The5thHorseman

Lucky devil ! I can't wait to see it painted

Those are really nice pictures ! I assume the TM shins are the longer version for tall people ?

Looking good ! Good luck for your approval However, your elbow gaps are really big to me. You are tall so i think you should remove you biceps hooks and drop down your biceps, they don't need to be fitted inside the shoulder bells. I would also add the strap between the biceps and forearms to bring the forearms up. It's better to have a wrist gap than an elbow gap.

Best e-11 paint i've seen so far is this: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26588-more-accurate-sterlinge-11-paint-finish/

You miss the strap that goes around your arm and passes in your armpit. And yes, it is required to have it !

Excellent newsletter, Thank you! Lots of very interesting and cool stuff

I wouldn't use velcro to hold the sniper knee plate or the ab buttons. To me it sounds like the best way to lose those pieces during a troop... But i'm a little biased as i really don't like velcro ! Thighs strapping is just glued to the thighs and then looped and sewn at the top. And these loops pass around a belt which you have around the waist.

Like jason says, CAP rivets http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/19-how-to-install-cap-rivets-video/

This is a PVC pipe but i don't have any idea about its outer diameter. Using reference pics i just picked the one which look right to me but didn't take the time to mesure it.

Damn it Steve!! You are amazing! That's exactly what i wish i would have used on my blaster

I can fully understand making a topic to compliment him, he clearly deserves it for all he hes and is doing for the community, but i find it a bit disturbing to expose Paul's life like that... Ok, i guess that's just me not liking exposing my personnal life on the net... :arrow:

Which gap are you talking about on the drop boxes? I don't see any problem. All the paintjob looks good! There's only the right end of this frown that i would taper more:

Edit: Ian, your second pic isn't ANH armor. Don't bother too much aligning the thigh's front cover strip with the middle ammo box, the most important is the rivets placement. Both rivets go through the upper corner of the knee belt wings to the bottom ridge of the thigh. Then you can glue the front to avoid shifting if you want. Rivets are painted white. And if the ammo knee belt makes a 45° angle with the thigh it doesn't matter, it just happens sometimes. Like the one on the right of the picture below: But right now you should correct your trimming on the ammo knee blet. The top should be trimmed right above the boxes, and same thing at the bottom.

Acétone + très petits morceaux d'ABS dans un récipient en verre avec couvercle idéalement. Au niveau ratio l'erreur classique est de mettre trop d'Acétone. Dépose tes morceaux d'ABS puis ajoute l'Acétone jusqu'à qu'ils soient recouverts mais pas plus. Ensuite laisse reposer en mélangeant de temps en temps. Si tu vois que tout l'acétone a été consommé alors qu'il reste de l'ABS dans ton récipient, rajoutes-en alors jusqu'à obtenir une mixture de consistance similaire à de la moutarde. Laisse reposer environ 24h avant d'utiliser la pâte et n'hésite pas à bien la malaxer (avec les doigts ou autre chose) avant de t'en servir pour essayer de chasser au maximum les bulles d'air emprisonnées à l'intérieur. Pour les différentes validations: Niveau 1 = 501st Niveau 2 = EIB Niveau 3 = Centurion Uniquement l'extérieur est soumis à approval. Tu peux faire ce que tu veux au niveau du strapping interne du moment de l'extérieur est bon

Oups désolé, DO = Deployment Officer, le gars qui s'occupe de valider les EIB et les Centurion

This whole thread is a reference to me but you can look at post #87 about the helmet build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25538-wideamgs-rs-props-pvc-anh-stunt-build/page-5 Of course !

Unfortunately you glued the Bayonnet Lug upside-down

Yep, je suis d'accord avec Eric, ça passera pas pour le Centurion normalement (même si pour l'instant j'ai pas l'impression que ce soit très vérifié pas notre DO ).

Hey, that's impressive how you now just move on forward and build this armor by yourselves! You don't seem to need anymore help now That's cool to see guys doing the part of the research job on their own However... (because there's always one ) unfortunately your shins hooks are glued the wrong way. The hook should face inward:

Lol, thank for the strap ! But now that you have it, you can replace your biceps where they were before if your prefer. The strap will keep the forearms close to the biceps when arms at side, but will loose (and stretch if necessary) when you bend the arms and shouldn't block your elbows. I find you forearms good in sizing, your biceps too, there's just the fact the left one is larger than the right one which make it a bit odd.

Find you a pair of Chelsea-like boots: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24742-trooper-boots-a-list-of-suitable-candidates/ And then, dye them in white: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24904-chelsea-boots-painting-using-airbrush-heavy-pics/#entry313120 or you could also send a message to TKBoots: http://www.tkboots.com/

Non, les deux sangles peuvent tout à fait être noires si tu préfères

Looking good so far! I'm glad the boiling water worked for you

Il me semble que sur les armures originales, les inner boxes étaient collées à l'intérieur de la boite externe, donc tu n'as pas forcément besoin qu'elles soient retirables. Par contre pour la validation de niveau 3, les inner drop boxes doivent être complètes, c'est à dire avec des bords latéraux. Cependant pour le niveau 2 et 1 tu peux tout à fait te satisfaire d'un simple couvercle maintenu à la bonne hauteur.

The result is very good, great build! And i see you have some very good posters here, Pink Floyd Wish You Were Here, Led Zeppelin; excellent bands