gmrhodes13

Once you have some approval photos you can post up in our pre approval area, although not official it can be a good way of getting any feedback or updates you may need before submitting to your GML (garrison membership liaison) as they look over your costume for legion approval

Correct I should have stated not in the CRL, only ones I have seen are from artwork or members with unapproved versions. Scope is different though in this one Correct scope and bipod Looks to be same figure/artwork I've held a metal version MG34 and there's no way I could have kept the front of the barrel up without a bipod Battlefront has bipod but no scope

Not sure why rear is written in the text but it's not in the EIB guidelines FYI if you check my last L2 and L3 approvals there are no rear belt images there (links in signature)

FYI you don't need an image of the rear of the belt, all that you need is a front on image. Details the DO's are looking for are: Holster placement Button cover placement Corners of plastic belt to meet fabric belt. Drop boxes aligned with end of plastic belt. Drop box strapping. You can check other photo requirements here

Really depends on how active staff is over the festive season. You could always reach out to their command via email: DL Tim Allen [email protected] DXO Roland Yap [email protected]

You can only bring them up so far and I found even at the highest point they still weren't snug so I added some blocks of foam inside my thighs as I have thin legs, having a piece either side of the leg also keeps them central.

Very nice. As noted previously It does depend on which version the member is making, standard pauldron (Game/ROTJ Style) has no stitching on the colored area while the (RO Style does have stitching Comparisons for anyone interested Game/ROTJ Style RO (The Mandalorian version) 3 panels

All appears to be looking good, nice work. Just for reference here is what the original helmets used

Don't think I've seen one with a scope for ROTK's, only for Death troopers (but i'm no Rogue One Guru) Some references here: There were a couple of DLT-19's and at least one with scope in Obi Wan but some carrying those where OTTK's owned by 501st members and not ROTK's specifically made for the series so would not be included in the CRL. HWT discussion thread Bottom right trooper DLT-19 with scope If you do find any references of Rogue One / Remnant troopers carry DLT-19's with scopes please post them up

Answered in your other post

Can't say I've seen those files or anyone finished or approved with them, that's not to say there hasn't been. This issue with 3D files is you really don't know how it will look or fit until you have printed it. There are a couple of builds not finished as yet with these files https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/other/star-wars-tlj-storm-trooperhelmet-chest-shoulder-armour-ep8 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51311-funkster’s-3d-printed-tlj https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49185-themaninthesuitcase-3d-printed-tlj-build/ Youngling size https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49118-crickets-3d-print-fotk-tlj-abs-kid-sized-finished/ Ultimately it is up to your GML (garrison membership liaison) for base 501st approval and also the file must closely follow the https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRLCRL (costume reference library). For higher levels L2 or L3 the DO's may chime in @Deployment Officer Team I recommend having a look around the build threads for any other 3D printed builds. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/222-costuming-and-builds-first-order-501st-approved/

Hello and welcome aboard you will find a lot of helpful folks. A great thread full of info https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/?do=findComment&comment=690980 Rogue One build area (post a thread so you can receive feedback on your build) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/196-rogue-one-build-threads/ RO Galley sections https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/21-starwars-story-reference/ Good luck with the build

I use 10mm foam in the top of the helmet, just feels a little nicer than just on bare plasic. Really it's what ever works for your, a thin piece on top and a thick block either side of the head I find enough, the blocks lock on your head and prevents wobbling. I tried using a hard hat liner when I first started and found it dug in places and was a little uncomfortable on long troops.

I doubt those would pass, elastic section should be rounder and further up on the boot Also did a quick look for boots in the sales are and nothing coming up in a 13. NOTE if purchasing from IB many go 1/2 to 1 size up.

Hello and welcome aboard, you could reach out to your local garrison/squad to check on armor workshops Here is a great thread full of info and tips Looking forward to seeing some images soon. Also here is a guide on adding images to our forum

Nice work Chris, just a couple of things you may want to address/improve upon. You could reduce the length of the elastic on your drop boxes. Belt could come up a bit, should sit on or just below the bottom button, also shouldn't see the fabric belt at the top front of the belt. There appears to be mold lines in your large ab plate, you may want to address these if going in to production. Also large ab plate on an angle. Something dark on the ridge of the AB button plate too. Between the ridges and buttons also looks a little wonky, there should also be a gap between the buttons on those ridges. Also note a little too much paint on a few of the buttons. Detonator tilted, right clip may be too long, could be rotated so the top detail can be seen, clip screws should be black. You could also trim the excess belt. Detonator details also look a little soft. Check the trim line on the bottom too looks a little wonky. Gap between the ab and kidney looks wobbly. Drop boxes should align with the ends of the plastic belt. Posterior looks to be overlapping the kidney. Also looks like you are using standard rivets not cap rivets and should be painted white. Helmet is sitting high, try to reduce padding thickness Shoulder strap elastic being pulled outwards, perhaps double over for extra strength. Shoulder bells could come in closer at the top. Ideally there should be the 1 large tab and 4 1/2 to 5 small ridges on the chest. Try to have shoulder straps centered on the back plate. Large tab could be cut down on the rear large ridge. Also when adding S trim start at either the middle front or rear of the helmet, just gives a cleaner look. You could also add a curve to the shoulder bells to reduce the gap to chest. Reduce the gap at the wrists, move wrist plates backwards. Not sure what's off with the cod, perhaps more of an angle on the sides, also soften/round the bottom Good luck with approval

That's something you may want to discuss with your GML (garrison membership liaison) as they will be looking after your application and photos. If you can darken the inside of the helmet that will help darken the inside and the lenses. I find I can only see through one spot in my bubble lenses, I tend to move the helmet around a lot more than my Stunt helmet.

Hello and welcome aboard, if it's a Sandy you are updating head to MEPD home of Sandtroopers http://forum.mepd.net/

You can also use water based acrylic paints, very cheap and will easily rub off with a polish

Sealing the inside of the armor is a great idea, I've done this on two of Jim's kits, I would advise trimming first, only as it can get pretty messy Nice looking spray booth, where there's a will there's a way

Hello and welcome aboard, another great thread full of info

Things can be a little tight in the helmet, some have modified lenses to fit, here's a few threads maybe of help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29798-wearing-glasses-while-in-a-bucket-the-real-reason-why-tks-cant-aim/?hl=%2Bwearing+%2Bglasses https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27948-eye-glasses-in-tk-helmet/?hl=%2Bwearing+%2Bglasses#entry353692 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19214-buckets-glasses/?hl=%2Bwearing+%2Bglasses

Looking better

Very cool find