Darth Voorhees

I built this as per the parts it came with and from reference i could find. I kept seeing 2 different versions. Ive seen them with and without the modded nozzle and dring and mount. i believe this would be the promo version. But id like it to be the stunt so...Ok, so i dont understand a couple of the things you mentioned Vern. Mind you i have minimal knowledge if guns in general 1-you need to have the flat spot near the bayonet lug - not sure where this is..do you men the lug on the barrel for the folding stock? or something else? 2-the proper location for the door catch and asprin. - im not even sure what those parts are lol 3-flathead screws on the clips and door catch - where exactly do i put these screws? Do you mean the greeblies? seriously bro, those are the screws i had that fit, im not THAT anal. Mind you im not going for Centurion here. Maybe EIB but thats it.

I just give it a light sanding. The parts were pretty well cast to begin with so i didnt need any excessive sanding/filling Thanks for the kind words guys! As soon as i have a little cash ill get me some t-tracks. Does Stomper still make/sell that or do we have a new person now...the last time i bought the stuff was in 2008 lol

damn you are thin! lol Coming along nicely... but where is the belt/ab piece on your snowie?

thanks bro! Thats what i did all day today lol

Well ive been building the armor but the fiance broke my camera so i havent been able to take pics but i am now almost done and now have a camera again. Soooo tomorrow ill post pics of where im at now. But for now, check out what i did today... ESB blaster build thread http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=15351&st=0&gopid=185899entry185899

I also noticed an allen bolt in the bottom of the grip. So i drilled that out as well and added the bolt. I then added the clip and all the greeblies: Then i painted it with krylon black primer and a couple of coats of matte finish Now i just need to weather it and get me some t-track for the barrel and its done! Its not perfect, there are a couple of oops' on it. I mounted the grip just a tad too far back so the stock doesnt protrude as much as it should. The grip is also slightly skewed to the left, but unless you look at it from end to end, you dont really notice it. But it was a fun first blaster build. I will hopefully get an ANH kit sometime in the near future and be more careful when i build it, now that i know how its done!

Then i mounted the scope, and filled the screw holes: I also mounted the stock but noticed it was angled a bit much and far from the barrel, or at least further than i wanted it to be So i placed a screw underneath and counter sunk it to fill the hole That solved the problem I then insertred a 1/2" PVC pipe i prepainted flat black as the internal barrel. It was sittin a little crooked so i mounted the front sight with a slightly askew screw to push it level. In some shots of the real blaster i noticed there was an allen bolt on the front nozzle. I wanted to replicate that so i found an old allen bolt i had laying around and drilled out the nozzle to fit it. Worked perfect!

I then proceeded to add trigger, trigger guard, scope rail and clip assembly with CA glue and countersunk screws: I had forgotten to drill out the holes to mount the scope, so i had to remove the scope rail, drill those out and put it back..lol..whoops! Before i reattached the scope rail i placed the scope in the proper position and drilled just a little through the holes on the rail to the scope itself to mark where the holes should be on the scope. I then drilled from the bottom markings all the way through the scope out of the top. Then i turned it back right side up and counter sunk the holes to match the screws i was using to mount it: Ok so after a location problem, i reattached the stock mount closer to the grip and filled the screw holes and the holes from my improper placement

Hey guys n gals i decided to take a break from building my armor(which is almost done) and start on the blaster. I bought this kit from Jason (boklast) from the Carolina garrison months ago but never got around to building it. This is a "doopy doos" kit that you use with a PVC pipe or metal tube. My build is a PVC pipe, and a bare bones build with no moving parts or electronics. It comes with a template you attach to the PVC pipe to layut the barrel holes, cocking slot, and ejection port. I spray glued the template to the pipe and cut it out about a month ago and stopped working on it So this is where we are now. I didnt take any pics of the parts layed out, but its a standard ESB kit that doopy doos sells. Now the parts are meant to be glued/epoxied into place, but i wanted this to be a bit more sturdy so i used screws and glue wherever possible the first thing i did was insert the "door" for the ejection port. Its basically a resin tube thats inserted in the middle of the barrel where the ejection door is. First you see here the bottom of the barrel and the way i mounted the grip section. I used CA glue and then put in 3 screws. 2 here: and 1 here: I countersunk the rear grip screw to be filled with bondo later. The other screws will be covered by the trigger and trigger guard. i then decided to have the folding stock screw into the mount at the rear connection points. So i found screws that would fit the bill and drilled out the "bump" on the end of the stock later i will remove the3 bump entirely to be replaced by the large headed screw i found to do the job and then put a screw through it to make it sturdy Here is the top of the stock with the countersunk hole: here is the bottom: I then added the mount for the stock behind the grip, again with a countersunk screw and CA glue: I also drilled holes into the sides to mount the stock: I then finished drilling and removing the "bump" on the stock:

I think thats what he means. I used a small screwdriver to "open" those types of rivets, although i dont know if mine are thinner and weaker than yours John.

Yea what Julie said. Id glue it with CA glue and put a piece of old t-shirt soaked in CA glue on the back. then fil the crack and paint that one part with the paint Julie said. That should sort that out ...at least until you can replace the part. OR You can do the CA glue thing and fill the crack with ABS paste made from shaving from your armor. (mix them with a little acetone to make the paste) sand it down with 300 then 600 then 1000 grait sandpaper and polish. that will be very close to the original finish, and again should get you through till you replace the part if you decide to do that.

