gmrhodes13

Could I suggest using a better contrasting background, would help image editing a lot easier.

Ultimately this will be judged by your GML. I would think if no seam is visible (no recess areas) then it should be ok, although it would still not be completely flush. The abdomen section must wrap around the wearer's body without a visible seam.

Also when it comes to sanding down the ABS paste I found using different grades of wet and dry sandpaper helped, I do this with water and a few drops of dish washing liquid, this helps the paper glide a little more and not get as clogged as fast when dry sanding. Compound polish to bring the shine back up once sanding is finished

Very true, we did try to advise people early on what may need adjusting for legion approval, shame DN and their "Specialist Builders" couldn't address these areas prior to manufacturing, would have made so much easier for a lot of people

As noted in the picture I posted previously there are some oddities on some blasters compared to a standard blaster so that's something to take into account when using references

You can also cut your lens down to just a little bigger than the eye sockets, this allows a closer fit, I use silicon to hold mine in place. I mainly did this as my hero helmet is a lot smaller and the sheet of lens material would rub on my nose, no issues now though. A small gap can help airflow although installing fans will be even better. Good luck on your first troop

Nice work, looking forward to seeing you tackle the ABS paste filling, especially the ab and yoke. A good tip is thin coats and several of them, not as many air bubbles then which appear when the thinners is drying.

Nice work trooper, if you have any issues with adding images many of us us Imgur a free image host, upload there then copy and past the "direct link" of the images straight into your thread.

Many remove that bent area of the posterior

As Joseph mentioned the V tabs they are quite easy to make, strips of plastic heated and bent either with heat gun or placed in oven, use pliers and push the plastic over the kidney and posterior. Add glue to the kidney side and let the other side of the clip.float free so it still allows some movement. I find one on either end is enough but some also add extra ones in the middle.

Rules are check with your GML and also your GCO, they ultimately approve or deny costume pieces as well as either allow or deny the use of non CRL items to be used at events, some garrisons are tougher than others, some can be less strict. Comparison, extra piece on the rear

I think you will find there has not been one added as yet as we don't have anyone building one here, that and we don't have a finished Remnant trooper or a CRL, no doubt in time this should change as we pretty much see the remnant troopers with just about every shape and size of blaster. No reason an area couldn't be added, hopefully some may share their 3D files . Probably find some build info on Spec Ops as they house the Mud trooper and others who also use this weapon

And for anyone following this is one reason we use E6000, mistakes can happen but at least with this glue you have the chance to separate pieces without a great deal of work or cleanup, with a permanent glue there would be no chance. Looking forward to seeing round 2

Looking good

You are correct, well picked

Exactly right, see how it feels you can always trim a little more

Agreed, I'd go for the smudge, mine just covers the front with hardly any wrap under, you really want some room there for when you are messing and moving around, nothing worse than getting an armor bite down that neck of the woods

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing the progress

For basic approval you should be able to use either BUT for centurion Level 3, all ear screws must be "..slotted, flat-topped, countersunk and painted white". Note: The recommended screw head size is #6/32 (7mm), with a length between 3/4" to 1" (17 to 25mm).

Google translated previous post Miraculous video, it will be brown not only for the buddy, but also for the professional. Thanks for your work

A couple of references for you

I normally use Dave M decals from trooperbay. A lot of people have steadier hands than I and paint, masking the area first can help and if you paint a coat of white first it will fill in any bleed areas and not stand out. I use a sharpie just to clean up wobbly lines, there are different sharpies and shades.

Great to hear, congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper. FYI you can request higher TK access here:

Car putty won't be strong enough, I normally rough up the area with coarse sandpaper then glue (not E6000 as it's not strong enough) a piece of ABS plastic behind to add some strength back. Some use superglue and fabric, some use resin and fibreglass, some JB weld as that is sandable, really up to what you have and want to use.