The5thHorseman

Thanks guys! That should do perfectly. And here's a little update on the ETA: - 3D modeling: 100% - Splitting and optimizing: 100% - Hardware listing: 100% - Exporting files in a 3D printable format: 100% - "Directions" .pdf: 90% - Uploading: 50% - FISD topic creation: 70%

- 3D modeling: 100% - Splitting and optimizing: 100% - Hardware listing: 100% - Exporting files in a 3D printable format: 100% - "Directions" .pdf: 50% - Uploading: 0% - FISD topic creation: 0% I'm getting very close to finally finish these First Order quadnoculars now, perhaps even by the end of the week. But right now, I'm in need of your help! I am looking for this picture in high and clear resolution to illustrate my "Directions" .pdf: I've searched a bit on Google but with no real luck. So if any of you has it, or have the Visual Dictionary and a good scanner, I would be very grateful if you could post it here. Cheers, T5H.

Just a thought, why not turn it into a TLJ blaster? This would dramatically reduce the number of molds required, the time involvement needed, and cost too.

I made my First Order forearms in PETG and I had no problems painting them. As long as the prepping job is done well, there shouldn't be any issue. However sanding PETG isn't easy indeed, but not that much more than PLA which doesn't take sanding well either.

Two MGC?!? Wow, I wasn't prepared for that, this is awesome. Now who ever Frankenstein-ed the first one with L2A3 parts should definitely be banned from the SW community! What a terrible thing to do... However too bad I didn't know you were looking for one because I just happened to see two RO72 going for sale, but the auctions are finished now.

All those parts, and all this sanding... It's bringing out memories to me! I know what you're going through Daniel ;). But you seem to be done with most of it now. And yes when I started sharing these files, I quickly found out that I had to make the blaster "idiot-proof" like you say, because I realized unless you have spent as much time as I have studying this blaster, all those parts can be very confusing. However, let's not forget I've been tweaking with this 3D model for over three years now! So let's just say I've had quite some time to think this over and make it work .

I like that tip to report lines! I never thought of using a compass as a protractor. I'll try to remember that from now on.

Good call. I really like bolts, but there's nothing wrong with doubling them with glue. And nice work with the electronics. We're not enough to go that extra-step (I know I didn't! :D)

Few more pictures from another fun troop the 16th.

Mighty First Order presence from France, the 13th.

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Spoiler Alert. . . . . . Speaking of weapons, the TLJ Phasma CRL could also include a black SE-44C blaster.

One thing to do could be to differentiate the chrome finish between TFA and TLJ. I guess you could add in the level 2 or 3 for the TFA CRL that the chrome should be weathered and grimmy, when the TLJ chrome should be immaculate. Same thing goes for the blaster finish. TFA has a silver, yellowish finish, when her blaster in TLJ is chromed in the same way that her armor. Also, in TLJ Phasma lost her upper shins and has regular stormtrooper spats instead. And I think remembering reading somewhere that the fingers were different too.

I see it all worked out for you so that's good, but one word of advice for the others. Be careful rinsing FDM prints, they are not watertight and some of it will seep in and stay inside the part unless you dry them. But then PLA prints are very sensitive to heat and can get very easily warped. I had the issue with WD40. While test-fitting parts, two of them got dead stuck together and I had to soak them with WD40 in order to get them apart. Some of it seeped inside and they kept smelling and oozing WD40. However, wetsanding is fine of course. As you apply paint before any wetsanding, it improves the watertightness of the part and you don't get any issues.

Thank you everyone for the kind words. That was fast! Great news and you're welcome for the tip.

Good luck! If I'm not mistaken this is my very latest version you have there. That's gonna be a beautiful blaster.

Have you tried reaching out to the blizzard force? Jon Watson who is the CRL model, created an even better backpack and took fantastic pictures of it for the CRL. Perhaps you could ask the DL to borrow them. http://databank.501st.com/databank/File:BACKPACK_PRIMARY_CRL.jpg

Is it the final print? Because a lot of details are lacking, and they seem super small. Here'a link to an album of the 3D model I made quite some time ago now (never finished it though). Maybe you'll be able to pick up some new details there in order to improve the accuracy of your model. https://www.flickr.com/gp/101325601@N03/ozzcp7

