gmrhodes13

You can always remove the snap, glue a piece of scrap ABS behind, fill hole with ABS paste, sand, polish and redrill. You could be ok for base approval (depending on your GML) but higher levels it will be noted.

Looking forward to seeing some photos

Not that I'm aware, DO's may have something.

Just on snaps I do suggest for any areas that may encounter strain to double up, having two on my shoulder bell saved me from not be able to troop as on of the snaps pulled through the elastic, having the spare was a saving grace

I have a playlist that's memorised, 5 phrases, with a "this is the way" in between each, I can cycle through from memory, one switch goes play next, the other switch stop or start, you can press switch multiple times to get to a phrase required or just let it run. Remote finger switches have elastic wrapped around so they stay in position. Remote switches are very small without the casings, can't find the exact picture this one is similar. The remote switch is just larger than a cr2032 battery.

Hi Carrie you can't access the sales sections until you have a minimum of 5 posts on this forum. In regards to price, really what ever you can get for it, the armor has discoloured quite a lot, using some Ret0bright may help bring it back to the original color, no guarantees but it worked on my 10 year old helmet that yellowed on the cap. It could also be used for a Death (zombie) trooper as they get a lot of weathering. You could try advertising it though your local garrison, you can find them here I hope you have success with the sale

Stormtroopers don't wear these types of caps so we won't be able to assist you

Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and also the Expert Infantry Honor Gallery

Aker amp with a static burst Icomm unit. If you wanted specific phrases you'd need an mp3 player and finger switches, I have finger.remote switches for my Mandalorian costume. https://voicebooster.com/products/icomm-imperial-communication-system Lots of TK.sound files out there https://www.soundboard.com/sb/stormtrooper_sounds

Entirely up to your GML as they are the ones who approve or deny any legion costume or prop, BUT if you go by the CRL: E-11 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster Note: a blaster is not required for base Legion approval

Must be one of these (or similar, they came out in many different versions) Doopy Doo's used to do an upgrade kit to bring the blaster up to L2 specs, unfortunately no longer supplying them, they wouldn't make centurion L3 either You can check out my build here There are still options, printing some updated pieces or making from scratch, has been done before, you can actually find full files for the E-11 if needed.

When it comes to the rear make sure you size with boots, socks and pants on, can make a huge difference, also think about the closure, if you use velcro that will make them a bit tighter

Old trick with shoes was to stuff with crunched up wet newspaper, then leave to dry, this would expand the leather a little. Not sure if you could use the same method with a blaster and holser, wrap wet newspaper around the blaster, may work

Bottom return edge remove, also many remove that tab, you don't want an armor bite down there, that's for sure

Nice work

Wearing inner cloth gloves make the rubber gloves nicer to wear. I go through a few pairs of inners at a troops, soaks up the sweat so it's nice to swap with a clean pair between breaks

I have found scrap pieces of plastic or trimmed pop sticks (frozen icecream sticks) can save your thumbs if you have a lot of glue to remove. Clean up with a slightly damp rag, it's the friction that helps break the glue away

New addition to the CRL's perhaps: Brow trim should not contain visible lines

And just in case it hasn't been said previously, make sure you rough the surfaces with coarse sandpaper, will help the glue to grip a little more. You'd be amazed on how much a tiny dab of E6000 can grip, especially in places you've added too much and you are trying to clean up

It always amazes no mater how many ways you think something can be done you find someone else has a different method

Either should work as they are very contrasting

I found different acetones dry differently and can leave A LOT of air bubbles and I ended up finding it was best to apply in light coats. Most fillers I've tried are an off white so you still need to apply paint. On the early Anovos kits we had a lot of areas we had to modify and fill so it was easier just to paint the whole armor. Not sure if anyone has tried matching the DN armor as yet, the Anovos paint was found to be this, not sure how close it will be DN may be using a different supplier For small areas I found I could mix some colors to get a close to shade, I then use an air brush to feather the paint when applying, using compound polish can help bring back the shine.

Hello and welcome aboard, here's a great info thread may help you on your way Good luck looking forward to seeing the progress

You can also recess the back of the snap with a little heat so it will lay flat when glue is applied