of important information with this. so a thread is perma locked when this happens? I have threads from 2010 and I don't want to lose the thread dates, and content.

how do we manage our locked sales threads? we can't unlock them ourselves? how is a trooper going to unlock an archived sales thread?

heres a good rule of thumb

then you use accurate gaffers tape to fix it!

ding ding... we have a winner! nice thread...

steve has done an excellent job on the castings. ah... one less thing for me to do!

:smiley-sw013:

remove the divot on the magazine body. when a full sized mag is 'properly' cut down, as the doopy mag shows that it's not cut down properly by the missing clipclock assembly and the divot. the divot in the end of the body of the mag keeps rounds from binding at the end of a 32 round mag.

measure number height by having someone put a caliper on it. use photos of real sterling bolts to sequence and align use an engravging service to make a thin metal strip. use a dremel to dig a layin for the strip. and fill.

love this mod!

heat does not work well with resin you could just go to an engraver and get him to run you off a strip.

novus polish. e-6000 is standard glue. photos?

I'm building a really weird DVH based kit... will be an ESB promo greeblie!

when you watch the film you can see it. looks like he found one of the only screenshots where it's present. and I'm figuring that it must have come from how the part was taken off the mold when hot.

this is one of the best builds I've seen yet! the rear point could be done very easy with just gentle heat and a simple pull with a stick. after looking at the ear mod situation I can see that all those RC models really helped a lot to prepare you for the entire build! have fun!! you're doing the best work in the legion at this point!

accuracy requires the washers. I was going to point this out... but paul beat me to it. I'm with troopermaster on this and I'll use a chicago screw and a washer on the outside from now on. it's not about the thickness... it's about looking screen accurate.. to me... that is the whole point of making a costume.

gotta remember there gaz... even the firing guns were painted flat black... perhaps you're going for a different approach. sure... you can have it any way you want it to be... the original sterling parts you're using as a paint guide were not used in star wars. all the guns were hit with flat black... the whole 'original sterling' paint situation is fun.... I'm sure! personally myself I like the whole situation where people get to choose... but I like the whole blend in effect given to them where they all were well painted. brass showing though, and paint chipping was not really seen in the films even with george's penchant for wear and tear... when I look at the stormtrooper lineup, and the closeups on the tantive iv I see well painted flat black e-11 blasters. it's true... I've done some weathered ones... but now I lean more towards the whole blend in effect. if it were me, I'd brush on the flat black on the masked parts. and if you're going for a 'real sterling' look then you're going to want a gunmetal blued effect on the magazine, with a black tint... as the original magazines have a slight blue hue under the black partially translucent gunblack stain. the magazine well and trigger group sleeve are really a greyblack like on the 'original' finish. it's gonna be a gaz style all the way with this one! BTW that crinkle finish style looks spot on! just a matte coat away from real! (I would never thin out the case deflector or the front standoff on a resin blaster.)

I'm with you on this! some troopers even have stuff spilled on the armor in the film... looks tan... like some kind of coolant!

nice duct tape on the TK plastic!

in the bottom photo it sure looks like white paint?

yeah... now I see the contour... it is a very large pop rivet. never said the belt was leather?

sorry mathias I just didn't have enough time to answer fully... now I've spent the 15 minutes I needed to share the full scope. you can even see the potential of the bottom snap back painted white, and the upper one left raw.

here ya go! larger than the average rivet we use. you could actually use a snap back. since they look much larger than a pop rivet? looks like a newey snap back to me? also note how the holster is thin, and made of a much floppy leather... not 6oz. it's flat. hero holster with black straps. blaster is not a bapty either... it's a 70's police carbine. with modern crinkle paint. you can see the real trigger group. http://www.originalprop.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/luke-skywalker-star-wars-chronicles-promo-stormtrooper-blaster-alt.jpg

these are all valid points. very well documented there germain! the cheek tubes on the original helmets are that way... it's just another sign that the AP helmet comes from an original source! the fitting on the ears, can be done by properly trimming the ears so that they fit correctly. the shape will change under the pressure from the screws... so just setting the ears on and looking is not the same as screwing them down. do not fit the ears and test the fitting without putting the helmet together exactly on the marked holes. if you change the shape of the cheeks you're going to fail! the cap N back only needs to be pointed on the lower edge, the upper center does not really need a point. the ears need a complete resculpt. and need to be re-formed.

photo updated. I'd say your teeth cut marks are a little too shallow... look at the depth of each tooth.... the original helmet has a lot less material left on each... compared to your ref marks.. keep up the good work! did you use a press from the outside while using the iron?