Evilboy

After the "metal" paint has dried fully (that is important) take some basic white toothpaste (the cheapest you can find will do) and smear daubs of it across the areas you want the "metal" paint to show through, ie: edges and other high wear areas. Then paint the final coats as you usually would and once those are fully dried (again, important) you just take a soft, damp, cloth and wipe away the toothpaste, revealing the paint below. keep wiping with a damp cloth until all the toothpaste is gone. I would then dry brush some black or gunmetal grey paint across the metal paint to give it the worn look, and then you can apply a sealing coat of clear lacquer, either matt or gloss, depending on your preference. I hope this helps!

Looking good!

Ok, I thought something was fishy when I saw that. at least it's not just me...

That is horrific, in all the wrong ways...

HA! That's good. Any chance someone could post the coordinates for this place, or a link to it on Google Earth?

Looks good! I would definitely assemble the two parts of the stock, then fill and sand. That is the best way to make sure it looks like one unit, as it is supposed to, as apposed to trying to get it to sit right...As for the glue, since you are using E6000, use more. it will clean off easily, and that way you will not have to worry if it's enough...and once it squishes out the edges, you can smooth it with your fingers or a small caulking tool to get that same "welded" look...

So the bottles are from some old model Tanker truck? Probably a 1/16th fuel tanker...like an old AMC or Ertl...Interesting...These guys were the kings of kitbashing for all kinds of stuff...

Wow. Awesome Blaster Work! I am most impressed...

I have seen threads on the 501st, and at the RPF, discussing these various mods individually but not all together. I would imagine it is do-able, but would require some knowledge of electronics (arduino maybe?) and a lot of time to design/program the board to run the functions. maybe have one ear control the various audio input/output options, and the other for video. then the AB buttons could be choice switches (channels a, b, etc.) a combination of infrared and bluetooth should should accomplish the wireless aspects. I am more a planner than an engineer, so i will be following this closely, as I really like the concept...

PP Sent. I would also like to donate one of my Helmet Fan Kits for her armor, if that will fit. I could also do a modified kit for her if needed. Let me know.

I was going to say, I put them low in the bottom area pointing up, similar to this, in my ATA, and, while it takes a teensie bit of work, I get it on with fairly easily...----------------

I am gobsmacked. Astounding work mate...

yup...I wondered when I saw that. Glad it was not just me...

That, my friend, is a loaded question...I will just go with T-Track...as i need some...

I am so sorry for all who knew him. Rest in peace Brother, the stars await you...

Very nice

OMG NO. Run, Run away!

I would like to say that I do plan to get white armor, and a TD eventually as well...

I am a Shadowtrooper. I LOVE the armor. If you go with the black ABS, like I did, then you should be fine. I have some scratches and scrapes here and there, but they buff right out with plastic polish.But, yeah, go to SpecOps!

If I jump in white paint, can I get in on this?

EPIC!

Outstanding mod! I will have to try this...

Looking Good Brother. Can't wait to see more!

Well, when you have your bucket on and someone (a new squire for instance) is handing your blaster back to you at CVI and does not make sure that it is fully in your grasp before they let go because they are (understandably) distracted by EVERYTHING...then you drop your blaster...

BRILLIANT! I will be doing this post-haste!