Sly11

Welcome to EIB, congrats. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The Gel control in some brands is as thick as they make it. It certainly gives you some breathing space before it locks, but if you are using talk with it, it is the same as using zip kicker, Bang and its set.

looks good to me

I take it these batteries are in some kind of pack and not a standard type AA rechargeable . If they are putting themselves into sleep mode there must be a chip in the pack that detects no amperage . Sorry just trying to understand exactly what you have. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice shots. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to the ranks, congrats. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Do you have a set of small files, they are easier to use when you need to take out small amounts and end with a good finish, specially with small to work in areas like the teeth.

Very excited for you Stuart, sing out if you need a hand happy to help you make your first cut.

Congratulations, a nice set of armor indeed. Welcome to Centurion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Getting there, just make sure you clear the areas of paint that you are going to bond together. ie. trigger guard contact points, pistol grip etc, otherwise you may not get a good strong bond.

Update to my Blaster build Hengsler Mod I have been meaning to do this mod for yonks, Altair's beautiful Blaster build thread has inspired me to get off my butt and get this relativity easy upgrade done. Simpixel from FISD makes it straight forward as he not only has a template with all measurements accurately done, but he can also supply a printable form of numbers to put on your Hengsler for added realism. I chose my TK ID 11469 First sanded the end flat, taking off what was the raised area of molded counter display. This is where I noticed that my Hengsler wasn't square. Quite obvious in this shot Marked and ready to recess in for reset button and screen. I gave Altair a call, as I was having a devil of a time trying to print the display numbers out at the appropriate size. He told me he had the same issue and trial and error was the only way. Here I printed out various sizes, but for some reason, this time the 10mmx34mm actually printed at exactly that and is the one to use. It was time for some Dremell action, also used a sharp chisel to hollow out the screen and counter reset button area. Scope (one of my local garrison members) graciously, helped me out today with a piece of 4mm thick perspex. Thanks Jas, luv ya bro. From that piece I cut out a section 10mm x 34mm. I marked the depth it would sit in the recess, and used the end of an Art-line pen to mark the curvature the original lens on the counter has. Starting with 80 grit sand paper, I slowly sand the curve into the perspex, following the line marked at either end., gradually moving to finer and finer paper. Then hit it with 2000 grit Wet n Dry, and eventually the Dremmel with buffing pag and cutting compound. Used a spare piece of ABS, and cut out the reset button, width, 10mm, length will depend on how deep you drill out the slot to put it in. Image of the parts to complete the counter. Assembled for test fit. Next step is to primer, colour coat and then clear finish, reassemble and all done. Repainting time. Once the matte black has dried, I will weather and colour the crew heads. Well, you have got to love the weather conditions . Absolutely perfect for painting and drying. 24 degrees C, and 33% humidity. Everything just dries so quickly. Painted, clear coated, and assembled. Mounted Now, I will consider doing the curly wires that connect the counter to the power cylinders. Very few of the film used versions actually had these wires so we shall see. Maybe so more research will push me to go there.

Looking very good so far, and wow, that's a lot of clamps [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sorry if I repeat anything already said here, but evolution is evolution. Sure we will always discover something new, or missed or never seen before, but history is what defines us. Things improve, be it technique, materiel, or technology, these costumes don't last forever, and gradually you will see less and less FX and first gen so to speak. Everything evolves and changes, but they certainly shouldn't be forgotten. Will everyone be happy, no, will everyone agree, never, but at the heart of it, we dress at Stormtroopers with various levels of accuracy, old and new. It seems to me that are mentality to all of this also needs to evolve. We should all embrace these different levels of accuracy and enjoy our hobby for what it is and not what you can afford, or have the ability to modify. I for one love high accuracy, but would never condem others for not achieving it. Love, peace and respect [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not saying this is what you are doing, but through experience. If you are using the basic tool for snaps(base part and centre part that flattens the middle piece), don't over flatten it. There are two different types of centre punch you can buy. One is simply round and tappers, the other actually is almost square and tapers. The square is the better of the two as it allows the centre part to split in four directions instead of just squash it down. This better secures the front to the backing and is much harder to rip one out of your armour, fabric, elastic etc. Hope this makes sense . If not I can take a photo of the one I use and post it in this thread. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations, and welcome to Centurion rank. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Detail is outstanding mate, will make your display piece this weekend. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just watch your side rivet placement. If you intend to build to Centurion, and your armor doesn't have the cut out at the base of the kidney piece, you will need to make that allowance, then evenly space your rivets apart. (You can't see the cut outs in the diagram from Bill) always go back to the CRL and check as well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey John If you want a curved one , I am more than happy to knock one up for you, got plenty of perspective to play with, so can make it at standard dimensions 10x34. Let me know [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Correct.It is a single holder that carries the 3 batteries. One positive and one negative connector. If you used 3 standard recharge batteries (normally only 1.2 vlt each) you achieve 3.6 volt. This was my original work around for my Icomm as it requires 3.6 volt exactly. Then I moved to a single Ultra fire 3.6 volt and a single holder. So back on point, if you use the holder that holds 3 batteries, you will have the 10.8 volt and a fan that runs far better than the 6 volt it currently is getting. As too the battery sizes and heat, if you drain the battery at less than its voltage, it runs longer and will heat up less. You can get small cells with high mAh ratings, but generally they get quite expensive due to the content of the cell and the manufacturing process. I think the Ultrafires will work fine to run your set up and are relatively cheap for what you get. Don't worry, as you research your knowledge on this will grow and you will experiment more. Learn the basics of parallel and series for wiring up and the rest will make perfect sense. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes, I also have spoken with Mrs Sly and daughter Sly, let the saving begin. I plan to do a fare bit of sightseeing in Orlando and New York. Mrs Sly has insisted we go to Hawaii on the way home, for a few days R n R. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am happy either way, but I have never been to the east coast, so my planned trip will be far simpler if it is in Orlando. As ANH was shown first in Manns Chinese theatre in Cali, just thought there may be the chance the organised might be feeling sentimental and place C8 back in Cali. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Do we know where C8 will be held, East Coast or West coast, considering it will be the ANH 40th anniversary. I'm guessing they will possibly align the dates to tie in with a May 26th release .

If you hook your batteries in series, you will change the voltage. As I understand it , you are currently running 12volt fans, the less voltage you feed them, the slower they will run. If you feed them too much voltage, they will burn out quicker. You can buy a triple holder for AAA batteries, so 3 x 3.6 volt = 10.8 volts, should run the fans well. The higher the capacity of the battery, meassured in mAh or Milli amp hours will determine your running time. The higher the mAh, the longer the fans will run. So look for the highest mAh, you can get in a compact size. Generally it is the Lithium Ion batteries that will give you the highest at the smallest size. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking great so far, think you should consider shooting for Centurion, as your build is very tidy. It is easier to aim for the top as you go, so you wont have to go back and modify things a a later date. Good luck with the rest of your build

I use the Ultrafire 3.6vlt rechargeable to run my Icomm as the internal battery went flat. bought a $5 charger off ebay. Make sure you get the Ultras with the built in protection circuit, as this allows a stable charge and discharge Pretty sure the Ultrafire AA is 960mAh, so should run for hours. See charger link below -----------