TK bondservnt

I always thought that for sale items had to be constructed already? doing a potential run via a deposit and signup list seems to attract troopers who :"think" they are going to have the money... I would make them, then sell them.

well, I owe it to this detachment to have the scope itself, so passing along the solution to the problem was very fun to grab the scope base off my desk and snap a photo.

yeah. there is a spring on one side. decompress the bar and release the spring. then you will have a metal clip to remove with pliars. then you will be able to get to the bottom of the scope and release both screws. save the screws for your scope rail. they fit perfectly. --------- you move the bar on the spring at the red arrow, and the assembly will swivel allowing the base screws to be removed along the blue arrow. when you remove the pressure from the spring assembly, you will have to remove the cotter pin holding the spring on one end. remove the spring assembly and the mount will swivel.

I really need a good source for pouches... that's an important part of the look.

probably hacked. most likely needs a mysql import

pretty easy to paint em white on the inside again? I'd go with keith. his are the best. TM when he makes helmets, a keith tip is on there...

great looking suit! I'm right behind you!~ shin plates look wonky? I had a lot more extra work to pass... glad to hear that you've got it sorted!

paint is liquid. if you get it to make a shiny surface while you're painting then it will cure that way. sanding and painting multiple coats is usually the ticket. every time I paint there is some flaw that needs to be sanded out. wet sanding the paint is always the process you'll need to use. the paint has to cure completely before you sand it, or it will ball up. I tack with warm water and a light cloth, and then give my paint a quick rubdown with rubbing alcohol very lightly to take off all sanding dusts. before painting I let the part sit for 24 hours. I wait a week between painting sessions, of 2 coats at a time. I paint the parts laying on a flat surface to minimise runs. I've been painting when it's about 75-80d and then I let the paint tack up. then I bring it inside the house which brings it down to 70 and let the parts sit in air conditioning. I have a skylight in my kitchen so the sunlight really helps the next morning to solidify the surface. the paint is still soft after 3 days, so I just handle it carefully.

squid coffee salesmen.

Al has a really nice kit!

you both look just fine together. ROTJ soles can be black or white as well... white soled boots need to have a thicker sole than a regular TK boot. you don't need to worry about your weight and height... it's looking just fine from here...

well, the type of resin that I've cast my blank is very very strong. I'm going to keep the part solid and just run wires down the resin tube for the lights, sound, and smoke. the thing is that you're going to have to have some weight to the part to balance out the metal parts. and having it a solid block of resin, with batteries and lights makes it totally a non gun. I'm going to cut off the back parts of the blank and use the recoil spring, bolt and cocking handle like an original weapon. this area most likely will have a metal pipe section to properly cover the inside thickness near the cocking handle.

more more more!

nice work!

nice job of building. only thing I can say is that there are no 'rivets' on the sterling SMG. those points where you put rivets are actually not sculpted. they are copies of the way the gun actually looks. each of those rivet points are actually 'pin set points'. each area has a pin press fit into the assembly and the press fit action puts the circle depression around the pin. at the join for the shoulder cap front, the rear sight, and folding stock... all are set pins. also I think that it's better to have a "parkerized" style finish to a blaster paint job. overall this is a great example of a better version! I'd troop with this over the hasbro in a second! are we going to see any electronics in that bad boy?

the parts kits available on that website are actual machine guns that were being rebuilt. you'd have to have a permit for a class 3 machine gun, you would not be able to troop with it. blastmaster provided me with the idea that you can take a resin blaster copy and just put all the metal parts on it from the APEX kit. this makes it a replica non gun because it's mounted on a plastic toy. you usually would have to carry an orange tip to insert into the barrel end for events that are sticky about toy guns.

sterling parts to the UK no problem.

baby powder leaves a mark. proper prep would be to use a common houshold degreaser. let soak immersed for about 5 minutes. rinse and dry. your finger oils have just been removed along with mould release. painting with a primer matched to your paint is very important. different types of paint need different primers. applying paint in the correct temperature and humidity conditions is also very important. some people, when paint is cured, apply rubbing compound and polish the paint. then the proper clear automotive wax usually works well. leaving paint in the raw and scratching it before it cures will always take paint off. you need to let it completely cure. primer and paint don't cure as soon as they are dry.

I think that the key here is not to have more seams visible. one at the top of the canvas, and one at the bottom for seams. if you can see it, then it should not be there? I use paul's suggestion for mounting my canvas to the armor belt by using chicago screws/ screw posts to mount them together. the drop boxes also are attached the same way, with the same exact points on each side. so the screw post is holding the canvas belt, the drop box strap, and the armor plastic belt. I'm even considering using longer screw posts on each side and drill through the AB plate at the proper locations to help hold the sides together while letting everything come apart for washing, packing ect. this way I have 3 canvas belts for each type- hero stunt and ESB

I just ordered a black pauldron for my HWT. pauldrons.com was my choice. not a bad reproduction, not bad at all.

I'm in the middle of a sterling demill and I thought AL did such a fine job on this I copied his design so perfectly you won't be able to tell the difference between his and mine. only AL knows the secret! when I get them finished up I'll show photos here!

you can see them on most resin copies from the outside. the locking pins are actually machined pins set into holes in the stock bar and tack welded. for anyone attempting a working folding stock these details are a must.

the end cap: I will be doing a post about that assembly tonight. but the details of the assembly are that the entire rear cap moves forward riding on the recoil spring. the stock locking pins slide the cap forward using pressure. it takes quite a bit of force to engage the system. rear end cap is locked into place or allowed to move by pressing the rear cap latch firmly and allowing the spring under the cap latch to engage the holes in the bottom of the end cap. another complex part of the sterling@!

that is exactly what I'm gonna do trooper... we all need a helping hand to get the best accuracy we can.

Well troopers it's time to look closely at the inner workings of the folding stock. far different than what you might expect when looking at plans and such on the web. this complex part alone, before I owned it, was very detailed. now what I have read about, in some descriptions I knew it had somthing inside it that was missing from all the "replica" parts out there. making your own functioning folding stock that locks into it's positions could be done, but without having the part in it's original form makes it a job of guesswork. nowhere have I seen accurate plans for this. the locking pins that fit into the rear cap/d ring mount. detail showing pin locations, bend guide and pin mount for stock bar. detail showing stock front lock slider. shoulder cap slightly out of it's detent lock. the detents match grooves in the bar. another shot showing shoulder cap hinged and detent grooves shows bottom of stock bar, with holes and a curved area in the mid point between two holes detail showing stock bar floating. this assembly locks into the spring plate and cutouts on shouldercap detail showing locking springplate locking springplate with guides for stock bar. bar about to click into shouldercap 1 bar about to click into shouldercap 2 bar clicked into shouldercap another angle of springplate stock in open locked position detail of sliding front lock detail showing plunger hinge sliding front lock front lock sliding 1 front lock sliding 2 front lock sliding 3