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welshchris77

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    410
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

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About welshchris77

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 01/27/1977

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    welshchrisinireland@yahoo.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wexford, Ireland
  • Interests
    Painting, sculpting, prop making, music production, playing the Guitar

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    4/4/16
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    Ireland's first Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
    Chris
  • 501st ID
    11677
  • 501st Unit
    501st Legion Ireland Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

358 profile views
  1. Wow your shed is so clean!, mine often looks like a war zone![emoji23] Take your time and check others build threads, always ask if unsure on any fitment. Before any final trimming see how it all fits on you to check how parts relate to each other in terms of proportion. When I build armour I generally leave enough gap to fit a finger between skin and armour, a little more at the top of the thighs and maybe biceps to allow for muscle flex. Always check shin pieces with your boots on. Take your time and you will get there, slow and steady wins the race![emoji4][emoji6] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  2. I would leave them like that for now, do the torso then roughly tape the shins (with boots on!), you can then gauge gap ratio (if any) between armour before committing to anything. It's often a good idea to leave more room at the top of the thighs when you finalise everything as your thigh muscles can expand as your walking so may need a little more room. Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  3. It will depend on how your shins end up fitting and what level you decide to go for. I am 6.1 with long legs so had to average out the thigh and knee gaps for centurion level, if that makes sense![emoji16] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  4. Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  5. Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  6. If it's any help this is what a 'chopped up' doopy's looks like. In my opinion it's not worth the extra work to have a working bolt unless it's for electronics, that's just me though[emoji4] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  7. No worries, I started off making regular doopydoos, just take your time, superglue is great for sticking resin to resin Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  8. I used a 38mm aluminium pipe from ebay and doner parts from a full E11 doopydoos kits (not pipe build kit as theses parts fit a 40mm pvc pipe), the Aluminium pipe is exactly the same diameter as my sterling and the doopydoos parts fit perfect!
  9. Thanks [emoji16][emoji106] Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
  10. Made a YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNtlV2cNaLA
  11. Thanks!, im going to sell two of them, hopefully within my Garrison, difficult putting a price on them though
  12. Yeah the three LED regulators and Arduino nano run directly off the battery, everything else is run from the Arduino's 5v output, looks fairly simple in a diagram but can get logistically tricky trying to fit everything in, 15 wires needed to be joined at the ejection port, that doesn't include all the ground and power cables that were spliced together at various points before the port
  13. didn't need too Jesse, its super bright and can be seen from a very wide angle and in daylight, looks great in the dark too!, these leds are so bright!
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