gmrhodes13

Good luck

Just remember Luke and Han's suits are deemed HERO versions so some characteristics on those may not fit a STUNT version

Thanks for the feedback guys, we agree on most of the changes so I don't think a vote would be needed on every one of them, but please let me know if you disagree or I have missed anything? Those that have a question mark over them are those which could be modified making the TKC a little closer to what we see on OTTK's and not necessarily to the designers impression so not 100% game accurate. I will show alternate wording in purple if you could please give your preference to either green or purple on each of those. They are as follows: Abdomen Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Kidney Posterior Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Belt: GREEN or PURPLE Thigh Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Holster: GREEN or PURPLE Suggested changes are in green. Alternative changes are in purple Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face). Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Blue stripe continues over brow trim Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. REMOVE OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). REMOVE Upper Arm Armor Biceps are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. Biceps/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Forearm Armor Forearms are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Forearms/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Forearms use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Hand Plates ANH Hand plates are ANH styled, mounted securely of the back of the glove, As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, and permanently affixed to rubber gloves (no straps). Back Armor Back plate contains a "O II" design. A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Back plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version. Abdomen Armor Ab plate buttons shall be all black. Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ab plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate) . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. OR There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. REMOVE Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate) . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney & Posterior Armor A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor). Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. REMOVE There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mmfrom the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. OR Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. REMOVE There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. OR Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. Belt can be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Leather and vinyl are not accurate. There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. The center square button is not accurate. Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Drop boxes are closed in the back. The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white. Thermal Detonator ROTJ Or Game (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh, The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references. The thigh ammo belt is NOT rounded off like ANH. The thigh ammo is glued and has NO rivets. OR The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt can be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references or attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.. The thigh ammo belt can either be straight or rounded off like ANH. Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Greaves/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Lower Legs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots are lightly scuffed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The two stripes curving over the boots are accurate in proportion to official references. OPTIONAL: Holster Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners). OR Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster can either be affixed by two black loops over the belt or attached via straps behind the belt using fasteners already present

Great work, some nice detailing, well done.

Agree with Tony, the low brow look is more the hero version, stunts have some white showing under the brow trim, some great references here http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm You may also want to straighten the sides of the vocoder, they are quite angled. Also match up the directions your mic tips are pointing.

It’s not really washing it’s more soaking in hot water and it really depends on what sections and if they actually need any heat at all. Using heat on ABS is tricky and does need some practice before you jump right in I suggest that you continue to build everything and post images of areas you think may need some heat shaping, I’m sure you’ll get all the responses needed ASAP

You don’t need any return edge on the front or back of the forearms so I’d personally be more inclined to match up the fronts and trim the rear, but that’s me

Apart from what has already been pointed out I would also advise to add a little heat to your shoulder straps at the back as they are sticking up a bit. Also you could straighten the paint on the top of the vocoder, it’s a little on a slant. Lastly it appears you you have some black strapping on the back between the butt plate and thighs which is not normally there. Some minor tweaks and I’m sure you’ll get through, good luck

It's on the top menu go across to Gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ There are several folders, general reference, screen captures, costume parts and so on. It's a great section to go to when you are stuck, just don't add rivets on the coverstrips, that was an on set quick fix

Once you have sanded as flat as you can try using some finer sandpaper, 600, 1200 and then ultrafine, it will help to get rid of the scratches the course sandpaper left. Also use an automotive cutting compound will help to bring the shine back

I also sewed my together, it's a lot easier to put on and troop in

When in doubt you can always check the gallery for references. Also you want as little a gap as you can between the bottom ridges as they aren't covered with the strips so they do stand out, if you do have a gap you can always glues a strip of abs behind

Great progress, it's always good to have others experienced eyes on hand to guide you. A shame you won't be going for the higher levels at this stage but you never know you could change your mind later Keep up the great work.

We have not received anymore feedback so we are just about set, there are a couple of things I would like to discuss first. A: How true to the game do we want to be, some have commented privately that they would prefer the knee ammo strip to kept at the same placement as OTTK's and not higher above as shown in references. The drop boxes are also positioned towards the end of the belt. I can understand this especially if you wanted to convert an old set of OTTK armor to a TKC. BUT this also brings up should the ab side rivets also me changed to match a OTTK? B: I have also noticed the plastic section of the belt is a lot longer than standard OTTK's but I doubt any armor makers are making them to the same length, additionally the outside square covers are positioned close to the ends of the belts. So again the question is how true to the game do you think it should be References: Do we want to closely match the game but also incorporate realistic TK items ie standard belt, knee ammo placement etc. Or Do we want to match the game 100% Thoughts? Be interested in your opinions @magni, @giskard8 & of course also from our DO's

Nice work, coming along great

Don’t stress too much, at least you know you will get your armor soon, unlike a lot waiting for Anovos kits for over 2 years. Hang in there, there’s always other things to do to keep busy, research, making snap plates, blaster builds and so on. It willl soon be with you and then you can enjoy the moment of panic when you realise you have to make the first cut

I tend to use quite a lot more magnets which seems to do the trick, the more the merrier. Also wrapping the blue tape completely around on itself can help, only using strips they can loose tightness.

Walking up stairs in normally a challenge, if you can turn your legs out it can help. Some do do cut out sections in the rear of thighs and top of claves but I find I can deal with it, not often we use stairs

Congratulations trooper

I wasn’t happy with mine so I gave it a little heat on both sides and twisted and held until it cooled. Heat is one of things you have to be careful with though. You can also cut a little notch under the front so it sits central over the cover strip. Definately use as much securing as you can, tape, magnets, clamps As Tony stated it’s perfectly acceptable to be a little wonky

Looks a lot crisper, still not sure how these are supposed to be built without the use of bondo and paint, just tape them together Incidently I could never get a straight answer from Anovos in regards to them claiming no paint or Bondi would be required. I do like that chest under section though drool

You can find a list of UKG command staff contacts here

Many of us get so carried away in building that we forget to take some photos (except Tony of course)