The5thHorseman

There shouldn't be any gap between the top of the forearm and the bottom of the bicep. The biceps though, don't have to be be fitted inside the shoulder bells, they can be one upon another if needed. About elastic, it does the job very well and gives you some flexibility so it is recommanded to use it everywhere. Though if you have issues keeping your sides closed some webbing could help.

Hey, i've just undestood how it can also work with untrimmed ears . Indeed if you could provide pictures with untrimmed ones it could be an absolutely awesome trick!

i HATE this posture!! It just looks sooo bad... When i don't hold my blaster i prefer just keeping my arms at sides, close the fist in front of me, or point the camera but never ever i will take this stupid pose... The only trooper i know who doesn't look silly with this pose is this one, and that's because he's taken from the side: ---------- I couldn't agree more with you on that point!

The crotch rivet is left unpainted. On the butt plate tab, there are usually two male snaps also left unpainted.

Yeah, as it is strapped now you will have huge elbow gaps. i would also advise you to change the webbing for elastic.

Nice trick to modify the thickness of an ear, but IMO what most people are looking for is how to get the first trimming line, even if it's to thick. However, i'm sure it will help some people around

Well, not completely done, you forgot to paint the ear bar rank in black and the screw heads in white.

That's what i thought too, but then i checked my film screencaps and found this one. I know this is one particular trooper but it's obviously screen-accurate :

You will find the e6000 really easy to remove by running a blade along the joint. And once one spot will begin to come off, the rest will follow very easily by just pulling the button plate away. And re-trimming it will also give you the chance to not sand the corners, so you're winning in both way by ungluing them.

Great looking armor, you should be EIB very soon! And very nice fit on the thighs . Why not making the same with the biceps, they feel quite roomy right now. About small details which could be improved, - you are wearing your arms reversed. - Your drop boxes straps are a bit too long. The top of the drop boxes should be right under the bottom of the ammo belt. - You can scrap off the white paint on the crotch rivet, this one was left unpainted.

Hum, i can't identify this piece neither... And that bugs me! It's hard to tell without any clues about the scale. Could it be Hero belt Stuff, like grappling hook? About the blaster, i think it's going to look really nice once finished

Looks much better!

The color under the black looks much more like burnished gold than what i thought! Cool share

Wow, that blaster is... glossy!

Just for your information, this armor isn't a NE. It's an AM, which i believe is scaled for larger people.

Usually this snap connects to a strap glued on the kidney plate, and then the belt finishes to close the side. You can of course add extra straps along this right side as long as they're not visible from the outside.

This is a feature that accurate armors have but some kits don't. It's better to have it, so yes, don't hesitate to re-create it with your shims

The Back is very much the same too. The guy just managed to lose the details on the "O" because of a very soft pull. All the others dimension, etc, are exactly the same.

I think those two pictures are pretty obvious, 1/16" looks so much better! And the pan-head screws look very nice too. Electronics aside, it could already be finished without this stupid metal receiver you have to paint And yeah, i too love the Converse Chuck Taylor and i have this pretty collector pair i love to wear even though it's not for dancing :

Humbrol takes about 6 hours minimum to be dried because it is a chemical reaction which make it dry. And sometimes it can take much longer (>24h!) so always check with the very tip of your finger before painting over.

I would remove those two portions of ABS before as it appears to be flash, and thus it should increase the width of the shim needed. Also, i can see that your side rivets will be mis-located if you set them this way. See this thread for a proper placement: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26886-split-rivet-placement/

Glad to hear an upcoming ROTJ, expecially from CfO! Good luck with the blaster, it will be the hardest

Having a look at Toybiz's build thread is clearly something i highly recommand! The way he managed the particular shape that the MTK left biceps has is excellent, along with the rest of his build: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26919-my-first-esb-tk-build-mtk/#entry340942

Just to be clear, the unassembled kit isn't the same kit used on the fully assembled picture, which btw isn't recommended too. This kit is clearly to be avoided.

Yeah, diving into an other costume is always crazy, especially with a difficult one as Darth Vader. Good Luck!