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welshchris77

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

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About welshchris77

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 01/27/1977

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    welshchrisinireland@yahoo.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wexford, Ireland
  • Interests
    Painting, sculpting, prop making, music production, playing the Guitar

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    4/4/16
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    Ireland's first Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
    Chris
  • 501st ID
    11677
  • 501st Unit
    501st Legion Ireland Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

569 profile views
  1. Hi, It seems my ongoing sales thread has been archived, may I ask it be put back please? I am still selling these but not everyone comments in the thread when they have bought a set I only noticed when someone sent me a PM looking for a set and heard from another member that I used to have an ongoing sales thread, I did not know it was no longer active. My original sales thread:- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47933-silicone-flexible-hand-guards-ukeu/
  2. Haven't got any in ages as I stocked up a few years ago from a supplier on eBay, I don't think they operate now but most of my fellow troopers use RWA now, I will send you a pm Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  3. The 'E6000 plus' is completely different, it is a 'general adhesive', the E6000 commonly used on armour is 'industrial strength'. Someone gave me a tube of the plus once, as soon as I opened it I knew there was something different as it didn't have the strong smell, it does say 'odor free' on the packaging but I thought I better do a bench test piece before committing to using it on a prop. I glued two pieces of scrap ABS with 'plus' and left it 3 days to cure. When I came back I tried pulling the two pieces apart, they came apart easily. I would not use the plus on armour. Once when I was working on a project I had run out of E6000, I happened to have a tube of 'shoe goo' original in the studio, it smelled the same as E6000 and was also an industrial adhesive, I used it and it worked great [emoji16] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  4. I have build one myself from an old pot and a fridge compressor (will post a build thread)
  5. This is so weird as I have also been experimenting doing exactly the same thing as you using polyurethane Resin as also thought about using clear resin to do something similar, Im looking at making a de-gassing chamber to get rid of the bubbles. Well done Aaron it looks great!
  6. Wow your shed is so clean!, mine often looks like a war zone![emoji23] Take your time and check others build threads, always ask if unsure on any fitment. Before any final trimming see how it all fits on you to check how parts relate to each other in terms of proportion. When I build armour I generally leave enough gap to fit a finger between skin and armour, a little more at the top of the thighs and maybe biceps to allow for muscle flex. Always check shin pieces with your boots on. Take your time and you will get there, slow and steady wins the race![emoji4][emoji6] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  7. I would leave them like that for now, do the torso then roughly tape the shins (with boots on!), you can then gauge gap ratio (if any) between armour before committing to anything. It's often a good idea to leave more room at the top of the thighs when you finalise everything as your thigh muscles can expand as your walking so may need a little more room. Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  8. It will depend on how your shins end up fitting and what level you decide to go for. I am 6.1 with long legs so had to average out the thigh and knee gaps for centurion level, if that makes sense![emoji16] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  9. Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  10. Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  11. If it's any help this is what a 'chopped up' doopy's looks like. In my opinion it's not worth the extra work to have a working bolt unless it's for electronics, that's just me though[emoji4] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  12. No worries, I started off making regular doopydoos, just take your time, superglue is great for sticking resin to resin Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
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