gazmosis

If that is your left shin the sniper will cover it. That is a rally nice seam. It's a shame to pull it apart. If you have access to a hobby iron, you could try to massage it even with some heat.

Thank you for the picture of the "S" trim and have no worries about your English. I will do my best help you understand. The opening of your forearm part closest to your hand should have no curve on it. Here are some pictures: Thank you for taking care of these things and I hope the pictures explained things. Your pictures did not show a close up of your forearm opening but it looked like there was a curve on yours. Can you post a picture of yours to make sure?

Hello Ruben! Thank you so much for your Centurion application. You have some fantastic looking ATA armor! Some other troopers have chimed in with their points of view on certain issues. Centurion is the highest level of accomplishment so we want to make sure you look your best and sometimes that means getting particular. Let's get to your armor. CRL Requirements: There is one photo missing from the required photo checklist. This one is kind of important that cannot be seen in any other pics (yes, I checked your imageshack pics too ) It is a picture of the "S" trim on the neck opening of your helmet. There is a picture of the trim, but I can;t tell for certain if it's the "S" trim. I saw and appreciate you following up on the comment regarding your Thermal Detonator clips being too far in. Not only did you move them outward, but you colored the screws black. Nice work!! The next issue that needs to be addressed is the pop rivet that was used to attach your thigh pack on your right thigh. It must be a solid head rivet with no dent in the middle. It can be a split rivet, but should be a cap or speed rivet as used in the film and should be slightly smaller than the rivets on your left side. The last issue I need to touch on is the return edge on the wrist side of your forearms. It is not perfectly clear and my eyes hurt from straining to see. A return edge is best described as any bend, curve or change in direction on the edge of any armor part compared to the surface. The wrist opening of the forearm should have no curve or edge of any kind. it should be flat and this includes into the ridge with the square indents and finish strips. Armor Fit/Assembly: You have done a fine job fitting your armor to you. Outstanding work!! A trooper had made a comment regarding the center button cover on your belt. I know there is not much that can be done about ATA's button covers. There is little gluing surface . Until that changes we just need to go with it. The straps that connect your drop boxes to your belt are very close to being almost too long. If they were ANY longer, I'd have you shorten them but with the belt on your armor, you can't tell and it looks good. This leads to another point about your belt. Although it won't affect the outcome of your application, your belt should either touch or slightly overlap the bottom of the button plate. Nothing that is listed above should take any great deal of time or effort to clear up. Address those and I will clear you for Centurion!!!!

Yes those snaps are fine for the male ones that show on the Ab and butt/crotch area. The other fasteners on the ab and kidney need to be solid head split rivets and on the thigh attachment a solid head cap/speed rivet

Looking good there trooper!

Thanks, Bobby. I knew you'd take care of it. We just want the applications to be consistent for all future applicants to refer to when they want to see how to do it!

Yes that is correct. But first, CONGRATULATIONS on the weight loss. This is nothing that should be taken for granted. Good for you. Once you see how incredible you are going to look with all your parts as they should be, that will be incentive enough to keep the weight off!! Your trim line is already on your armor. That bend in the ab plate is where the seam line should be. RS leaves a little "room to grow" and that is where they leave it. Just make it look even to the rivets on the kidney which looks to be in that 10 MM range.

OOOH this is a tasty build!!!!!

Now look who is adorable! (I saw your comment on a different thread) Diana's RS build, I think

Lou speaks the truth. Whichever "S" trim you go with will hold if installed correctly. The key is to really compress the trim from the sides to the center by sliding each side towards your seam area. Once you you have done that, make sure you cut it with at least 1/4-3/8 inch overlap so that the connection is compressed as well. This compression forces the rubber outward and keeps it in place.

Feedback incoming! Great work on those tube stripes!!!! I know...you keed! (nice) Yes those gloves makes a man's hands sweaty!!! CRL Requirements: It is very much appreciated that you made the changes you did! With that, I congratulate you and welcome you to Centurion!!!!! You are only missing one close up pic of your sniper knee plate but I can see it in the full body shot. If you could add one to your application to make it complete.

