gazmosis

Hey John! Thank you for your application for EIB! It's good to know there's another "beefy" trooper like myself in the Legion! Let's look at your armor!! CRL Requirements: All required photos have been posted and your armor meets the requirements for EIB! Nice work, Trooper! That said, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: There are a few adjust that I would suggest that will go toward improving both the overall look and accuracy of your armor. The first thing that needs to be changed are your ab button plates. Although you have the correct color placement, they should be increased in size slightly. They should be in the 10-11 MM range. Most importantly, however, the plates themselves should in no way extend beyond the platform they are attached to. (See archive photo Germain provided above.) These will need to be removed and trimmed down to fit properly. Second are the overall fit of your thighs and grieves. I understand that they needed some work to fit your body type. They do look rather roomy, though, in the lower portion of each. Both the human thigh and shin/calf are conical in shape (wider at the top narrower on the bottom) You armor parts should follow this shape as well. Hopefully E6000 was used in your armor construction. I would suggest opening up the rears and having a helper wrap the thighs around you squeezing slightly. Then back the squeeze off until comfortable. You might not notice much change at the top but should notice a lot of overlap at the bottom. If you do this with both your thighs and shins, you will notice an improvement in fit, mobility, as well as a more streamlined overall appearance to your armor. Just make sure to size your shins with the boots ON!!! Centurion Suggestions: From the looks of the small details on your armor, you have Centurion on your mind. The Centurion program focuses on all the small details. As mentioned above by Germain, the power pack attached to the lower right thigh needs to be fixed in two ways: first, it needs to be attached to the ridge that runs the bottom of the thigh not to the main thigh body itself. Second, you need to use a solid head rivet not a standard pop rivet as a means to attach it. This should be ideally a speed or cap rivet but could be a split rivet. The ab button plates are a must fix, (sorry to bring that up twice) , I would look into changing out the pop rivets that attach your thermal detonator clips to slotted screws, I would shorten up the strap that connects your drop box to the main belt. Anything over a pencil width is too much here. In regards to your blaster, there needs to be a cocking handle present in the channel behind the ejection port(see above pic), and I would look into changing out the scope to an M38 or M19 type. The recessed band around the center like on yours are from the "A2" scopes like the M38A2 or the M47A2 neither of which was used for the blasters.If situations allow, everyone should experience a DD build project. Whether a full kit or pipe build, you will not be sorry with the outcome. Please feel free to contact me if you should have any questions. Congratulations on EIB!!!!

Looks nice!!!!

For the sake of future troopers referencing your Centurion application, you should have all required photos posted or at least a link to your EIB application. Its easier for others if all pics are present but a link will work. The DLT pic you posted shows all aspects that need to be seen so additional pics of that are not necessary. Thank you for asking, though.

Before I do the final review of the application, is your DLT-19 the only weapon you are applying with?

YES!!!! PAINT HAS BEEN APPLIED!!!!!! Nice work with those power cylinder bolts. Thanks for the mention of the magazine, Sir! Is that a mold flaw in the front foot of the scope or did we have a little dropping accident?

Stunning build, young man!!! Did you ever get back to retouching those ab buttons???

THAT is a thing of beauty!!! WOW! We need some of these builds pinned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please post when you will be holding welding classes so we can all learn your skills. I just threw my blaster out. It sucks compared to this.

Your blaster is blue!! Nice detail work so far!

I would upload weapons pics, too!

Hey Clive! Thank you for your application for EIB ANH Stunt. We don;t get to see too many BFA armor sets. Yours is a nice build! Let's get to it and look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. Your armor meets all the requirements for EIB. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Your armor is a good fit to you! If I had any comments, it would be regarding certain details. Although it doesn't affect your applications, Your TD clips are not matched. One side is squared and one side is rounded at the corners. Also, the clips should not overlap the control panel. I would suggest this slight adjustment be made. Centurion Suggestions: It would seem from many of the details you have on your armor that you intend on applying for Centurion. This program relies heavily on the specific details. There are some adjustments that should be considered here prior to a Centurion application. First, look into sealing the shim seams on your sides. The rivet placements are correct in that you placed them on the shim itself. ABS paste can go a long way to clean up those shim lines and make that seam come close to disappearing. You can see in this masterful example that it can be done well! Next is a point regarding your blaster. The height of your scope rail is a bit excessive. This is an easy fix using the present scope rail you have. Your goal is to have it be roughly 10 MM above the blaster surface. Next I wanted to discuss the details on your helmet. Handpainting the details is always a challenge. I commend you for taking on the task! I would suggest a couple changes, however. You painted your rear trap vent lines all in a row aligned vertically. The vent lines should be in the shape of the trapezoid itself with the outer most lines angled then becoming more vertical as they reach the center. The other thing I would look into is an adjustment on your cheek stripes. They are curved correctly and the correct color but they are very thick making them seem bunched together. I think your placement is good, they just need to be thinned out a bit. Make sure you have all the correct Centurion photos on your application updated with any changes you make. Your armor looks great and with that, I'd like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!!!!!

Drooling...nom nom nom nom

In the majority of the cases where I have asked the ab buttons to be reprinted, it was because they were too small not due to a color problem. As for your helmet fitting concern, I don't have an answer for that having never worn an SDS. RS is very roomy

I am still pretty sure that Jeff really doesn't have a grasp on the term "recasting". If DVH took the original parts, poured silicone over them, made molds, poured resin into those molds......THAT'S recasting. Sculpting your own version of someone else's work is in no way recasting. I'll tell you what, Jeff, come after me. I molded a Sterling magazine to make plastic reproductions. I am guilty. On second thought......just crawl back under the rock you came out from.

