The5thHorseman

Position is good! You can drill

eFX didn't use pop-rivets on their Prototype Stormtrooper. So maybe it's why Vern is saying they were'nt used on the film: (but actually this is not a screen used armor so...)

Just hit your boots with your soles. It makes some very nice scuffs:

Once tightened the ear shouldn't be that bad i think.

I don't even see why you would have problems obtaining Centurion Except from your left shin which popped out from your boot in your indoor set, everything's perfect!

Excellent way to adapt glasses and TK helmet I should do the same... but i like trooping in the blind

Damn, you're right, i'm Colonel now ! Weird...

Looking very good! The black outlines could be a little bit narrower, especially the ones of the right tear, but overall that's very neat. I love the frown! It would have been great if have taken more pics of the way you fixed your ear gaps though. I think that would have helped lot of troopers.

I like to leave some room at the top. When the thigh is on, i'm able to slip 2 fingers between my thigh and the thigh armor.

Noooo... before painting you had one more mod to add... Just kidding ! PAINT the darn thing!! Edit: actually i don't remember: does it have an inner barrel?

In fact it's no elastic, this is gaffers tape. Look at the white hue between the elastic and the tape, it's a lot different It has probably been used because the glue didn't hold up during the film. Also the vertical elastic strap is looped around the canvas belt, and then riveted to the inner drop boxes, making a double layer of elastic.

Ear looks good to me. IMO the only way to close the front gap would be to drop down a little the ear, or perhaps by tightening harder the bottom screw. Your bottom screw localizationis good, no worries to have on this matter. And i guess the screw is provided to fasten the two halves of the helmet together, but i think we all use pop rivets for this purpose now. Edit: Steve beat me on that

This melting stuff is a myth for me too. I tried (several times) putting e6000 on a snap and then glue it to ABS and had no problem at all.

I notched it too:

Your armor looks awesome, truly! Except for this one thing: i wouldn't give Centurion with such elbow gaps like that. Strapping the forearms with the biceps doesn't reduce or block at all your movements. It just keeps them up when arms at side, while still allowing them to slide down when bent.

And where's the Boba Fett?

If your shoulder bridges extend too far in the back i think it's because they're glued a bit too high on the chest plate. They should be glued between the 5th and the 6th ridge not counting the first big one. Other than that, it's still some very impressive work! Congratulation to you and your engineer Edit: For Centurion you will have to trim down the front cover strip of the left thigh so it ends before the bottom ridge

Man, you're clever! And nice fix on the folding stock, sometimes it's hard to find the motivation to fix those small kind of flaws. However, your way to mount the cocking lever isn't really accurate. In fact the cocking handle has a rouded base which slot into a rounded recess on the inner bolt: (it's hard to see on the reference above so i borrowed this one from Gazmosis:)

I feel like this one will be uber-accurate! Good job! And those decals are crazy, i didn't know they had such a texture like that.

A bit odd too but if i can see a faceplate, a dome, the ears, i cannot see any back section... Is the kit really complete? That could be the explanation for the low price

It's normal if the bottom section of the Cap&Back overlap a little the bottom of the faceplate. Just be sure when drilling that those areas are kept firmly against one another (by hand or with something else) so the holes are rightly lined

We posted together so i didn't see your post before sendin mine but Indeed, if removing only the ridge all the way long make them fit it's the easiest and the best solution i think. Just make sur the fit is good ! Mesure twice, cut once

After reviewing your pictures i think the problem is that you need that extra space (provided by the ridge) at the top but not at the bottom :/ And if you do a diagonal cut in the ridge it will be bothering to glue the cover strip properly. I guess in this case you can reduce the ridge to something like 10mm and then trim the inner half. The cover strip will be a little bit offset but i've already seen it done before.

It's the one Steve (Gazmosis), our DO, recommands so it should be good.

Original thighs didn't have flat sections in the back, so fell free to trim on both side to keep the cover strips centered. For exemple: