TK bondservnt

yeah... the ones I use are a tad large! thanks for the info andy!

when you join the uk garrison they will advise you on their blaster policy. don't ever troop alone in the UK.

you don't need paypal to pay for items on trooperbay... you simply can pay with a debit or credit card with paypal.

I would cut the bottom of the shins before cutting the thighs... most shorter people are actually the shin portion of the body. after taking some length off the shins... then consider the thighs. you don't want large gaps. and you should rotate the thighs outwards on your leg. photos really would help.

also... did you ever notice that the logo on the doopy do counter is not an eagle? it's called the H logo 819 counter.. model 400... but a later year design... post war. not used in star wars.

it's not a sale location.. never will be... just a info depot. soon it's going to have more data.

that's rob's favorite pastime on the FISD... if you look at his content... I'd bet over 50% are flames.

rob why must you snipe at people and not explain yourself? I guess you just have a pint and get all chuffed... where is the basis for your post? "drama alert- drama alert" all Tk's to their stations.

look up scootch.. he has a great kit.

easy pass! Only suggestions is to replace the wires on the e-11 to a more correct format. (yeah... I'm a blaster nut) drop box backs look thick, and could have had a rivet cap showing. another centurion level build... for the win!~

this is a great representation of the shape of the lens on the doopy part... yet the lens might be just a tad smaller in size and it actually is quite flat. and the lens fits inside the rear cap and has a really flat profile. the large curve you have (and I must say looks great!) represents the doopy do "recast tell" design where he makes certain parts larger or out of place from an original part. the doopy changes the screw locations on the body and the size of the rear lens as tells.

winner winner chicken dinner! yellow numbers... WAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!

that's really not bad lookin! tubestripe location and hovi color notwithstanding!

I love jokin around... heheheeee

it is a fact that the ridges are not completely covered on screen used armor. and if you have AP or TE derived armor ATA does have ridges on the biceps forrearms. look at the LFL armor photos again. shin front shows ridges seen. thigh front showing ridges seen the ridge tapers from top to bottom. no ridges on bicep but with TE derived armor i.e. AP ATA TE TE2 you need to make sure that if you cut them off they will still fit your arms... the original armor was not made to fit larger people. no apparent ridges on forearms, but the base size in diameter for a TE based forearm is less than 11" so if your forearms are larger than 10.5" then if you cut off all the ridge on the TE based arm.. your arm won't fit.

you might want to include photos and show your fitting on your legs... it will give us better ideas on how to advise. germain is simply giving generalized suggestions... perhaps you might want a more detailed answer? photos really helps us to give the best advice... especially when making arms and legs.

this is why I use the hand held method on my .90 abs. if you leave the thinner abs in an oven like that. it will melt down to a puddle. each person's armor is different... and the formed armor is a different thickness on different parts. which changes it's point of viscosity!

actually troopermaster says that some ridge showing is fine... or no ridge. it's a judgement call on your part. if you look at troopermaster's most recent build on facebook you can get his assembly method really well. our debates on the topic are just that... simple discussions.

I think I'm going to be SICK! ok... who puts the thigh belt pack on the wrong side on the armor... and then takes a photo with it on the correct side? there is a disconnect from the brain... but most likely it's at the base of his neck?

lovin' this!

ESB only from the looks of them? also he's posting a sales thread as his first post and does not have enough posts to put the sales thread in the PX.?

what a piece of junk! I'll bet she won't go .5 past lightspeed! ----------

I have written an entire blaster book called the e-11 databank.... soon I'll populate it with ton's more information. I have photos of the bapty stuff... london prop store stuff... original sterling designs showing the smooth versions vs the bumpy ones... and I have photos planned for all the counters listed above. in fact I still have 3 in my collection that illustrate the plastic connection box, and the eagle with words in brass and the large eagle brass. soon I'm going to have molds made of all 3 different types. I also have 2 types of M38 scopes to cast up as well. http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster

I personally would never do it this way... too risky. my 02 cents

I use a gas stovetop and hold the plastic in my hand. I wave the part very quickly over the stove, and the entire part does not have to be heated... I use my bare hands. because if the plastic gets hot enough not to handle then you've gotten it WAY TO HOT! also... I just don't see the reason why the main belt on armor EVER needs heat. you can simply bend the main armor belt carefully with NO HEAT heck man... you don't even need to heat up the thigh belt? the ONLY part that I use heat on... and very light heat at that is the rear 1/3 of the shoulder straps I simply bend them by hand... into kind of a J shape... this way the fronts are flat. ABS is fine in how the smaller parts are affected by simply bending with your hands... the larger square parts of the thigh belt and the main belt are easy bent near the ends of each square. try it! you'll see that the whole heat concept can be overkill.