No, they are bumpy. I doubt you can "buff them down". Youd have to sand it but then you'll lose the shine of the ABS. You CAN sand it with 300-400 grit and then with a finer grit like 600 and then 1000 grit to get it as smooth as possible and then use the novus ABS polish, all 3 steps...but i found that even though it can get back alot of the shine, it will never be that super gloss look after sanding...at least not in my experience. Personally i just paint my ABS kits as well. I like the look of the painted suits/helmets and get the ABS for the durability factor more than anything. So you could go that route as well.

At first i didnt see what they were talking about with your forearms from the side shot, but i was able to see it with the front shot. TKrestonva is correct, since you used e-6000 you should be able to slice right through the glue with a hobby knife or box cutter/snap blade knife. Be sure to wear gloves when doing this..i got a NASTY cut once from doing something similar..live n learn lol. Anywho, what i did with mine was trim the inner and outer forearm on the inner seam (which is if you put your fists up to box, they would be facing you) I pretty much removed the entire area where you would attach the strip to. so it wont have that curve up to the sealing strip, but will look nice and even. You would just be using the strip to cover the seam and be butting together the edges. If you need to take off more, then evenly trimming both sides of the inner arms would need to be done as well. But i think you could get away wtih just trimming a little off that inside seam area on both pieces. Do that, tape it up put em on, and post new pics so we can see how that looks. For the back..i wouldnt heat up anything yet. Since your so thin (ugh i wish i was almost that thin lol ) ....First id shorten the straps between the chest and back plates. If you shorten them to the point that the chest and back are touching and its still not enough, you can trim a little off the tops of the back/chest the same amount on each piece. that should bring it all closer to your body. THEN if you need some minor tweaking you can take a little heat to it to fit it to you even better. dang, you UK guys are tough!...... i like it! LOL!

Sweet! Man i ned to get to one of thoser FAAN walks. Im the one who had the contact for them and i never managed to troop one! First year i was sick, the next year it was durting my back to school rush...maybe i can make it this year! lol Your INC looked great this past weekend bro!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! i almost spit iced tea all over my monitor! lol good one Julie! LOL and JK..glad you got your neckseal!

If i recall correctly, i think a full pred suit runs around the same as a Fett.. starting around 3,000ish

Yes he was/is. I THINK its available now...but not sure, youd have to ask him

My thought would be to cast the elastic strip within the box. That way theres no way its comin off! @Matt..thats what i meant polycarbonite...or Plastoid if i remember correctly I like the idea of the foam filled boxes as well. That way the look is still accurate and the sound would be toned down. Not a bad idea.

Im a member there, but dont go on there much as its just out of the budget right now. Id love to get one together in the next few years though. But since im changing up the stuff i make, which is what finances my costuming, im not sure how long it will take me. They have great stuff there..and check out Scott Marshall on facebook..his work is amazing!

Also making them of rubber will make them heavy. Personally i dont mind the noise...and even without dropbox noise, your still going to be clanking around...you are wearing plastic armor! but to each his own i suppose.

Im my garrisons GML, and your suit looks pretty good to me! I dont personally require pics be taken outside, but a well daylight lit room is the best..or one with those daylight florescent bulbs. That pic looks perfectly fine lighting wise to me though. This is for 501st clearance, not EIB or Centurion where closer inspection of the details may be necessary But every GML will be a little different. Looks good though, i bet you get cleared no problem!

Yea the communication when i ordered my neckseal was almost nonexistent as well. But it showed up. Id give it a total of 8weeks, and thenshoot over another e-mail. I dont think you need to order from someone else, he will deliver.

TK409 sometimes takes a while. I had ordered a Fett neck seal and didnt get it for almost 2 months...but it is well worth the wait. I wouldn't sweat it. The communication could be better, but ive never heard of anyone not getting what they ordered from him. I actually want another oiftanker one. I love the zipper in the back...

thats what im sayin...this is why i do this....not to bicker about armor linage and recasting. Im sorry i said anything in this thread Carsten, some of the quotes you took from me sound alot worse taken out of context. If you are going to quote me, quote everything i said. Now I dunno if the comment was directed at me but I DO NOT think the community gains from recasting. i wasnt saying anything about agreeing with recasting i was just saying if "I" was the first person with a screen used suit to share, i would not have cared...thats all nothing else. If you wanna say its "hot air" so be it....you dont know me, and you dont know how much stuff i make and give away. Doesnt matter anyway, cuz ill never be that first person to own and offer a screen used suit, so its pointless to discuss. I agree with you and Bluegrot on what you are saying. Respect the makers wishes. If they dont want to allow their stuff to be recast, we should respect that for the maker and the community as a whole. Unfortunately though, TK armor making has just turned into a big cluster**** at this point..which i guess is sad. Which is why i said what i did, but you couldnt tell that from your selective quoting. I respect your knowledge and opinion Carsten, i dont want to get into a silly debate with you about this. i am completely against recasting.

Mikes new helmet would work for you. But i dont know if that symetrical enough for you. Its a-symetrical like the screen used helmets but doesnt have the lumps n bumps. An AP may also be a good choice as its and idealized screen used style helmet. It does have the eye bump a bit, but if you trim the eyes out enough, it pretty much is gone. I dont think there is a helmet smaller than the MRCE/EFX. If the MRCE fits you well, so will the AP or Mikes helmet. (FYI: My avatar is my AP helmet) here is a link for the EFX helmet: -----------