gazmosis

----------- The final resting place of the brow line is YOUR choice. Make sure the outside edge of the eye lines up with the front of each trapezoid and the brow sits flush and tight to the face all the way across. In looking at your helmet, you have a little ways to go in trimming out your eyes especially at the outer edge. I hope you can see the red lines I marked.

I know this is true with AP but RS has always had 4 individual shin halves. Unless there was a mistake or a change, that's the way it has always been.

Looks good. Draw a line right along that seam where the kidney overlaps the ab and cut there. I can't clearly see the line, but from the top of the indent at the bottom of the kidney, cut straight across to meet the downward curve towards the cup of the cod.

All hyperfirm weapons are Centurion approvable

Hey Leonard. Thank you for your Centurion application! You do have one incredible set of of ATA armor that's for sure. This is the Centurion program so we will look at your armor much closer this time. As I said before, you have an incredible set of armor, but there are some changes that I would like to see made and a verification shot I will need before I can pass you. Although these might not be things listed in the CRL, they are points that should be honored. CRL Requirements: All of you Centurion submission photos are present. The main points regarding construction have been met. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: The first issue that I would like to touch on is the painted details on your helmet. Hand painting is never easy, you did a wonderful job. The one thing I looked at a lot of pictures to verify are the upper corners of both the front a rear traps. You have extreme sharp corners and that is just not something that has been supported and is an easy fix. Dip a brush in thinner. Dab off the excess and massage the corners until the paint is removed and the corners are rounded rather than sharp. The second adjustment is to the lower ear cover on your left side. This should not be OVER the neck trim. It seems that a little can be trimmed off of this. I marked what I mean in red:From the looks of it, you can either trim it or fold the neck trim over it. Either way, the neck trim should dominate in this area. The next bit I'd like to cover is the highly discussed gap between your bicep and forearm. ATA's forearms run big.....we all know that. The strap that connects the forearm to the bicep is a great idea with this armor. However, I don;t think your forearm being too low is as much of an issue as your bicep being too high. I know you are looking to emulate the strap across the bicep look, but that is not as necessary as proper fit. The original suits, except for the few that had bicep hooks, didn't even connect the bicep to anything. They just floated. You have long arms. I would install a strap that connects the shoulder bell to the bicep. here is an example:This will allow you to control exactly where you want the bicep to sit and it will remain there. A strap that connects the forearm to the bicep then wouldn't hurt either. The next thing that Needs a minor adjustment are the cover strips on the rear of your thighs. I wen;t back and looked at your EIB thread and they must have been washed out there because they didn't show up enough there for me to catch it. The cover strip should not go over the lower ridge on the thigh bottoms but up TO them. The last item is a verification. Could you post a pic showing the width of your holster straps. They seem overly wide to me but pics can deceive. The straps should measure 20 MM (3/4 inch) or SLIGHTLY more than that. These are all simple mods that will take your armor to that ultimate next level. Please contact me if you should have any questions.

The only way I would even consider making it move is if I carved our the bolt molded into the ejection port. Moving half the bolt would be goofy. The new bolt portion is anchored from underneath.

Yes it will

I love this level of detail

You just keep rocking this build out, Tino! Where'd you get your end ring??

OOoooh thanks, TJ! I just might have to go get that now. Thanks!!! ............more mods to do! Paint pushed back.....again

We all get excited! Thanks for getting on that. You obviously put a lot of thought and work into your armor. With a little work you can get to Centurion if you wish to do that. I will check back later today.

