The5thHorseman

Your are still good with the width, i wouldn't take off more on the curved section though. Most of the ears on the originals are pretty thin in the end:

About the TD length the CRL specifiates "approximately" because there's no way all the TD on the film were 190,5 mm. So don't worry about that and keep up the excellent work you're doing .

According to me, the only way to reduce your gaps, around the rounded section of the ear and also around the curved section would be to trim your ear this way:

Don't worry, it's evenly enough. Those pre-drilled holes RS armors have, are from the rivets locations on the Original suit they have recast so they are accurate. About the rivets for the thigh's ammo pack, you can indeed use the same split rivets used on the left side and be Centurion approvable. However, for accuracy they should be CAP rivets with a 7mm head.

Oh, i didn't know you now own the molds Derrek, i missed that while i was away from the web!! That's a great acquisition, congratulations . I often feel the envy to order one from you because your kits are awesome, but i really need to stay focus on an other project at the moment...

20mm for the front and back cover stripes is the most accurate, though 25mm at the back is commonly accepted if you feel like you need more surface for the glue to hold.

Looks good, well done! And you put the tube stripes the good way, it's kind of rare Just don't forget to paint the ears screws in white and the black ear bars rank.

I don't believe it a second. The 501st is too much of a huge asset in promoting the Star Wars license all over the world. I don't see why they would prevent themselves from this great opportuny of free advertising for these new films by forbidding us to replicate and wear the costumes from them.

Yes, you can trim the forearms cover stripes at the top so they follow the line of the forearm. It won't hurt the accuracy and should ease your movements when bending your arms: About the thighs, the inner halves are curved in a "S" shape at the top to fit better with the cod. Once you got the two inner halves, finding the matching pairs should be easy.

I like that point of view . Vintage always draws the crowd, it's like looking straight at the history.

Holster's mandatory for approval.

Just checked your thread but couldn't find your post(s) about your thighs so i can't tell you if you used the good ones. Anyway, rivets are silver CAP rivets with a 7mm-ish head:

Accuracy would require CAP rivets.

You can apply for basic 501st approval without blaster. However you will need it if you want to obtain the EIB and Centurion FISD badges.

Well, looking at it again, i you indeed have them right! Apologies for almost misleading you...

Here are my thoughs about the shins: edit So it seems you have them paired right but you placed the left one on the right leg.

That's what i call a good fit!! The height of the thighs seems good but as Ian says, you will be able to finalize it only when you will have the torso on at the same time. I know you aren't going to like it and that it will keep bothering you, but don't worry about the shins' gaps. As they are oriented inward, no one will ever notice it from the back and neither from the side as then the other shin will be in the way and hide it. About the drop boxes, how do you keep the inner boxes secured inside the outer?

Can't really say with your arm bent like that... The rule is: there should be no gap at all between the bottom of your biceps and the top of your forearm, no matter everything else. Once you got the biceps and forearm strapped together like that, you basically just need to adjust the height of the bicep until the biceps/forearm junction is located at your elbow.

Nice job, all done like it should be! And indeed removing more ABS from the return edge is a very good way to improve the flexibility if you ever need it.

Which then kind of reinforce the fact it might be a real scope that has been cast and from which several resin pulls have been made

The corners are cut just over 45 degree. Trim 10mm in from the top and bottom, and 13mm in from the sides. Most belts seem to have slightly more off the sides than the top and bottom. But before doing it, make sur your belt is rightly trimmed leaving no extra ABS above the top and bottom of the boxes:

Like Nick says.

You can take off more on every ones, except maybe the smallest one on the right hand side.

Everything looks excellent, and i think you did well sizing down the holster. And don't worry about being 2mm off, nobody cares (except you ) ! However, the corners of your ab button plates are too rounded, they should be at a 90° angle:

We know that all the scopes weren't real ones on the film and i've always thought that scopes with extra material at the top were in fact resin ones. This extra material being in fact resin residue from the pouring spout used in the molds. And when you look at the scope lens from the scene just before (it seems to be the same trooper) it looks like it is flat black to me, even though this is kind of hard to tell. About the piece of wire from the hengstler to the power cylinders, check out PlayfulWolfCub's work. He talks about it in one of his .pdf linked in his signature: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/