gmrhodes13

Very nice, just wondering if you have tried taking a flic button apart? If you could add a thinner push switch to run to the fingers may be a little easier to operate, will keep the palms free to high five and hold blaster .

Generally we try to match the fronts to same size which is normally 20mm thighs and shins but as you can see from the screen reference posted by Paul 25mm is fine at the front (also the back) just don't add rivets

Looks like it could be Spec Ops, they are doing some research there.

Only had a few minutes spare, couldn't find the exact font

Also don't paint the upper corner ab snap

Hello and welcome aboard, I've managed to purchase a couple from shop closing down sales, may be worth keep an eye there. If they have removable arms and legs it can make it easier to dress them .

Great news, fingers crossed one is heading your way

I always sand before gluing, as Rat said it gives the glue something to grip too, you don't need to go right to the edges as long as you sand the majority of the pieces.

Simple answer polish, depending on how dull or scratched it is will depend on what polish/compound you use. Try with something gentle (fine) first but for heavy scratches/dull areas use a compound polish then finish with a fine polish. This thread may be of help

Very nice work, well done

Great work. The rear also gets a cover strip and is glued same as the front, you can add an inner cover strip too for added strength, most don't, although it is a good idea inside the shins as they are continually open and closed . I would do a trial fit before trimming out any extra room in the backs of the legs, sometimes you can have too much room, but if you have way too much material and are 100% sure you can trim then here are some references

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

I added one to my DLT19 for the R1 cinema release but not to my E-11 as yet. Was made from a $2 shop torch and some plastic fittings I had lying around, also a twist knob from an old router

I do like having a light on my F11D, makes it easy to see your keys in the door lock

Great news, now the wait begins, time to do some build research, go through the CRL (costume reference library) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt , reference gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ and also @justjoseph63 reference image depository https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/ Looking forward to seeing those BBB photos

I would think the same style as R1 but I may be wrong https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41271-rogue-one-e-11-blaster-reference/ If you read the ROGUE ONE E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE thread you'll see that the screen used flashlight is actually an airsoft replica of a 'SureFire' tactical flashlight. It's called an Element M300A Mini Scout Light. The difference is the real thing is worth around $300 while the airsoft knockoff costs around $50 or so. One thing to be sure about is that you buy one with the correct button guard variant. It should look like the one in this photo, the other kind with scalloped cut-outs is incorrect and not screen accurate.

Would be a lot of work but screen accurate to show a clear separation and would be needed for L3 Nice work with the cutting template. Really up to the DO's you could reach out to them for confirmation, you can see a separation in you chest plate but it is a little soft so wouldn't hurt to check. Depending how thick the ABS is you may be able to run a file (or sandpaper) down the recess to make it a little sharper, but I wouldn't attempt it unless it's really thick. If you do decide to cut and add backing to join back together just note there is no separations on the return edges

When the CRL was implemented there was only one vendor for the riot shield, then when more screen accurate images became available more suppliers came up with the rectangle design, I don't think you would have any issues with approval even with the CRL image but even if you did you could supply references to your GML or direct them to FISD's Detachment Leader

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Great work once again, good luck with approval, although I don't think you'll need it

You can purchase a new one, Icomm do sell them or others have been able to purchase locally http://store.voicebooster.com/replacement-icomm-battery/. Or there is a mod to add an outside battery, easy to charge and swap out then (photos still need an update @Sly11 )

Is there any way to make the Gallery tab on the top menu bar be stickied? Why I ask is when you reduce the screen size slightly it is moved under the "More" tab and many don't realise the gallery link is there

I'll see if that can be moved, in full computer version the gallery tab is separate but when you condense the screen it moves under the "more" tab

Have you checked the Gallery section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/27-tfa-tk-reference/