TK bondservnt

we wanna see!

I counted the number of ribs on Han Solo's armor. using that as a guide I glued them down in front with e-6000. the rear of the strap I fix 2 different ways. 1. back strap velcro to back plates. holds them completely down for ESB style. 2. I remove the velcro and put elastic white webbing over a few ribs in back for ANH style. you should also try to attach each bell together with a long strap behind your neck. under the bib/neckseal. one long strap with 2 snaps for the shoulder straps. I glued the strap to the shoulder bell. this keeps your shoulder bells tight to the neck, and attached to the shoulder straps. the shoulder bells are kept forward by having them attached towards the front of the armor. and the bicep armor is attached to keep the bell forward by putting forward twisting pressure from the bicep armor. the bicep armor and shoulder bells are attached in 2 locations. 1. the inside of the bicep to the inside of the shoulder bell. 2. the outside of the bicep armor across the bottom of the shoulder bell. ( Han Solo hook is made from "white duct tape" on my bells. ) (( will upgrade to ABS hooks in a few more days. )) finally the whole arm is kept in place by attaching the forearms to the bicep armor at the correct location. this keeps the arms completely angled right.

I think that this hobby should be an open forum. no hidden "trooper" secrets. everything should always be put out into the light of day. help us all out. post the information you have. if it upsets someone... so be it.

Shropt asked me: Sent june 8, 05:55 AM Do you have a tutorial or photos of your shoulder strap method? I'm currently using velcro and it just sucks. My response: if you attach them at the front, and use velcro across the bottom and attach them to the elastic that holds your armor together. like a sandwich. the velcro on the bottom across the whole shoulder strap. velcro across the top of your elastic. the elastic should have snaps for the chest plate, and the back plate. the elastic should also have snaps for your shoulder bells. --------- I used a strap of holster leather for my shoulder bells. many people should also consider putting a strap from bell to bell across their back of neck. keeps them seated and tight. hope this helps out.

on the photo above tagged Exhibit A: the tour suit.

those photos clearly show webbing and ABS for the shoulder straps. I posted about this before. all the photos from star wars helmets show webbing and plastic shoulder straps. the webbing is riveted to the front and velcro in the back. paul is exactly correct about the difference between the screen used and the tour suit.

sand or trim

thanks mark. your friend andy sure sent a quality scope and hengstler... I'm almost ready to shoot my fan film. all I need is a TKC and a TX and an ROTJ and I'll be done building my 7bby armors for my episode III.5 AP armor is the best!

I love the AP model. can fit short or tall. says it all.

only couple things I can see is the rear sight is a little too pointed. the front sight actually has knurling on the real ones. nice attention to detail on the mag clip end! with those resin parts that build looks pretty easy to do!

this community protects it's members to a certain extent. your post is a great example. thanks for the information.

I simply use a one way mirror film from an auto shop. one layer of original film and one layer of mirror film. done.

to correct a hovie tip the best way is to mill a larger hole and then put a large washer on the inside. since the hole is larger, you can position the hovi where ever you need it to be. and tighten down the washer and nut and you're golden.

MRCE hovies have dense screens more like a ROTJ they also have gaps and are made in 2 sections. they look much better when replaced with a stomper or a keith tip. my 2 cents.

helmet the ear mod, and hovi mod for the mrce. as well as lenses. frown gap and repaint/sticker. and FX probably needs side gaps, thermal det mod belt to canvas. did I miss anything?

---------- starting from left to right: MRCE hero 3 bump ears - AP Stunt build - ATA build for tech151 - ESB AP I built this helmet in a single 4 hour session. ----------- special thanks goes out to keith for his awesome hovi mix. also I must say that without mike's excellent tutorials I never would have been able to really build up these lids without his excellent guidance. I have built 4 helmets now out of the 3 that I own. The differences in the build to note: tubestripes applied a little off to accentuate the size in tube. hovie tips installed a little wonky to simulate a "quick build" brow trim cut shorter in front of the traps. frown cut out 4 teeth per side and painted to the lips. I have chinstraps installed, and now all I need to do is put my fan velcro and star foam in. my fan system and upcoming sound system all are modular to fit inside any helmet I plan to troop with. everything just velcro's in and out.

I just built my new AP stunt lid in a single day! mike's tutorials and this being my 4th build it went really fast! just stopping by to show some AP props...

no screws. snap plates glued to the inside.

take a look at some screen shots and make your best trial fit?

looks like they have one 14 and some 10.5 left in stock

I use score and snap, smooth and quick. sand with 60 grit and that is also fast. done.

in the end it's all a personal choice. that's the freedom of costuming, just cover the needed details and your golden.

The button next to off is the magazine end/spring release. it allows the removal of the magazine cap. off is the indicator for which direction the end cap slides. A S D on the selector switch is for AUTO SAFE and SINGLE SHOT modes on the SMG. the grip says FREE and LOCK for the bolt that threads the grips on. if you moved the bolt to the free position you can start the field stripping process to remove the grips, and trigger assemblies. to be as accurate as possible you should not modify any of the wording/engraving on the body of the weapon.

a photothread would be very much appreciated!

also of note is the AB plate needs to be a lot higher up on your torso. this will allow for the chest plate to sit correctly. you usually will have a lot of tension on the AB plate and butt plates if your using suspenders then you should shorten them a bit. never heard of PT armor before... looks pretty good.