matt black

By bsac15 at 2012-06-04 By bsac15 at 2012-06-04 By bsac15 at 2012-06-04 What do you all think of this. Once again, thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate it

Good point Paul. We spend our lives trying to make things look as good and neat as we can then it is difficult to do things how we would not normaly choose to do them. I am going to make a second rail tonight that is lower and then I'll post some more pics. Thanks for yoyr input mate

Of course, everyone has their preferences but I just think that the curved rail looks a bit sloppy. Like it was made quickly and didn't fit very well. On real guns you never see a curved scope rail as the scope has to be on the same level as the gun. It's just my opinion but I like the neater look of the slightly raised rail.

Bloody hell this all gets confusing! Thanks for the help everyone. I'm glad there are people here that know a LOT more than me. Thanks Andy for the info about the differences between the rails of ANH and Empire blasters. I certainly did not know that. I have fixed down my rail and the gap is 6mm not 7mm. The rail sits on top of the little flip down sight. If I were to flip the sight back and have the rail sit on the sight housing itself then I would have a gap of 3mm between the rail and the barrel. Which to me looks wrong. By bsac15 at 2012-06-04

By bsac15 at 2012-06-04

By bsac15 at 2012-06-04

Not the best picture but you can just make out the front bend in the rail with the troooper on the left. By bsac15 at 2012-06-04

I'm pretty sure they are real Sterlings and did they not re-use blasters in Empire from ANH?

This is the sort of look I was going for. By bsac15 at 2012-06-04 By bsac15 at 2012-06-04

Thank you for the compliments everyone. I'm glad you like it so far. Paul, I'm no expert either but I think that Lukes scope rail was different to most others seen on screen. Can some of you blaster experts tell me if that is the case? The rail only sits 7mm away from the barrel so I don't think that is too high. At least, I hope not. Andy, I'm not really replicating any particular on screen blaster. I'm trying to take the best parts that I can see from each blaster. I want it to be more useable. I suppose that if I wanted to really SA I would have to glue on the Hengstler and I don't want to do that. I want the blaster to look good close up. If that makes sense.

Fantastic repair. Well done

Here is an EI request with LA armour http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18578&st=0&p=223094&hl=loading%20area&fromsearch=1entry223094

No problem.

Those pictures are exactly the ones that I have. Same codes and ratings. I'll send Mullards an email and ask him about any more stock and the K rating. These two different sizes are very close so at least if we can't find any of the smaller ones we still ahve something that is extremly close. Cheers Andy.

Cheers Andy. How long are yours from tip to tip? These ones are 26mm.

Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) has just pointed out to me that the caps that I have look like they are 6mm and the ones from earlier in this thread are 5mm Really sorry everyone, I thought I'd found the right thing. I will still send out the ones to people that have asked for them and if you decide that you don't want to use them then no worries. Sorry everyone. I'll get back in my box now!

Thank you Stefan. Keep searching. I'm sure you will find one eventually and it will be worth it. I finished up my T tracks today. By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 My next job was to make the scope rail using Billhag's template as a guide. I went with the 2mm thick flat bar in the end. I used 3mm for my pipe build and I thought it looked a little too chunky. I like how the thinner bar looks. By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 I went with steel as it shouldn't sag as much as aluminium and I want to weather it once painted and let the steel show through in some places. I took some time to get the curvature right so that it sits nicely against the barrel By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 *EDIT* I wasn't holding the back down all the way. It does sit even. Honest I think it sits nice and even along the length of the barrel and looks to be about the right distance away. By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 I decided to leave the rear scope in place. I just have to drill a small hole in the rail to fix it down. By bsac15 at 2012-06-03 I suppose the next job is to get a scope and fit it so that I can then make a bracket for the Hengster and make sure that it is positioned correctly.

It's a very fine rubbing compound. The same as novus.

I have used T cut on pretty much any kind of plastic you can imagine in the marine industry. I have always used it on my armour. This is capped. Never once have I had any problems with discolouring or it 'eating in' to the material. I have always prefered it as it's a lot less work than Novus and gives a much better shine. As for it having metal in it that will rust, no way.

Oh yeah. Thank you Jens. Great looking build by the way

Lot's of capacitors By bsac15 at 2012-06-02 I'll get these sent out to everyone that has asked for some early next week. Still some available if anyone else wants them. Craig, I still need your address.

Thank you Jens. Very interesting. Does that method not make the rail sit too close to the body of the gun?

Perfect! Thanks Sergiu

Thank you Sergiu. I still can't decide on the best way to fit the rear of the scope rail. Does anyone know how they were fitted on screen? I know that some had a bend in them and were screwed to the barrel in front of the rear sight but I would like to fit mine into the rear sight.

You can say that again. I hate this stuff !