Hi FISD, Few weeks ago, I’ve finished a long overdue project I debuted a while back, and wanted to create this thread to share with you all about the whole creation process of this First Order backpack. I truly love this backpack. Whoever designed it did a fabulous job updating the OT pack while keeping its spirit intact. First of all, using only reference pictures, I modeled the backpack. I finished my 3D model the third of March 2016, so quite a while back and didn’t realize I kept this project lingering for so long now. 3D modeling WIP. Finished 3D model. The 3D model was then split into several printable pieces and 3D printed in PLA. The side panels could have been printed in fewer parts but I chose to break them down into three different sub-units to ease the smoothing job: outer frame, inner frame, and greeblies. Right-hand panel. Same process for the left-hand panel. First side panel smoothed out. My face when I realized I had to do it all over again for the left panel. Two close-ups of before and after smoothing. Second side panel done. I initially intended not to bother, but in the end I reckoned I had to clean the junction line between the outer and inner frame for both side panels. Next on the list was the bottom panel. This bottom panel was then welded to both side panels to create the backpack frame. The backpack frame. After that I smoothed the junction lines between the three different parts to blend them into one. Once the frame was done, I moved on to the back panel. The holes, letterbox openings, and vertical slits are matching similar ones present on my backplate so the backpack can be secured and the harness straps fed through them. Close-up of the twenty-two ‘piano keys’, as I like to call them. Last of the main parts to smooth was the front panel. Once finished with the body of the backpack (frame + rear and front panels), the only things left were the various greeblies starting with the top cover. To make sure I would not glue this top cover out of place, I designed a tooth on each side to help me aligning it with the backpack frame. The ‘exhaust port’. And finally to finish with the greeblies, and the tedious smoothing job: the two clasp greeblies, various buttons, switches, vents cover, etc… Test fit of the left panel. Before starting with the paintjob, I decided to join together the backpack frame and the rear panel. The whole weight of the backpack was going to pull on this junction point, so to make sure the bond would be strong enough and withhold the weight I welded them together. If you ever wondered how those backpacks were generating heat to keep their trooper warm, there’s one like that into each unit. Once ready I hung up all the parts with wire, prepped them, and laid on the white. After the white was dry, it was time for quite the challenging masking job. Fortunately I know few masking tricks that made my job much easier than what it could have been. Still I wish I had had a vinyl cutter to let the computer do the job for me. Once everything masked, I airbrushed the gloss black. Left panel: Same process for the right panel: And again for the front panel. The front panel also has small black squares and one rectangle that I believe are made out of vinyl instead of paint. I’m leaning toward vinyl because on reference pictures the black doesn’t seem to have a gloss finish but rather satin, however I’m far from being dead positive about it. These are so small, they were very hard to cut. Once again the vinyl cutter would have been most helpful here. With a brush I painted the inside of the pill openings in the four side switches with gloss black. And then glued all the greeblies with e6000… …except the ‘exhaust port’ which is secured from the inside with two M4 screws. The black inside the exhaust port is also satin vinyl instead of gloss paint. Finished right panel, and nearly finished left panel. Strangely, the two top buttons of the left panel aren’t painted black but dark grey instead. The large black areas of the rear panel are also cut pieces of satin black vinyl. Final step was to glue the top cover with e6000. The finished First Order backpack. Of course this backpack I made is nowhere near perfect and it has plenty of kinks and defects, but the experience I gained at every level with this project is massive and I’m thankful for that. On another matter, I would also like to thank all the guys who take pictures of the exposed original costumes, and then take the time to upload and share them with us. To be honest, without them it would be impossible for me, and all of us, to push the limits of accuracy always farther. And as always thanks for reading. T5H.

I understand your feeling Darren. You know, to some people being the world's first justifies anything, even cheating their way up top.

Of course, and believe me I understand that it still requires work. I'm just a bit bitter because so far I had to struggle for all my 3D models with reference pictures only, which takes twice more time, and makes things harder when it comes to interpret details. Actually, if someone was ripping the F-11D model from Battlefront II, he could probably create a better blaster model than mine in less than a week of work and without even bothering with reference pictures. Also, I took a look at all the pictures you posted over the RPF, and my only advice would be to make the yoke proper. Instead of how you have it now (ANOVOS v1 style) it should be full across the chest like a second, inner chestplate.

Won't say I'm impressed. Basically, all the most challenging and difficult work of proportions and shapes was done only thanks to the game model. At least you're honest about it.

I agree that precising the nature of the black should be left to Level 3 and not Basic. And like Darren said, I'd be much surprised if it was gaffer tape. Best to leave it until more info comes out. Even though I don't think there will be many shots on the thermal detonators, and even more close-ups, in the film.

I tried matte sticker for the markings on the snowtrooper armor (shoulder bell and helmet) and it looked way off. So given that all decals on the snowtrooper armor are satin, that the decals on the stormtrooper helmet are satin, etc..., I would tend to think that they used the same material everywhere and that satin is the way to go.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43415-changes-to-the-fotk-crl/