TK bondservnt

you can find that in photos of the EFX hero lid ----------

my crayon tip lives on! simply cover it with clear.. helps keep in place can't wait to see this puppy assembled!

The hero frown requires more than just doing what you've done to the 4th tooth, but if I were the DO I'd pass you in an instant. the biceps are 'mis-aligned on the originals, and if you look at the LFL photos that's your best guide. Personally I would not add a return where there is not one? but to each his own! you've done a fine job on the helmet.. but there are a few more differences to a hero lid, like the point at the center of the cap n back. so I say yes on the lid, but no on the bicep!

if you look at screen used armor, actually it's not just a rivet that holds the holster to the belt.

I like the ROTJ scope, and the standoffs on the rail, and the rivet at the bottom of the bullnose.

Here's a couple of gem photos from the LFL archives I found. some DL 44 love here! SOURCE

what an awesome thread andy! and thanks striker! great minds help out in the most facinating ways.

I see watch case lenses! woot!

that's a really wide set o' thighs there brother! woo!

Nice kit! Lowering the bro is not the only way to make a helmet larger... actually just drilling out the holes on the lid you get a perfect setting... so follow those exactly! Make sure you don't drill out the ears larger than the holes, don't countersink em. otherwise your screws will pull though and damage the plastic. just keep the ears with about 1/16" extra plastic at the center rear of the cap, and keep the back thicker than the trim lines. The fronts of the ears should curve towards the cheek near the cap front center. To make the helmet larger at the bottom you can cut the front of the bottom of the helmet in the center and stop near the front place near the ears. remember that you must Twist the helmet on the side and twist to the center when you place it on your head. if you'd like detailed photos for ear fitting, and eye cutting I can provide those. if you want, you can use flat tin snips to cut out the lines... I use flat large snips... not bullnose. email me [email protected] for more details.

I'm trying to figure out how to make scope replicas of the internal parts... does anyone know how they are made inside? the mirror configuration sure would be fun to see... or the lens system.

hey striker... have you ever considered making a denix kit add on set of greeblies for the greedo killer/esb han/esb luke and then the standard DL 44? it would be really really cool for me to have a set like that to add to a metal denix. then I can use a swaping scope rail design to move my m19 scope from e-11 to DL 44

inner front barrel, larger spring area at the rear... from the looks of it, the pipe builds might be easier to make up! this is a great build!

is that the standard configuration for the ESB scope rail?

hyperfirms are not really as accurate as we might want them to be. sure... they are nice... but they are not as nice as they could be? I carry the DLT 19 hyperfirm, and I have an ROTJ hyperfirm... but they are not the end of all replicas. they are made to be rubber stunt versions. at the end of the day the goal is really up to the wearer... and how far you want to go with your armor, and blasters is really up to you. I like blasters with holes in them showing interior parts... springs, bolts, screws.. hollow sections. a solid block of rubber is cool for throwing on the ground. but a full replica is much more of a personal satisfaction. not that I don't like hyperfirms... I have 2 of them. but I like my steel and real scope versions much more. there's nothing like having the original WW2 parts on a prop replica.

Centurion simply requires a quality sterling base gun with ALL the proper elements present. The dlt 19 can be carried from base level to Centurion. BEST to get a fully built e-11 with all the needed extra details, such as the extended bolt power cells accurate clip end and lock details. charging handle and flat bayonet area. PM me for more details! I HAVE parts ready!

mr no stripes! as seen on screen!

some even take the little corners at a 45... but I always taper my strips to fit the part I've covered... biceps, elbows... even some do little angles on the front top of the thighs and fronts of the shins.

I don't like it. no matter how much it costs? far too much wrong with the details and shapes... best just to use as a child's toy.

I tried my best to follow a different rendering than the one shown above... but I will be making mine look a little more like the one shown above, as I work to complete the armor. some adjustments need to be made as I move my shop around. I brushed my paint on by hand taking care to use a pattern I felt closely resembles the original scratches. doing the character in a "clean" style did not appeal to me as much as making it look more worn.

x acto works. also can use novus polish. by reverse masking. of course you can always look at this referance photo if you look closely you should follow this see how I used a rough line? to match the helmet shown? it's better looking compared to the game with this type IMHO.

no doubt!

I am just making a joke out of how steve is in front of me in so many ways. the intention on my part was to do everything steve has done on this build. so it's like robin looking at batman... I'm robin, and he's batman. I was intending of doing all the aspects he has already done with the clip. and I was considering going farther. we'll see... 10 loops for the real thing... but who cares!

WTF? holy batman! hold on robin... it looks like you're going to hurl? it's ok batman.. I'm good... where is the joker? he's in prison... just look at this blaster thread while I make dinner.

the real stormtrooper blaster is painted with several finishes. first of all the main tube is bumpy to reduce reflections. the magazine well is smooth, as is the mag. the front tip is smooth, the rear end cap is smooth. this replicates the movie style finish. the grips are gloss black on the plastic portion, but the trigger group is smooth and has gunmetal and steel details on it. the weapons in the actual film have no weathering on them at all... look here