So are we!!!

Welcome to your dreams come true, Sir!!!!!

The bar has officially been set. No such thing as the average doopydoos build anymore

I am so humbled and blown away by all of your responses ans support. Thank you all so much!!

Final assembly day has come upon us. I laid out all the parts and took a second to realize what a great ride this has been. I have been taught so many things and learned so many things this experience has been priceless! Anyway, I began with the scope/counter assembly.Once that was done, I flipped the blaster over to glue in the trigger guard. Since the trigger is spring loaded, I needed to secure that out of the way until the glue dried. This time gave me a chance to re-do something I wasn;t totally happy with...the magazine. Since I am fairly close to the guy who made these replacement magazines, I figured I should plan accordingly regarding my paint choices. I decided to go dark gray again however NOT dark gunmetal. I began with an acrylic primer and topcoated this with the dark grey. I broke out my real Sterling mag for wear patterns and weathering. Where there was slight wear but not down to the metal revealed the same color as the darker portion of the main bolt. I mixed dark gray, flat black and brass to achieve this. I painted the small scratches on the top face. I then went with a tiny, thin brush to dot on the silver to areas that showed metal. I think I am happy with the results. With the glue now dry on the trigger guard I could finally attach the folding stock!!! I wrestled the stock hinge points over the hinge nubs.Once they were in place I was able to replace the rivets and secure them with the original pins. I neded to twist and press them into place with long nosed pliers but they are REALLY secure.With that in place, I could mount the scope rail assembly.Then secure the end bewteen the rear sight uprights with the screw I pre-tapped earlier.Next I moved onto the counter wires. I wrapped a length around a pencil to achieve the coil. Although my roll is not marked, I want to say this is 24 gauge electrical hobby wire for trains. Four coils.It took some trimming, but after several attempts, I finally was happy with the length. I pre-drilled the holes earlier in the counter tips. I just pressed the wires in between the fuses on the power cylinders. They locked in there nice. With the magazine dry..................DRUMROLL PLEASE!!!!!! And finally...........................the end result: I wish to thank all the previous builders for having the talent that led to the ideas I stole and used here. I really appreciate the input from everyone here who has been in the midst of their builds and who contributed with ideas and suggestions. I hope this will help out another trooper in the future.

No I have not, Germain. It has been just about a week that the counter has been complete. Keep in mind, I didn't use a huge amount of glue in these areas. I REALLY didn;t want any squeeze out here.

Germain: I put 4 strategically placed dots of E6000 in the corners of the recess with a toothpick. I didn;t want any of it to show or squeeze out. E600 EATS paint on contact as I found out.

I wish RS would read this. They constantly build their suits with the split rivets place incorrectly

Sorry it has been a while folks. Between my vacation time, an RS suit, a ATA TX suit, and this blaster, my time has been stretched but it's all coming together. All this time off gave the crinkle finish plenty of time to cure. Now I start with the final color scheme. I laid out all parts that I was going to paint so I wouldn't scramble or forget anything. Here are my weapons of choice. I mixed these together until I arrived ata color that came close to the present color of the folding stock. I did not want to paint the stock. It has such gorgeous weathering already, why mess with that? The camera focussed on the background but you can see my paint tests For max control of this paint, I will use the trusty airbrush.The paint dries quickly so I was able to get several coats onto all the parts. The paint goes on so thin that none of the wrinkle effect would be filled in. Although the coverage was good, I stepped back and convinced myself that the color was too light.I was right....it was. I mixed up some of the matte black and knocked down the color a bit. You will see this was a good decision later on. I let that dry for a day and moved onto the t-tracks. These were going to get matte black as well. The areas surrounding the t-tracks all needed to be masked off.These were hit with the airbrush as well.I gave these ample time to dry before messing with it further. While the grips were drying, I though I'd move onto some minor assembly. I needed to get the counter all squared away. I did a final trimming of the readout and glued both the readout and the sight glass in place.I also installed the screw on top.I never replaced the side screw so I touched it with some brass paint to make it look like I did. Tee hee! Grips had enough time to dry. Next was some off color parts that were fairly important to get close. These were the main charging bolt (both in the gun and the extension I built) the magazine release button, and the little cylinder on the back of the mag housing. This isn;t just a lighter gray. After playing with different colors, I came up with this combination.This is a military gray NOT the gunmetal. The gunmetal has an ever so slight bit of blueishness to it. I didn't want that on these parts. I originally thought I'd brush paint this color onto the parts but with the brass in the paint, it just wasn't going on smooth. Ot comes the airbrush again. Everything needed to be masked off. There were no other details to paint in this color, so after it has a chance to dry, I mixed silver with flat black to paint the tracking stripe on the bolts. I wish the picture didn;t come out so darn unfocused. With all the topcoat colors applied, I was able to put a little detail on the trigger group assembly. IT was a perfect time since I had this "dirty silver" as I call it for the areas underneath the trigger and on the sides.I ended up using this silver to do some weathering around areas of the whole blaster. You'll see that in a bit. I did weather up the power cylinders and touched the rear wires with some red markings. I need to glue some pieces into place and final assembly can begin!!!!

ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!!!!!???????? Just mind blowing!

Oh yum yum yum