gmrhodes13

It's more for the screen accuracy, if you are going to troop a lot I would advise using the snap system as there is strain put on the edges of the armor with the bracket system.

Not once it's fully dried, normally a week or 2

For those that have not seen, our DL has given the green light to a FO version FISD patch and it is in the merch queue https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40583-official-detachment-logo-variation-proposal/

A FO only shirt version example

I had a fellow member scan them for me, I'll just post the links to them as one is 25mb in size Color https://imgur.com/uNWyFDw Greyscale https://imgur.com/yBxe1C2

Nice work. In case you have any issues with the snaps rubbing on the armor and leaving marks you could just cover them with some tape.

Hello and welcome aboard, there are a couple of R1 builds you can find them here that will also give you the answer to question 2

Great news, nothing better than a BBB, do your research and you can't go wrong, measure twice and cut one, good luck with the build

Nice work, good luck with approval

Nice work good luck with approval

WOW can't wait to see this one finished. This is the best I have but I'll ask around if anyone else can help out.

In the Costuming and Builds section there are build areas for TFA armor you could start a build thread here For TLJ here

Just because someone else is working on a similar project does not mean you can not continue with yours, you may find you have more of an eye for the details. Have you started a build thread? would be nice to share your work in progress and some photos. This program is more for the completed costume before GML approval, a work in progress build thread is just the place to show off your work and receive feedback

If you will notice on the below image the screw holes end up almost vertically and the angle of the lower half of the ear angles backwards If looking at the helmet from the back as you wear wearing it, your image the one on the left is the left ear and one on the right is the right ear.\ 13 tube stripes is optimal but you can have less or more, from the CRL: Tube stripes are medium blue, should be 13 per side, but can be 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

A LATE INCLUSION RACING SHIRT ORDER THREAD HAS BEEN POSTED For those of you who have already shown interest in purchasing, the thread is live, follow this link

I use Imgur for photo hosting, it is free, just make sure when you have uploaded your photos you post the DIRECT LINK into your forum post

Great work troopers, another 200 to reach that goal

There are a list of screws in Germain's 3D print files, just look for the directions PDF and they are in there, here is the link to his page

I actually used automotive acrylic paint as the finish it gives a satin look especially when you don't clear coat. On my second blaster I used gloss paints which where easier to obtains then went over with a satin clear.

You may find those are a little hard on your head if you are trooping for a long time, I tried some high density foam and ended up transferring it for a soft foam If it works for you then great

The "Dave M" decals and templates are just a more screen accurate look, they are also required for L3 BUT a trick I found which some have used is if the lines are painted too straight (or you have decals that are straight) is to go over with a black permanent marker, it's like colouring in a paint by numbers in reverse, you want to go over the lines

Awesome, thanks for sharing

Really depends how thick the spray paint is, it is always better to light sand pipe before applying any paint, I normally try to use a little finer if I'm not using a primer first, 400 grit doesn't leave any sanding marks. Even using a pot scourer would doo, it's really just to give the paint something to help adhere too. Depending on how tight the end caps are you may want to tape the ends of the pipes before you paint

Looking good. I use a dremel for pretty much everything, well almost, I have 3 as I'm too lazing to change the tips They do need some practice and they are always better if you can hold and rest on a leg or surface to keep straight. Old school marking and cutting with a hacksaw will do just as well. If you need too wrap some sandpaper around a block of wood just to take sand out flat any imperfections in the cuts

The only downside we find with the self adhesive Velcro here is that with the warm the glue tends to leg go and leave a really sticky mess There used to be an automotive product I used years ago and not sure if it is still around called flock, would leave a fine fur finish, just looking and seems it's still around, I may have to try something like this one day.