The5thHorseman

Hey Diana, thank for keeping us updated. Congratulation on your first troop, and despite the fact your armor is not perfect yet, that's still crazy how good you look! Did anyone notice it was a woman under the helmet? And don't forget to add a D-ring to your Hyperfirm in order to be able to obtain EIB and so on Centurion

Perhaps you could write RS Prop and ask them about buying one of their strapping package: http://www.rspropmasters.com/accessories/

If that was my armor i wouldn't trim it. First because it would alter the original lines, second because i don't think ot would increase their fit. In fact, if i were to modify something on your biceps, it would be their sizing, right now they (or at least the left one) seem too wide regarding your arm.

As Mathias says, your armor is certainly not an AM but clearly a NE. Also, trying to fit the shoulder bell without the whole torso put on, and without the strap which goes around the biceps, won't reflect the final fit.

Of course you can use a different and stronger glue if you want. But if the problem persists it will be a one-shot try as you won't be able to remove your cover strip if there are still gaps after gluing. Perhaps using stronger magnets and also wider than the cover strip width could be the solution.

Lol, smallest picture ever! It looks good, but the left ear seems quite thick.

To gain some mobility when walking you can notch both the bottom of thighs and top of shins like on the picture below: A great ressource for Fans would be ECHO's ones: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24372-fs-helmet-fan-system-echos/ Also, i can see that your ammo thigh pack isn't properly set. If you're planning to go for Centurion one day you will need to modify it. Both rivets go through the upper corner of the knee belt wings to the bottom ridge of the thigh. Then you can glue the front to avoid shifting if you want. Rivets are painted white. And if the ammo knee belt makes a 45° angle with the thigh it doesn't matter, it just happens sometimes. Like the one on the right of the picture below:

For the shoulder bells there is no clear right way to wear them, but to me there's one which makes them closing better in the front. I find that they close better when the more rounded side of the shoulder bell is facing the front, like the trooper below: -------------

Looks ok, you didn't make the mistake to oversize them . And the vertical buttons plate is good too. In fact the only thing a little off is the fact you have sanded the corners. They should have been kept at a 90° angle. But that's a common mistake, i did the same :

Clearly a very nice cut! You have done the hardest

I clearly disagree with you on that.

This one is a Bapty and the magazine is a lot different. You can see that there's no magazine cover, nor there's a clip pin. The cut is different and the mag is held thanks to a wooden dowel which is inside the magazine. Here's the same blaster from a side view:

Well 45 degrees is an easier and faster way than to say " trim 10mm in from the top and bottom and 13mm in from the sides. Most belts seem to have slightly more off the sides than the top and bottom", it gives a good and quick representation of how it should be cut. Also keep in mind that when the armors were assembled there's no chance that the guys were measuring at the mm accuracy how they were cutting the corners. So a certain room is given when you are cutting yours to represent the randomness of the assembly.

Actually that's kind of a good reference: However it is possible only with accurately wide enought ammo plastic belts. I don't know if the AP ammo belt would be wide enought. And if the ammo belt doesn't really extend beyond the edges of the canvas belt, i would use these measurements i read from TrooperMaster some time ago: trim 10mm in from the top and bottom and 13mm in from the sides. Most belts seem to have slightly more off the sides than the top and bottom

if you ever considerate going for Centurion, your buttplate will need to show two male snap at the crotch tab like on the armors below: The buttplate sitting regarding the kydney plate is good. It's hard to get better with snap plates. As for the shoulder bells, if you shorten the straps which go from the bells to the shoulder bridges it will help closing the front gaps.

Lol, even watching it again now, and knowing what to look for i can't see it. But perhaps it's because i cannot fully understand you as "bend" is an irregular verb and you misconjugated it: bend/bent/bent (who said i'm looking for excuses ?) Edit: i finally got it! indeed there's a little bend

Very nice way to fit the original folding stock to the Doopydoo. Quite ingenious And indeed that workshop is a killer workshop!

I guess you have your answer Ronny

Do you think they used the original Sterling mechanism to setup their blank firing system? In this case no doubt it should be kept

I don't think there would be a clear pic to prove it, but it's most likely supposed to be there. I don't see any reasons to explain why they would have removed it.

I never thought i'd read that one day... On your picture, there's one wonderful helmet, the RS one, and one, let's be honest, ugly helmet, the efx. As you're new you're perhaps not familiar with how original helmets looks. Here's an original HERO helmet on the picture below, and you can see that there's a world between it and the efx one. The whole general shape on the efx is just wrong compared to it. Regarding the ear screws, they are required for second the level of approval. But yes, for basic 501st approval they aren't required.

Will you get both Stunt and Hero molds?

Thanks for feeding us with these great reference pictures Aaron! And i agree with him about the trigger, your spring looks just too long.

I would "dye" for it

From what i've understood, ANOVOS picked up the licenses from Museum Replica last year. Wait and see as you say, but this Luke's Bespin suit looks really beautiful. It's one of the rare Rebel costume i'd like to have.