Hey Dominick thank you for your application to the EIB program. Nice to see another beefy trooper. We are the muscle!!! Anyway, let's get to your armor. CRL Requirements: You are missing one photo of your right side close-up detail but I can make out the necessities form your "arm raised" pic. Other than that, your armor meets all the requirements for EIB. Congratulations!!!! Nice job on your build. I know it was a challenge. Other-Armor Fit/ Assembly: The cover strips on your thigh backs are enormous. Do they really need to be that big?? Although this won;t affect your EIB, they just may be a little too distracting for Centurion. Can the width be reduced at all if you plan on applying? Thank you for adjusting that sniper knee plate. Mathias mentioned about the lower portion being cut at an angle. Here is a picture of a top notch sniper plate for your reference.I noticed your chest riding up a little over your ab plate. You might change out the elastic on your connecting straps with nylon. This will keep the two anchored together. Unless you need the movement. You also might want to look at the length of the straps connecting your holster to your belt. They should be about an inch. They look a bit short to me. Centurion Suggestions: If you plan on applying for Centurion, there are some issues that need addressing. I mentioned before about the excessive width of your thigh strips in the back, You will need a Sterling based blaster upgrade. Rubber or rubberlike handplates on top of rubber chemical gloves The power pack on the lower right thigh needs to be attached in the upper corner not in the center. You will need a male snap in the upper right corner of your ab plate. This one might need extra attention: your waist belt. Although you have trimmed the corners at an angle, you have trimmed a lot. Too much in my opinion. They are usually trimmed about 1/2 inch down and 1/2 inch in from the corners like this screen used belt: Lastly, If you mix up some ABS paste by combining ABS shavings with acetone, you can make a paste to fill in the seams on your side extensions for a much cleaner look. Thank you for your application, congratulations and go make your Garrison proud!!!!! Troop on!!

Hey Jason: I want to follow up on my promise to get to your application tonight and here I am! Thank you for your application to the EIB program! Let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: With the picture of the front of your helmet, your photo requirements are complete. You have a nice set of armor and are so close to your EIB award. However, The thermal Detonator is an important part of the TK armor. This needs to be constructed correctly even for basic approval. The control panel in the center is upside down. This is a pic of a screen used "TD" from the archive photos available here.Take care of this little issue and I will certainly pass you. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: There are items the "Centurion Suggestions" that could go under this category but I felt they were more important there because they affect Centurion appllication if that is the direction you choose to go. The one suggestion that doesn't affect any application outcome but helps to look a little more accurate is the tube stripes on your helmet; particularly the end ones. You have the Dave M "hand painted look" helmet decals. Trooperbay sets these on the sheet according to the side they should be applied to.....including the tube stripes. On yours the last two tube stripes begin to curve inward towards the frown. They should actually curve outward away from the frown like these.Since they are just decals, you can gently pull up the last two on each side and re position them. This is a suggestion for correctness but again, not a requirement. Centurion Suggestions: Centurion is the ultimate in attention to detail to come as close to film accurate as possible. There is some work that needs to be done with your armor if you plan on applying for Centurion. First is your blaster. I know that is obvious but I must state it. A British Sterling based blaster is required. Latex or rubber like handplates and rubber chemical gloves, Next, you will need to install a male snap on the upper rightmost corner of your ab plate. Next, The straps that connect your belt drop boxes to the waist belt need to be minimal. If a pencil can fit between the belt box and the belt, that is almost too much. Yours are a little excessive. Next is the ammo pack on the lower right thigh. Fir Centurion, it needs to be attached to the thigh by a cap or speed rivet in the top corner like this:Although not required, the rivets are usually painted white after installation. Next are the left side rivets on your ab and kidney plates. They need to be switched out for domed, solid head split rivets instead of pop rivets. Also, the rivet placements are correct in that they are located 10 MM in from the seam. However, they are a little bunched up. They should be evenly spaced from top to bottom. Here ar the rivets from a screen used suit. With the belt on, the bottom rivet isn't even seen. Take care of your Thermal Detonator and get your EIB first and then you can gently work your way up to Centurion.

How would Arnold say that? "Aaaaaaaaahh! Don't keel yoah cowntah! Get to da chahpah!"

Did you already buy it? Why are the ears trimmed in one pic but not on the other? If you buy it, you will need to buy new hovi mic tips for the front. I have no idea what those serrated cylinders are. Decals are silver not gray.

