matt black

Here it is painted and with a light bit of weathering. By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26

Thanks fellas. Glad you all like it. I can't believe it didn't come out wonky! Although I know that would be pretty accurate LOL.

Trust me. There was no way I was going to make a 7th rail. It's welded and carefully ground down. Thanks for the kind words Andy. Much appreciated

Well I'm all done and I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. Here is the test fit before I start painting. Please let me know what you think. By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 By bsac15 at 2012-06-26 And here is the shot that makes the welding worth it for me. No thick part of the rail under the scope YAY! By bsac15 at 2012-06-26

Thanks for the interest guys. Vern, I had a look at lots of screen shots and decided to go for the same sort of position as the trooper on the right. The bracket is welded now. I'll give it a clean up and take a pic of the test fit tonight By bsac15 at 2012-06-26

I would say yes, you can trim some more. You can see where the smooth plastic stops and the wrinkled plastic starts. I would wait for some more opinions though as there are members with better knowledge than me. ----------

I am almost done with scope rail and counter bracket all in one combo. I thought I'd try something a bit different. I thought about gluing the counter to the Sterling to be as accurate as I could be but I just can't bring myself to do it. I would be forever worried about the counter falling off. I know that would be even more accurate but I like my counter I wanted to use a bracket that was as hidden as it could be so I didn't want the extra thickness on the rail where the counter bracket is fixed to the scope bolts. I made a simple bracket that sits inside the Hengstler so it can sit as close to the barrel as possable. By bsac15 at 2012-06-25 By bsac15 at 2012-06-25 My job tomorrow will be to very carefully butt weld the counter bracket to the scope rail. It took some fine measuring to make sure that the counter will sit in the right place as it will not be adjustable but I think it will be worth it so you don't see the metal of the bracket under the scope on the rail. By bsac15 at 2012-06-25 For the counter bracket I used 3mm flat bar so I had an extra 1mm to tap the thread for a more secure fixing. I then filed down 1mm off the top of the bracket so it will fit flush to scope rail when welded.

Hey Michael, Sounds like you are on a large amount of meds. May I ask you what your diagnosis is? What is the prognosis? Rob.

Hope you feel better soon buddy and be careful with that Dremmel !

I was thinking AP too. But I'm normally rubbish at this.

Working on my counter bracket and thought I'd share a silly little tip that I use when setting a number on the counter. When you remove the plastic housing there is a small hole underneath in the black reset button By bsac15 at 2012-06-23 Cut a small piece of plastic so that it fits flush in the hole and refit the plastic housing. The button cannot be pushed and your number will not be re-set to zero by accident. By bsac15 at 2012-06-23 I should have the counter bracket finished and fixed to the scope rail in a couple of days.

Rubbing your pelvic region onto another person. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grinding_(dance) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83j4ICes2i4

I always used to paint bikes matt black so people started calling me it as a nick name. I needed a screen name on a forum one day so used it. By the way, I didn't spell it wrong. In the UK we spell it matt not matte.

Take a look at my build thread and see if it is any help to you mate http://www.whitearmo...l=&fromsearch=1 This is the design that I used http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4697

Thanks guys

Thanks Lee. I haven't made much progress the last couple of days as I wont have the Hengstler until my birthday as it's a gift. I used the free time to make a simple stand out of aluminium but it's not quite finished yet. By bsac15 at 2012-06-18

Hi Robbie. First two things that you can do is raise the drop boxes up so they are closer to the belt. This will cover some of the black at the top of your legs. The other thing is your biceps can come down a bit so this should deal with some of the black on the arms. Fitting the bells closer to the shoulder bridges will help also as you said.

Is it a Master Replica's? The TM looks wayyyyyyy better.

In that last pic the helmet looks lower and much better. With the bells, maybe you could get the tops of them to sit closer to the shoulder bridges? I can't tell from the pics but do you have elastic in the bells going around your bicep to hold them tight to your arm?

I think it looks fantastic. You can't help being tall and I think you done a great job of keeping the black parts showing to a minimum. All I would say is that the helmet needs to come down more if you can and the shoulder bells need to be pulled in tighter to you. The belt could also do with coming up a bit. Excellent looking build mate.

It will look great and add some nice authentic detail.

That's fantatsic Mark. What an achievement! Well done.

The mic tips are painted black. The white that you can see around the rim is just weathering. This is where the paint chipped off of the originals.

Yeah I found that. Very tight indeed. You have to be so careful to not round the head off as they are brass.

That looks fantastic mate well done . Really loving the blaster.