TK bondservnt

just imagine some guy trying to troop in this outfit and we not notice him !! we should always have a thread like this for any troopers. lost and FOUND. this group of people is the best in the galaxy.

well george obviously has shown that accuracy is somthing we're headed for in the future. it's like watching the don post come out.. and then watching the rubies come out. we have always seen the concept "make it affordable, and easy to manufacture." if LFL was officially contacted by members of this legion, and we have seen accuracy improve in the past. perhaps the reason why the TK and other armor projects have taken lucasfilm so long... is that they would want to go the other direction and produce ALL the armors, in all their film related variations. after looking at the soft clothing that is already available, I can only hope that tradition will follow. they know how complex and time consuming this process is. and how prone it can be to failure. I believe that's why injection was traded for vac forming in the MRCE. most likely it's about quality control, price and accuracy in a matrix. when the live action series comes out it's all about mandos and tk's and clones. that's the future we're headed for.

I'm making holster kits, so you can mod details... anrev does a great job as well! just a little heads up. pretty soon I'm going to have blasters up and running, as soon as I get more original parts to work from.

sheesh... we all need to go Stargate SG1... I think everyone will want to copy T'ilk. I've got the original movie used stargate? anyone wannta ride?

the best way to look at painting and any other type is to look at a photo of a blaster from the film and copy that look. the original sterlings, scopes, and other parts all have slightly different finishes. if you understand all the original colors of the parts before they were painted, then you can age the parts correctly.

I'll do the AP measurements photos. it's my duty!

I guess I'd like to make it very clear paul (troopermaster), and mark (AP), I value, praise and admire both of your kits. and I can say AGAIN... I have learned quite a lot from you paul... and I admire you for the details you're putting BACK into the armor from an ANH perspective. maybe you might want to realize that I have changed my opinion quite a bit since this thread started. and thanks goes out to AP for helping us to clear up the lineage questions.

my 'misinformation' is why I started this thread. to become more educated about armor. I must say that "cleaning up a mould" would not make it smaller. material can be added or taken away from a mould easially enough. after looking closely at armor in general I don't even think that AP armor itself is close to the original at all. the details in the biceps, and thighs lead me to believe that the old GF moulds were not cast from the source we all think they were created from. I've already accepted your idea that it's a recast 4th gen. I dont debate that. ----------- this thread is all about me accepting your statements about casting, and recasting. and I have already praised you for re-creating a lot of the 'lost details' in armor paul... so I have learned a lot. and I'm sure other troopers might learn from this as well...

The size difference is because of my own body. Since the AP is for smaller people, ""like the originals...** "" I needed a little shorter thigh, and larger arms, and smaller shins for my body type. the curves I'm seeing in TM armor legs and thighs just seem a little deep. everything else looks really good. the bicep, arms, and other parts look really good on the TM kit. after looking closely at the biceps alone I really wonder what the heck GF was getting his stuff from in the first place. ** as I've been informed by troopers on the web

I drilled a slot to allow the faceplate to be shifted a bit. the upper hole when given a horizontal slot allows the faceplate to rotate and gives a little difference in eye height. the bottoms of the ear points needed a lot of torque to line up close. it's a great kit!

I used a reversable belt, an e-11 with a removable hengstler, handplates and buckets. and a removable set of holsters- for my dual EIB. would it be possible to go 3 EIB with 2 ANH versions both stunt and hero, and esb? I was thinking I'd go EIB ANH stunt to go along with my hero version. it would have another belt, holster and helmet and handplates. what say the bosses? I already have my stunt AP helmet shipping on friday! (that makes 3 buckets and counting!)

you could get a lid and have it assembled by a member here, or by the maker?

my EIB photos all have this UV type of car wax: 'turtle wax 2001' super protectant- with sun stop. rubber, vinyl, plastic, leather. ---------

I put a UV wax over the top of my armor. no yellowing.

On my ESB EIB application you can see the color and shine match is pretty close between TM esb handplates and my AP armor. I was really surprised at just how much different capped is in depth and shine quality. I'm sure you wouldn't be disapointed! just seeing this thread makes me want to buy a TM helmet just to see the subtle differences! and after looking at just how wonky an SDS lid can be... I'm not sure I'd want an SDS in my collection. (maybe it will eventually!)

does it have this profile?

use a wireless mic as the output for the blaster and you've got the loudest blaster in the garrison.

I've been wanting to go "Force Sensitive" for a long time now... can you provide the best sources for a hilt and parts to : " I see that you've constructed another lightsabre, you're skills are complete. " make a trooper happy?

I guess I'll have to do the best I can to attempt this! Looks like a fun blaster to try out!

i have em both. ap is smaller.

use aluminized resin for making vacc form molds. you just use this instead of plaster. backed up with wood. if I were forming the back of the helmet I'd make a place to cut the helmet off. back the buck with aluminum. you know? a strip behind where you plan to demould when you watch AAinsworth's dvd's on making the helmets he cuts the cap n back off the mould with a box cutter. this allows for the undercut to be deeper. his forming machine actually pushes the buck UP into the plastic after he has blown a bubble raising the plastic. he then uses a blower to help demould the part. blowing out through the buck's forming holes. each buck actually has small holes to help with the pull. and then those same holes help demould.

those cracks look quite repairable to me?

I'm sure that if you sold the armor, it would still sell quick! TM has quite a stellar reputation around here... I'm sure that you'll find a way to work it out@!

an even better way is to compare the edges of screen captured photos from the film look you're going for. some of the "return" edges are not 90 degrees. in some cases on the chest there is only a slight edge to it, think along the sides of the upper chest plate. sandtroopers have less return on some parts than on other armors. the most noticeable area for the lack of a return edge would be the chest plate bottom return. but thats only sandies.

in some photos it looks like the fasteners are the backs of a 3/8" silver snap. rivet or snap? can we post detailed caps in the CRL?