Hey Josh. Thank you for your EIB application! Love your RS and your Brian M. endorsement! Please tell me, Did RS build your armor or did you? CRL Requirements: All required photos are present. Your painted details on the helmet are really nice. Your armor is outstanding but there is one thing that you need to change before I can approve you. You holster attachment. First, the straps need to be attached to the back side of the belt not the front. Second, the straps are REALLY long. There should be about 1 inch of strap showing between the belt and holster. Third, perhaps it's just the picture but the straps should measure around 20 MM (3/4 inch) in width. Yours look thin but again, maybe it's just the picture. Make this adjustment to the holster strap and your are in no problem. Centurion Suggestions: The reason I asked about who built your armor is because of the placement of your male snap on the right side and the three rivets on the AB on your left. Both should be placed about 10 MM in from the edge. With your thin build, It looks like you have room that you might be able trim the seam down a bit to bring those placements a little closer to 10 MM.

It is clear that my above statement regarding three teeth on stunt troopers is incorrect. For that I apologize. I try my best to to be on top of things as much as I can but this one slipped by me. The topic of this specific helmet is being discussed.

Where in the head topic of this thread did it say that this armor was emulating a specific trooper?????????? To answer your question, Ian, I was no longer supporting the "hero" handplate issue since neither Han or Luke had a complete set. The CRL mentions nothing about that either.

Who's armor did you buy???

http://www.weberspump.com/How long have you waited prior to topcoating the lid? The primer for plastics needs time to fully cure or you risk wrinkling (paint lifting) I have always let it cure for at least a week. The link in the beginning is a source for the "s" trim. it is part R102 in the ad window glass section.

It's like a greeblie buffet!!!!

Hey there, Wade! Troopermaster armor......MMMMMMMMmm droool. Great looking build and thank you for your EIB application! Let's look at your armor. BTW......sorry it took me a little longer than normal to get your application. CRL Requirements: All photos that are required are present. There is one point that I need you to change before I can approve you. You need to trim out that extra tooth on your helmet. Only Hero helmets have three teeth cut out. Stunt requires 4-5 removed. Other-Armor Fit and Assembly: I know a few had mentioned about pitching your bicep hooks and letting them fall. I would raise up your forearms seeing as they are touching your hand guards. Perhaps installing some foam to keep them tight and in place or a strap that connects your bicep and forearm will keep them up as well. These suggestions are for comfort and overall look. It won't affect any outcomes. The next thing that I want to touch on is a couple issues with your blaster. Although it won't affect your EIB outcome, I would like to see these changes done if you decide to apply for Centurion. First, your scope rail sits a little high. Most scope rails are installed with just enough room so that the screws or nuts or whatever is holding the scope to the rail clears the gun's receiver body. We are talking about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch here. Another item is the attachment of the rail to your blaster. Although the rear connection by the rear sight is correct, the front should not duplicate that. It should be inserted into the top vent hole just behind the top T-track. Your blaster also lacks the charging handle that should be just behind and above the ejection port.Your blaster has the necessary parts and rear "D" ring that passes for EIB. After further review, you may keep the mounting method you used to attach your scope rail. I would like to see its height taken down a little if possible. Centurion Suggestions: When submitting your Centurion photos, I would make sure your back plate is positioned properly so that it does not overlap the kidney. Please address the scope rail and charging handle issues on your blaster. Get those extra teeth trimmed out on your helmet so I can pass your EIB approval and you can move on to Centurion!!!

Hey Tom: Thank you being a trooper and sticking it out, making the changes and providing all necessary photos. Your kidney and back placement is so nice now! Great work on that! You could still trim a little more return edge off that left forearm right at the square indent ridge. I am sure you will do that soon, right Although it won't affect your outcome because it is white, you might want to look into making that drop box elastic a little wider. Aside from that, congratulations on all your work and adjustments and welcome to Centurion, Tom!!!! Approved

Thank you, Vern. Thank goodness we are all on the same team here!

I think what is the feeling here is that although the parts need to be present and accurate, the final finish/color of the blaster can be left to certain "creative interpretations". I agree. Your blaster should not be fluorescent red. But some folks, as myself, want my blaster to be mistaken for a real weapon up close. If that means I am going for a slight color variance, so be it. The blasters are not as closely scrutinized here as the armor is. From a DO point of view, I am looking for all the physical parts ("D" ring, t-tracks, parts that look like Sterling parts) I don't want it to get that level where each aspect is being nit picked to death. Look at the Sci-Fires. The Pistol grip is not gloss black, you can't see through and under the scope rail, the folding stock is solid underneath, the barrel end is not a hole........OMG!!!!!! There are some that hold the passion for absolute accuracy close to their hearts and good for them. But our group needs to know we can be accurate and still have some fun and be creative with certain things.

MTK is ABS and is good quality. He is also a great guy to work with. IT's Trooperbay afterall

Drooooooooool....slobber

You will be vibe. Just a just the copy size on your printer down a few percentages until it fits correctly.