TK bondservnt

hey paul, ever considered mixing in acrylic paint into the latex and then pour it into the mould? or are you just going SA and painting the latex? I wouldn't think that plasti dip would work.

those resin guns show chips on the t tracks whith resin showing not steel. also those guns are recasts. the london U chaanel gun WAS NOT USED on set. it was created after the films by bapty but never in a star wars film

it's really nice to have a strong woman among the ranks. beauty and power arrive in small packages! you're a costumer that's for sure! ton's of work and great attention to detail on all your massive versions of many many different characters in several different genres of costumes. keep that big smile bright! and keep your eye keen on the target...

I have blasters ready to make with his parts

and more close up even the parapistol mag is too long. I'm going with my first stated concept that the mags were cut down in house. less cost in insurance and armoror costs with less potential rounds in the mag. I have seen more than one shot come out of a blaster on set. I believe that they must have had at least 5-9 rounds for firing smg's in the film.

I have 2 tango D fett kits for the esb promo/snowtrooper e-11

when I cut down my plate it fit fine. can you please explain your terms here? we need more clear explanation. I have photos of the cut down mag and the full mag let me get time to upload them. I believe that magazine lengths vary according to the weapon's status. stunt; wood block or resin plug background resin cast hero firing blanks some troopers in background shots had hero blasters depending upon shot.

if you want confirmation please post photos of your armor and we'll help. return edges come from a close examination of the original screen shots.

when looking at photos of the e-11's I'd say that the mags were cut for about 10 rounds. but we'd have to compare the 10rnd clip with screenshots. cutting the mag was simple for me. tape the line with duct tape: saw though each top and bottom. dremel the edges off about 1/8" longer. with the matching edge from your cut off. compare with original edges. bend the top and bottom into a very slight lip outwards for the replacement of the end cap. (use the existing one as a guide on the part cut off- regular pliers work well ) cut inner clip spring to fit existing size with enough tension to push mount inner assembly, replace end cap. in some screenshots we have blasters with wood blocks, some with blank firing clips. the goal in this case would be to find a blank firing screenshot and use that. the wood block screenshots might suggest a 5 rnd clip, while other firing versions must have had 10rnds per. I think you could rule out the 15rnd mag! I'm digging at screen refs. will add photos here: this harrison ford closeup from the detention block corridor scene. clearly shows a real bolt and cocking handle as well as a very cut down mag. "get in there!" he says to chewie... perhaps the prop weapons man cut them down to 5? cost less for a license with 5 blank rounds instead of 10?

you could go dual eib like me 2 belts/holster blasters 2 sets gloves 2 helmets just have to change the way your straps attach at back if you go anh hero you could have them attached for both

I used a 32rnd and cut it down 10 min w duct tape and a hacksaw.

first check with the UKG gml... he's the one who will be standing at the forefront of your costume choice@! the UKG is pretty strict actually from what I understand.

nice lookin kit there!

the whole key to running the system is just as steve points out. using a waterproof covering over the switch is really important! using the PTT is really important to how the system can be more friendly to use. I love my setup! this system rocks! has anyone tried to wire the ptt to their AB buttons?

his boxes work !

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hey guys! when I click links in the CRL and on certain posts I'm getting a error message saying I don't have permissions I'm extended staff attache' thanks in advance help! can't get to the CRLS!

score snap and sand@! you can even use power sanders. I also use tin snips. your handplates need just a little more trimming! when you cut them out of the base tree, then you must shape them along the proper lines. I'll pop up a photo here in a bit.

there is a difference in appearance due to the type and thickness of plastics used. slight but subtle.

the smaller deflector goes on the front right side and the larger one goes on the middle of the barrel on the right side near the breech. to make a scope rail get a piece of aluminum flat bar 1/8 x 3/4" measure from the top last hole where the T Track goes in and bend it at a 90. tape off your bend point with duct tape, score the bar lightly with a hacksaw place in vise and carefully hammer to a 90. then cut the front lower part into a notch to fit into a hole. keep the entire thing long enough to reach the rear sight, notch the end of the bar to fit into the rear sight, drill a hole and fit a small nut and bolt combination though the rear sight affix bolt inside. align the scope on the rail so that the rear foot of the scope lines up with the folding stock hinge near the handle. the hengstler counter needs a small L shaped bracket so that it lines up with the magazine well properly. ------

nylon webbing can be a problem with snaps. most people use plastic plates with tape on the back of the snap and glue them in place the tape keeps the glue from heating up the nickel snap and melting the armor.

free bump for my post count! thanks man for all your help around here!

Cast from original would be a better fit for ROTJ armor. look for CFO.

depending on your armor make the returns on the chest and abdomen can be 1/4" most returns are for putting the brackets nuts bolts and hangers.

personally I'd wait.