The5thHorseman

The more i see them, the more i like the Bapty's Blaster! And yours is incredible The only thing i see as a flaw (i'm not sure!) would be this: On the Original, the curve makes an angle whereas on yours it's all curved. And IMO it's more likely because of the folding stock body which is fitted inside this unfoldable part of the stock: Edit: And why did you add the white lettering on the scope? I mean, you've let the resin pouring spouts on top of the scope, so as i understand it it's implying this isn't a real scope and they surely didn't take the time to paint the lettering in white

Yep, that's it, 7/8 inch cover strip over a 1 1/4 flat section. The look is good, you can check the RampantLion's Centurion submisson for an overview of what it will look like. It's only noticeable on close-up:

Keep the cover strips 7/8 inches (about 25mm). Wider cover strips are only allowed to cover a gap between the two halves. And in your case, the flat sections showing shouldn't be that wide. About the arms:

It's all looking good and progressing fast! You can take off more of the forearms front return edges though. There should be none:

When you know what you're doing, building a Stormtrooper is pretty straight forward. I think your time estimation should be fine!

BTW Lou, i think providing better Power Cylinders and also t-tracks would be huge improvements for your kit

I just realized how complicated was my solution when you can just sand the bottom face of your rear end bolt for the same result . Think twice, post once

Anticipating criticism, i like it However, can't you cut a channel into your two layered bolt and the marker so the rear end bolt you have made can be inserted inside the rod and then not sit flush with the barrel outer diameter.

Here's a real m19. The brass is really showing mainly at the asperities/scratches: Give your scope few black washes and that should do it. Jancelot did the same in his application thread and it looks great: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22925-tk-0393-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-92-ap/page-2

Paint the D-ring black, tune down a little the brass weathering on the scope and you're golden for Centurion!! No matter if it's a fan sculpt, TM is really the best

Impressive AP Hero ear, most impressive! Maybe you could send a pair to Mark at AP so he can add them to his armor kit

Way much better

I agree with Mathias, this seem very specific to me. Here some back shots of Hero helmets and most seem to not have it: --------

That pointy cap n' back might just be because the s-trim isn't well in place, or because of the neck opening trimming. If the neck opening were trimmed more rounded i'm pretty sure you wouldn't have that impression of pointiness. In fact, looking closely at the picture it seems the area where the lines meet (giving the pointy look) is localized at the s-trim junction and that there's a gap between the two lips. That would explain why it gives that pointy illusion. To me it seems more like an "assembly" thing. So don't get demotivated!

I don't think "wonderful" is the word I would have known, i would have made them cleaner... but you asked for, so here you go, full resolution! I just precise that it's better to use CAP rivets instead of pop-rivets to fasten the ammo belt to the canvas belt, as it is to fasten the inner drop boxes to their straps. I told my brother to use pop-rivets because that's all he had.

My diagrams are all written in french, so wider pictures wouldn't be that useful Unless you or the engineer do speak french? http://www.forbes.com/sites/pascalemmanuelgobry/2014/03/21/want-to-know-the-language-of-the-future-the-data-suggests-it-could-be-french/

Sounds good! ESB and ROTJ blasters are too rare.

Belt is much more difficult to assemble right than what we would expect from it. It's really easy to screw up this part. At the time my brother built his suit i wrote a tutorial for him, and it ended up making almost 2 pages without being fully complete And i'm so pleased you finally decided to handpaint your helmet. I'll be honest, when i saw you used decals i cringed, but then i saw you removing them and get the brushes and i'm happy now And don't worry i developped an OCD too when painting. It was to always fully check the helmet twice or three time after each pain session, to be absolutely sure i didn't make some unnoticed fingerprints on it and to not let them dry.

Fast and well-deserved approval !

That's right, i forgot you have the original stock colour to match. I hope the texture won't be all smoothened by the paint layers, would be a shame

Texture is looking really good! Will you mask the whole barrel when you'll paint the t-tracks, mag, etc, or just paint over the crinkled finish?

Like Mathias says, no washers for me neither. But if your pop rivets are a little bit too long, i guess you can put a washer for adding some thickness.

It's pleasant to see arms rightly strapped together . The armor looks very good! Congrats! However, i think you could tapper a little more your frown ends. Especially on the left side which is a bit square right now. And also, you can definitely shave more of the ABS on the right side of your Abdominal plate. See the distance between the edge and the upper male snap below:

Oh my god, you're a genius!!! I spent so much time finding the right curves on mines so they fit my PVC pipe... It would have been so much easier with that trick Your reset button on the hengstler seems a bit long to me though: That blaster with a TM armor... Damn you will be totally kick*a*s*s

Agree