gazmosis

Scott: Thank you for making the adjustments! THAT is the way it should look. As for your your forearms, I had to look back at your pictures above. I thought you could take a little more out of the square indent ridge like in RS or TM armor but if you took any more out, you would actually be into one of the square indents. I would rather you keep it as is than go into the dent. Well done and welcome to Centurion!!!

At last count I think there are 1,287,721 doopydoos builds. you should have plenty of references to boost your confidence!

Very well thought out plan! This blaster should be rock solid!

That discussion, if I remember, was based on the backside of ATA armor which has the cover strip ridges molded into the backs of the thighs and shins. These ridges are not present on RS, Troopermaster, and even MTK thighs. The original armor only had these cover strip ridges on the top side of the forearms, thighs and shins. There were no ridges on the biceps, the underside of the forearms or the leg backs. As for the ridges on the front, the should be covered, yes. 15mm strips for the arms, 20mm for the leg fronts, 25 for the backs. If you are as skinny as you say you are, this might be a moot point all together. However, we don't know who's armor you have. Consistency is the goal. Tell us what armor you have

Nice, Scotty! I wish I could do this.

I hope it's just your pictures that are backwards

You should be putting this into in a history thread. This is great stuff.

Comment from original assessment regarding blaster weathering removed. There were Hengstler counters that were brass and indeed this showed through if the paint had chipped or weathered in this area.

Be careful with your testing!!!! The belts are much thinner than scrap ABS that may have come with your kit. Be careful!

Damn, Simon! How did your blaster build sneak by me?? PM heading your way.

So.....the counter pictured above has white numbers on a black background. I need black numbers on a white background? I am making what hope will be a cool E-11 asked on the British Sterling SMG. I am not focussing on a particular weapon other than a functional Sterling.

That is accurate for them to be yellow but you are right about there being only 6 numbers.

I want to do the numbers on the back of the doppys Hengstler. Someone, somewhere, made a file that made a goof like me able to do this. I can't find it. Can someone enlighten me???

No one would tell that you had a hard time with your thighs.....or any other part of your armor! We all hope your shoulder is feeling better.

Hey Scott. Thank you for giving us the treat by looking at this wonderful AP build. May I say...."Holy snap-a-palooza!!" With that said, let's get into your application. You are so close, but there are a couple things I would like you to look into before I pass you. CRL Requirements: As I said, you are right on the edge. I reviewed your EIB thread along with this application in detail and what sticks out the most is the overlap of your back plate over your kidney. I cannot see how you attached the strap that joins your chest/back over your shoulders, but if it is snapped to your back plate, an additional snap just a bit higher will pull your back up to where it needs to be. After the fix, please make sure to post a pic of the armor on you to assure the fit is where it needs to be. The last item I will need clarification on is your forearms. There should be no return edge at all on the wrist side. In the one photo where your forearms are on the table next to your splayed armor, I see curvature on the wrist opening. Any curvature is still considered return edge however slight. Both these issues are EASILY update-able. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly It was mentioned above regarding a connecting strap between your forearms and biceps. This is up to you. I suggest it if you have a problem with your forearms falling, but if you don't, carry on. If I was to suggest something that would not affect your application but improve your overall look, it would be to shorten the cover strip on the backs of your thighs and shins. The cover strips should come UP TO the ridge line not go over. (see above thigh pic). Please make thee simple updates so I can get you in the ranks of Centurion!!! Well done on the build!!!! Thank you! .

If you have ace hardware near you, Tim, they will have whatever size you are looking for.

So are they 4 mil screws? And yes, the mag is the correct direction and I will fill in that dimple.

I used metric screws and nuts. 6 mil

Steve-O! RS armor will always make my socks go up and down! Especially when it is built this well! A job well done in all areas. Love the paint job on the helmet! CRL Requirements: One cannot say too much when their mouth is hanging open! This was an easy pass. Welcome to the ranks, trooper!!! Other-Armor fit and Assembly: I t is not totally clear, but is there a bit of material that could be taken off the bottom of the thigh pack? If so, it's an easy fix that might free up some movement space between your grieve and thigh bottom. Centurion Suggestions: Apply for it and make sure all your photos on the checklist are covered. Congratulations!!!!

Hey Hans. Another great set of TM armor!! I still LOVE the negative vacu forming of the button plate on the ab.!!! Let's get to it! CRL Related: All points for EIB have been met. A shot of your interior strapping is required. With bracket assembly, the entire interior always in the pic. Since you chose not to use the brackets, the shoulder straps is the only part you provided. I will still pass you, but can you provide a shot of the main torso interior so the kids can all see how you have approached it, please? Welcome to the ranks, trooper!!!! Other-Armor Fit and Assembly: I would look into a new method of connecting your sides. You seem to have some excessive flare-out. Without the interior shot of your torso, I can't see how you have done this but I suspect that your straps just might be too long. It might have something to do with your shims as well. Tightening things in this area up might allow a little to be removed from your side shims, too. It looks to me that you have a little room to do this. In regards to your DLT-19, have you thought about installing the retaining wires around the front t-tracks?? Just a suggestion. Centurion Suggestions: ​There are some things here that I would definitely look into prior to applying for Centuron. first is the most minor of things. Take out that small bit of return edge under the connecting strip ridge on your forearm. Next one is the issue of the large cover strips on you thigh backs. It looks like you are at the correct 25MM size on your calves. The thighs, however, are really wide.It seems like the halves come together behind your knee. Did you need the extra room near the top and if so, did you need that much? We are looking for more consistency in the cover strips on these parts. To have have one thin and one wide is just too distracting. We can discuss this further once you let me know how your thighs fit at the top. Next hing I would like to touch on is your side shims. On your right side, the top of your kidney and the ab plate should create a straight line even with a shim installed. You are a bit off the mark.Again, I can't see your interior strapping, but I assume you have the male snap installed on the ab and if the connecting strap is attached to the kidney and is too long, it would allow for this type of movement. A shorter strap would solve this. On your left side, the rivet placement needs to be addressed. It has been suggested that if a trooper is in need of side shims, to keep in mind your rivet placement. For Centurion, the split rivets on your side should really be kept together and not separated. Here is an example of a trooper who accomplished this. Although the rivets are a tad close together, the general idea is there. He also mixed up some ABS paste and filled in the seam for a much better look. He had suggested that above. Please look into making some of these changes. You will see the overall improvement of both the look AND fit of your armor. Congratulations on your EIB accomplishment!!!

