Darth Voorhees

Makes sense...i do like the layout and think the blue in place of the red will look awesome. I also agree that even though i like th white, as we are stormies, i also agree it can sometimes be a bit much, so i like you mentioned a "lighter" version, not necessarily a white version for the future. I use firefox and it looks fine (aside form the misplaced logo you mentioned) and everything seems to work.

yea i do kinda agree with the white over the black for the FISD, BUT this layout works well, i like that the CRLs are all easier to access without going back to the home page. Like i mentioned before..if we change up the colors, i think this layout will work well.

thanks man..i was waiting to see what ya thought. Yea i noticed i did the over taper on some of the t tracks but was too lazy to fix it at the time. I just wanted it done so i can get this cleared and apply for centurion =) i couldnt afford a good holster so i made a semi nice one. My leather i had was a bit thicker than it should be and i didnt have a big enough piece to do it accurately so the front is riveted to the back, but hopefully it will clear for at least EIB. Ill post a pic later

Looks good to me, except the FISD logo is way small in the left top corner. I like this skin, its the same as the SLD, i thinkw ith the color changes, like the red to blue and maybe make the grey draker and the black a lighter grey(just a suggestion) and i think it would look great. Ijust think the FISD shouldnt have too much black as the TKs are mostly white of course. Just an opinion though. I like this layout alot!

Thanks Mathias! I made the T-track from some sheet styrene i had

Yep..you are correct. I discovered this when i was making fiberglass Friday the 13th hockey masks. I needed the longer posts for the thickness of the mask and the leather straps for the part 6 and 7 masks. I actually can use the shorter post ones for snaps on the TK as i attach my snaps to nylon webbing and glue that to the inside of the armor as it allows it to fit to the curvature of the armor

ok...i think this is done!

This is exactly why i would hope that they never would eliminate hasbro blasters from being accepted. As nice as it would be, its just not logical for certain places. I always encourage the pipe builds, but its up to the trooper. A well done Hasbro with mods looks great to the general public, so id see no reason to eliminate it. @naatsirhc- The hasbro with mods is only a few bucks cheaper than a PVC pipe build. and the pipe build looks 1,000 times better. I have a pipe build and will let the kids hold it..the same will hold true to a hasbro with a doopy doos kit and a pipe build....if it breaks, i fix it..why would it be any different? But again, i nice modded hasbro looks great to the public, so i wouldnt ever want the hasbro eliminated.

What your seeing is the "centurion" requirements. All the requirements for all 3 levels of builds, standard 501st, EIB and Centurion, are together, but coded with colors. Black type is regular 501st requirements, blue text is EIB, red text is Centurion, which is even higher level of accuracy than EIB. But for standard 501st, modded hasbro blasters are still accepted.

I am the same height as you if i recall correctly from another thread. I cut a good inch and a half off the tops of the thighs. I didnt bother to re-add the return edge as its hardly noticeable there. Though i may in the future. I basically build my thighs so they go up high enough that my entire knee is exposed. the calves go up over the knee a bit so the spacing doesnt look bad. I think its a happy medium between accuracy and function. I also cut a notch in the back as you did. This being my 3rd TK armor build i think i finally got it so it doesnt give me those very bites you have there, which ive had lol.

i agree with everyone, Terry aka Pandatrooper, is a true help to newbies and veterans alike, and a gosh darn nice guy too! Way to go Terry!

i had one of these when i was a kid. Unfortunately my parents gave away or through away all my toys...ugh. Wish i still had mine, so cool it had the folding stock on it. Awesome piece, thanks for sharing!

The PVC pipe build is another kit from them. technically the PVC pipe is slightly wider in diameter than a real sterling,and the parts for that kit are modded to fit the pipe. The pieces to this kit would need to be modded to fit on a pipe..so youd be better off buying the kit of rthe pipe and save yourself some time/trouble

Roger that!

Cool..yea i like the textured paint! Yup for the t-track, if i do make them, i will likely heat and curve a piece of styrene first so it has the curve on it. Indeed i was planning on making it thin enough to go into the holes of the barrel! haha..ill weather th whole thing once i have everything as it should be. Oh yea, i found some flathead screws for the greeblies, so i replaced the flat/philips head screws with the flat head screws. Ya had to go and mention that didnt ya LOL!

i agree with Terry, satin in the way to go. Just for an FYI...i sometimes use flat black and put a matte finish clearcoat over it, it gives the same effect and if you have the flat black and clearcoat on hand, you dont have to go searching for a satin black paint.

Not a problem bud!

Troopers helping troopers is the way to go! Alex..they are packed up and ready to go Monday morning! Enjoy your journey to the dark side buddy!

Since your new and just starting out, and im in a good mood, :DI will gladly send ya a set of accurate Mic tips and a strip of the welders lens material for just the shipping..which id say is about $5. Pm me your addy and ill let ya know my Paypal for the $5

Indeed Vern! well i did the mods. I had a spare couple of nozzles so i removed the old one and modded a new one and put that in. I removed the clip mounting hardware, and removed the D-ring and mount. I also tried to add the "flat spot" in front of the lug but it didnt come out that great. Im thinking of fabricating some t-track with the spare styrene i have laying around....hmmm Anyway here are the pics!

Ok after going back and fourth with myself 50times...ive decided to keep this blaster the "promo version" I will make the necessary mods to it later tonight . Reason being, i want an ANH kit like this as well, and i like that this one will look a little different than the ANH version. Also, if i do finally decide to do a snowie build in the future, this blaster will work for that. So thats my decision and im sticking to it! .................i think.. LOL!

i have the same inseam. I trimmed the tops of the thighs. Its a bit tricky but it works. i have an interesting way of building my thighs for my height/weight. I am going to add the pics to my build thread later tonight. My friend has my SD card reader so i wont be able to do it till later tonight. But basically yes i trimmed the tops and made the notch in the back. i also built them so they are pulled up enough that my entire knee is exposed. I know the shins will cover some of that in the front and it makes it way easier to walk/go up steps etc. Like Terry mentioned, i created a balance between comfort and accuracy

Thanks Vern! Yea i got the kit second hand so i guess he had the doopydoos kit and the ESB greeblies from Tango

Ya know it seems easier to just leave it the greeblied version....but i kinda really do want the "canon" version. I can remove the greeblies, dremel off the blocks on the scoperail. I can also make the front of the scoperail more squared off and bondo up the sides to give it the more boxy look of the canon blasters. I also belive the canon blasters had the "U" track rather than the T track...i think? If i did these mods, would it be clear for a "canon" build for EIB?

ok heres what i found in the requirements: 21. BlasTech E-11 Blaster (Canon): Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes). Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. 22. BlasTech E-11 Blaster (Promo): Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). Popular commercially available toy Stormtrooper blasters shall have a total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes). Two greeblies on the left rear area. Three studs on the right rear area. Add two scope block greeblies. Remove front bayonet muzzle disk. Remove mag housing parts. Remove D-Ring mount. Swoosh trim on right above the pistol grip. So it seems i have a mix of the promo and the canon stunt version going on here But neither of these mention the cut out cocking handle and notch. But as i said, it is filled in. I want to go canon with this, not promo, so i may remove the greeblies. Does anyone have a true screen shot of these blasters? I keep hearing mixed things about them all. So im seeing i should not have the greeblies for the canon blaster? This is going by the EIB standards for a canon ESB. Should i remove the greeblies and swoosh?