dmjuel

Awesome news I purchased some thin bluetooth transmitter/receiver dongles from amazon...after a little filing and drilling to make just a little more room I was able to plug in the blaster to the transmitter and contain the whole thing in the barrel. It transmits to the receiver in my chest plate and plays out of the Aker amplifier. Now I've got some real blaster sounds.

Be there first and second weekend! Spectating...since I'm still not done building armor :/ but there none the less Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the sound is a little muted...(definitely not a fear inspiring blast) but it makes noise and is decent. The occasional ricochet noises are a nice touch. Since I used a female audio jack I though about using an aux cord and connecting it to my Aker system which works but means I have to figure out how to hide a cable coming out of my blaster to my chest. I ordered a bluetooth transmitter/receiver off of amazon that looks small enough to hide behind the batteries instead of the speaker. Reciever in the chest plate hooked to Aker system and I can have a nice loud blaster noise, I highly recommend using jacks instead of direct wiring because it gives you options.

Better angle to see circuit board attached to ammo box: So here is where I'm at now...I plan on using rubber (weather stripping cut to fit the slot and painted like a spring) as you can see the battery fits nicely and I have some more touch up to do Here is the Red LEDs I used bought them on Amazon They come in packs of 100 so I now have 98 Red LEDs for a future project Tools that are essential to this project:

Filled in the gap with standard painters caulk, I did this with a syringe with a bent tip (something that they give you when you get your wisdom teeth removed to clean the holes) Other side....looks rough but it's hidden well by the cross bar: All painted up...sorry for the poor lighting: Other side... Here is the circuit board glued to the ammo box:

The battery cover on the gun when trimmed down and painted fits the circuit board like a glove and can hide on the ammo box: Here it is ready to be glued to the ammo box: Hot glued the switch into place I exteded the trigger button with a pencil eraser from a mechanical button...it extended the reach so that the trigger could activate it: There is the female audio jack and trigger wires in place ready to be glued down:

Wires that will go to the circuit board Two for the trigger switch All the wires for the LEDs, battery, and audio that will be connected through the bolt chamber: Soldering time...don't forget to put the heatshrink over the wire first (see the sleeve on the left wire) I had to disconnect and reconnect several connections: Got the circuit board attached and hot glued into its housing:

Here is the pistol grip and the dremel work I did to get to the spring loaded trigger (a mod from previous owner) This is where the trigger switch will sit: Got carried away with dremel but hole was hid easily as you will see later...plus its covered by the cross bar: I broke the tiny wires in the speaker that came stock with the gun...but this speaker from a bluetooth speaker works nicely and using the 3.5mm audio jack gives me other audio options: Pulled all black wires into place for connections...labeling is extremely important since they are all black:

I had to wallow out the bolt chamber a bit to ease sliding the battery pack in I also shaved quite a bit off the edges luckily any damage is covered up by the cap: Dremeled out all of the innerds of the cap to create even more space: This hole is covered by the ammo box and is the entrance for the circuit board wires: This hole is where the pistol grip attaches and is where the wires to the switch will enter:

Finally got some pics of my build Here is the toy blaster that I gutted In order to get plenty of small STRANDED wires I bought 100' of phone line and stripped out the 4 different colored wires ...the beer helped Here are the guts of the gun circuit board, trigger switch 2 LEDs and speaker cables Lots of hot glue to strengthen the solder connections...since I was going to be moving things around alot I didn't want to stress the connection til it broke. Three AAA batteries in a square was not going to fit, a battery pack from a cheap flashlight is the perfect cylindrical solution

So I bought a completed Doopy Doos ANH E!! off of Ebay that was assembled/painted and had a working trigger as well as a moving bolt. I found a Hasbro Capt Rex Clone Wars Blaster at a garage sale and loved the sound effects (the blaster will periodically give you a ricochet noise). I decided to further modify the resin blaster with the electronic guts of the toy. I started by making room in the blaster for the components, which involved a lot of dremel work and drilling. I fried the circuit board on the toy (Red = Positive, Black = Negative...SMH) and to my dismay found that my 50 cent purchase cost about 37 bucks new. I bit the bullet and bought the new blaster. I have purchased red LEDs ~3.4V to replace the blue ones that came stock with the toy. I am on the verge of assembling the pieces once the proper tools arrive in the mail. Hopefully the end result will be a resin blaster with decent blaster sound effects. Couple questions I have: Once assembled the batteries and the majority of the cables will be in the chamber normally reserved for the spring/bolt, will this be acceptable for trooping as there will be no visible spring and likely a bunch of black wires shoved into this space? ( I can try to mask them with a solid thin sheet of plastic but it is a pretty snug fit as it is) Two part question: When it's time to repaint should I strip all previous paint and start anew or just try to touch up? If I should repaint anew what is the best method for stripping the pain? (sanding might remove the detail work on the grip) Also I have some spaces that the dremel has broken the outer skin (I.E. I sanded to close to the edge and put a hole in the grip right where it connects to the barrel), it is not a highly visible space so some well placed caulk should fill in the spaces before painting...any preference on this? (silicone, white painters caulk, or perhaps some other substance like bondo or spackle) I will follow up with pictures and videos later.

I am also going to post this under electronics for blasters...that may be a more appropriate place for these questions....so many forums to choose from.

So I bought a completed Doopy Doos ANH E11 off of Ebay that was assembled/painted and had a working trigger as well as a moving bolt. I found a Hasbro Capt Wrex Clone Wars Blaster at a garage sale and loved the sound effects (the blaster will periodically give you a ricochet noise). I decided to further modify the resin blaster with the electronic guts of the toy. I started by making room in the blaster for the components, which involved a lot of dremel work and drilling. I fried the circuit board on the toy (Red = Positive, Black = Negative...SMH) and to my dismay found that my 50 cent purchase cost about 37 bucks new. I bit the bullet and bought the new blaster. I have purchased RED LEDs ~3.4V to replace the blue ones that came stock with the toy. I am on the verge of assembling the pieces once the proper tools arrive in the mail. Hopefully the end result will be a resin blaster with decent blaster sound effects. Couple Questions I have: Once assembled the batteries and the majority of the cables will be in the chamber normally reserved for the spring/bolt, will this be acceptable for trooping as there will be no visible spring and likely a bunch of black wires shoved into this space? (I can try to mask them with a solid thin sheet of plastic but it is a pretty snug fit as it is) Two part question: When it's time to repaint should I strip all previous paint and start anew or just try to touch up? If I should repaint anew what is the best method for stripping the paint? (sanding might remove the detail work on the grip) Also I have some spaces that the dremel has broken the outer skin (I.E. I sanded to close to the edge and put a hole in the grip right where it connects to the barrel), it is not in a highly visible space so some well placed caulk should fill in the spaces before painting any preference on this? (silicone, white painters caulk, or perhaps some other substance like bondo or spackle) I will follow up with pictures and videos later.

Wife sent an email...she may beat me to trooping...I don't even have armor ordered yet lol

Interestingly enough looks like the return may go off without a hitch "dear sir, i am extremely sorry about the problem, would it be okay if i can issued a 30% discount on the item price if you can keep the item. if not i can email you a return shipping label to ship it back to us for a full refund please let me know thank you and once again i am very very sorry" English isn't all there but at least they seem willing to work with me.