A little more forward progress has been made. I wanted to get the obligatory Allen screw changes out of the way. I flattened and drilled out the blobs on the muzzle.I found that there really was no material behind these areas so the allen screws needed to be glued in to keep there position. But they are in.Next up was the screw at the bottom of the pistol grip. I replaced this one just because everyone does it. I have jumped off many a bridge for this same reason!!!! The cast on this handle was very good and I contemplated leaving it. But alas, I did it anyway.There is a ot more meat in the grip so the bolt actually threaded into it quite nicely! I went back and installed the nuts on the power cylinders.These were actually little screws which made installation a breeze. I just made sure the holes were drilled on center, screwed them in and clipped the heads off when I was happy with how much was left over. I cleaned the ends with a Dremmel cutting wheel. I then went back and addressed Verns comment on the knurling pattern on the front sight. He indeed was correct on all counts so I tried to make the adjustments by sanding down what I "overknurled". The pattern is now removed from any areas lower than center horizon. Now onto something I have never been happy with in regards to the doopy kit. The magazine. Stealing a picture from Vern's sale thread, you can see how the magazine sits in the mag well. It touches all sides. It's not supposed to. The magazine is supposed to sit further forward making room for the magazine retaining clip like this.Since the walls of the doopy mag well are so thick, I was able to grind out a bit of material on the muzzle side allowing the magazine to sit in the properer place.I will deal with the mag retaining clip later. The other issue that bugs me is the end of the magazine itself. Doopy was able to make a mold and cast a magazine but not the end cap?????? Maybe they are going for the look of that shot of the screen used blaster with a piece of wood or whatever made the end flat. Whatever the case, I didn;t want this one to look like that. First, I ground down the end a bit.I am going to make a new end with scrap ABS.I will be heating up the sides and bending them to mimic the curl of the metal on the original clip Like this.Fist, I marked the outer edge of the mag itself. Those will be my bend points not to go beyond.I then heated along this line with a LOW flame on the torch.I tried using a hobby iron, but it just didn;t melt the plastic evenly. It just pitted the surface. This pic is actually the SECOND attempt. ANYHOO! Once the plastic was soft enough along this guide line, I used the edge of my saw table to make the even bend along this line. I purposely left extra material on the sides. Heting and bending plastic is not an exact science. I would bend it first then trim it to size. I repeated this on the other side. I then trimmed off the corners. Although the this picture shows the end cover on backwards, you can see how the front of the cover bends downward slighty.I did this with the hobby iron.Now to deal with the button nub on the bottom. Not knowing what size the actual hole was, I eyeballed it a drilled it out. Next, I needed to find something that was the correct diameter to fit into the hole. But it also needed to be metal as I planned on heating it and creating this nub into scrap ABS. A drill bit end fit perfectly. I heated it up.I made several attempts to get it right. The heat trasfer between the bit and the plastic is unpredictable. I kept pushing it too fast and melting it through. I finally got it right.DUH!!! Didn't think about this. The button would need to sit under the new cover I made which sits flat on the Doopy magazine end. I trimmed out the button.I made the button plate round and ground a recess in the mag end itself.Once it was deep enough for the base plate sit flush, it fit and looks nice.I carved the "off" into it next. That came out a little rough but I'm not too worried about it. More soon, hopefully

You can apply with whichever weapon you want. I just wanted to make sure before I do my final review.

Listen to Mathias you should!

Are you applying with the DLT-19 or do you have an E-11 you would like to add?

http://s273.photobucket.com/user/albisancho/media/IMG_20140217_18005_edit_1392681676940_zps2s7o99do.jpg.html This pic the forearm seems very tubular and big at the wrist. RS is very customizable and with there being no ridge on the underside, you can fit it perfect to your body. I would have someone give you a hand. Tape the ridged side to hold it together. Put the Forearm on and have your helper squeeze the halves together until it form fits to your arm. The halves will overlap on the underside of your forearm. Have your helper release the wrist side slowly until you can get your hand through the opening. Once you get to this point, tape the underside together to hold that fitted position. Now you can find a common line to cut on both halves on the underside. You will notice that the forearm will be conical like your arm: wider at the top thinner at the wrist. This process can be used on every two piece part(biceps, shins, thighs)