TK bondservnt

looking forward to the next 5 years! special thanks goes out to Paul and Mason for this great place to hang out with our brothers!

I love TM's input on threads! keeping the masters on the threads can make the FISD even greater!

make a deathtrooper out of it? you probably could go with a kit with a larger kidney plate and ab section. and a screen accurate chestplate and back plate might be in your future. can you show photos of your current kit?

the paint is impregnated into the latex. this will eliminate yellowing since the pigment completely is mixed into the entire latex application. not just on the surface. and the sealer can be sprayed on. thanks for your input, but the best method is to use latex and acrylic products together.

top left is my fav!

what mathias said!

they look close, but to the true collector you can instantly see flaws all over the place!

if your suit is cut to the overlaps first you can tape them on and check your fitting. most simply tape em together and mark the 1/2 way point on each part where it overlaps, cut each side on your marks, and then you simply add your cover strip one side at a time when gluing.

if you go EIB and then modify the suit out of the original configuration, then you might lose the EIB designation. isn't that right? should you just go for incinerator EIB out of the box?

I'd say only take off another mm on each side.

the latex is not surface painted, you add the paint DURING the casting. then the shine is applied using a clear white industrial sealer ------

if you eat cold sandwhiches it can stand guard?

I can make em.

good post!

"a lot of specal modifications yourself!" looks like she'll fly .5 past lightspeed.

the armor parts are all in the painting process and need to be completely finished before photos can be taken, otherwise it's just repeating the process. adding a clearcoat that has no flaws, is deep and rich... this is the goal of a 3 coat clear shoot on this kit. this will have all flat black details, and be very shiny.

you can add the paint into the latex and then a shine can be applied with gloss sealer any paint color can be made to match as the paint is acrylic usually.

having to build armor for myself, but I keep on building new armors. up next is my TKC build. it's gonna have the ROTJ method of overlap assembly. and I'm itching to get the pattern finished for my weathering. I have made my latex handplates out of black latex paint impregnated and coated with clear gloss. all flexible and shiny too! my belt has arrived and I'm working on getting it fitted. my pauldron and bfg are also in.

if your abs is uncoated you can use novus to remove pen and marker. I'd use fuller's earth take a look at trooperbay for it.

interesting to see that most replica m19's are the one from 1942.

trooperbay stencils rock!

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=9463 maybe you should PM me for more questions instead of starting topics?

so true!

battlefront is not really following the naming convention for tk's so I'd consider it a flaw in the game design, much like 1/2 of a thermal detonator.

very nice lid! but I can still see the curve!