Always drill a pilot hole. Try and get your drill bit just shy of the width of the threads on your screw . You want the threads to bit into the resin without too much stress. Don't force it to go in. Cracking the resin would be bad.

I thought about doing this and still might. However, the length of the threaded plug is a problem. If I drove it to look like the original, it would go into the mag well. I am sure I could cut it down, though. I'll look into it. Thanks Germain! A friend of mine has been developing these as a way to make a scope that you would need to paint like any other molded scope but being clear acrylic, you would already have the clear lenses. It's a great idea and works! He is not currently selling them or I would have posted something about it. I have told him to but he is so busy with other things.

WOAH!!!.....................I missed something. The magazine release button. I just cut a threaded stud and inserted it into the center of the round mark on top of the mag housing,.I did the same to the button itself.Although it threads on, I will give it a dab of glue just to be sure. Now that is done, everyone will move upstairs to get a bath!!! I haven;t found too many products that break down grease and other harsh chemicals and is safe for the plastic. I sprayed this on each part and gave it a gentle scrub with a chip brush.Things are set aside to dry. Perhaps onto paint by the weekend!!!

Ok, Chadd. I am back and let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All required photos have been posted. Your armor was a pleasure to look at!! All physical requirements of the armor have been met for EIB acceptance, Congratulations and Welcome to EIB!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: As I stated before, this is wonderful armor and just as wonderful of a build. Your paintwork on the helmet is something of beauty. A pleasure all around. I noticed from the inside shot of your armor that you don't have any mechanical means of your belt being attached to your ab. I assume you are using velcro. This will have no effect on EIB or Centurion, it is just used as a way to be more like the originals, quiet (no little tearing noises) and keeping your belt in its proper location. This is just a suggestion. Centurion Suggestions: I know that you are working on a Sterling based blaster. Before applying, make sure all pictures on the checklist are submitted and verified to your build. Your shoulder bridges at the chest intrigued me. They are sitting up off the chest. With the rest of your build being so complete I assume they are glued and not sitting on Velcro. If they are glued and sitting up just a tad, that is perfectly fine. Congratulations again, Sir!!!!

I promise I will get to this tonight, Chadd!!!!

Well I believe this might be the last mod/construction bit I need to do prior to paint. I started the counter bracket earlier but never finished it.I drilled the mounting holes and when installed, I like that it kind of blends in and isn't too thick.Now to bend the extension and mark the screw holes. I needed to bend this a couple of times and was lucky it didn't crack like making Thermal Det. clips. The bend needs to be 90 degrees or the counter won't sit straight up and down. I didn't want the screws to be overwhelmingly big. I assembled everything and like the way it sits.Last mod!!!! (I think) The Doopys counter has the top screw location marked incorrectly. I sanded the location flat and filled the rest with putty. I chose a screw that matched pretty close to an original. Next I needed to mark the proper location on top.I t was kind of important to choose a drill bit that matched almost perfectly to the diameter of the screw head. I didn;t want much if any recess showing around the screw head. I drilled the recess and the threads and installed the screw.Some of you might be disappointed, but the mold of the screw on the face was good. With it being painted overm I felt no reason to make extra work for myself to replace a screw and have it look exactly the same if I hadn't replaced it. But, I did carve out the gap behind the top posts where the wires will attach. More soon. Thank you to everyone for following and your words of encouragement!! This had been a blast so far.

The 10mm measurement is supposed to be from the seam between the ab and kidney. I have always done that measurement from the rivet center. You have left a little more return edge on your ab, but not as much as I have seen on other RS builds. Yours looks ok.

Although Germain and the CRL's are correct, there is a little wiggle room here. Unless you used nylon webbing at the means of closing your side gaps, elastic will stretch. If you had a REALLY big dinner or are a bit gassy when taking your pics and there is a slight gap on both sides, it is forgiven. Just nothing excessive, please!

Looking good, bud!! Um......your tube stripes are missing.

Beofre you glue everything up, can you post a pic of your bicep on??