gazmosis

Ray: Thank you for addressing these changes. Future troopers who strive for Centurion look to these threads. to see how it's done. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion!!! I do want to make a note. It states clearly in the CRL that a solid head rivet must be used and standard pop rivets are not allowed to attach the pack to the lower thigh. . Since you have gone through the extra effort to fill the rivet center and paint it, I will allow it. Speed or cap rivets are readily available and should be used as the method for attaching the thigh pack.

In the close up shot of the front sight, who's hair is that??

Thank you guys...I sanded the wrong ones off and added some to the top of the arch. I'll post pics later

This the way I have seen it done. Thighs first. Then shoes, then shins. Main body clamshell next. Attach shoulders. Slide arms on. Gloves and helmet last

Post up the pics!

I was asked to help a fellow Garrison mate with his Doopy build. IT was just a matter of good timing that made it possible to buy a Sterling folding stock. Now to marry the two....hopefully. I want to thank all those master Doopy builders for their efforts and ideas...I WILL BE STEALING SOME OF THEM!!!! Here we go!!!!! WARNING!!!!! PIC HEAVY!!!!! Standard kit. Parts inventoried.Hmmmm...what shall we do first? Let's dig in to that real Sterling stock. What is this thing??I like this one much better!!If anyone wants a resin Sterling stock let me know. You just pay shipping!!! Anyway, some things needed to be done to blaster's main body before anything. Since the stock will be functional, the holes in the bottom needed to be drilled out. The vent holes had little nubs that needed grinding down for a flat surface.Small guide holes were drilled.Then the main holes.I needed to change up bits for the front vent hole. It is slightly larger than the others to accommodate the hooking mechanism.Once that was drilled, a small notch needs to be carved out for the stem of the hook to rest into.In doing this, it revealed obstacle number one. The space between the hook and the stock body is about 1/8 in. Between the thickness of the resin and the inner black tube, the thickness at the locking point is clearly 3X that. I needed to carefully grind this area down so that the hook functioned properly. Once this was done, the catch worked perfectly. Now that the first issue is solved, onto the next issue: the hinge point. Many believe that the Sterling stock hinges on a bolt or rod that runs through the body. This is not the case. The arms of the stock sit over hollow studs affixed to the larger tube that is attached to the main receiver behind the pistol grip. The "rivets" on the outside fit into these hollow tubes and everything is held in place with pins that run through everything here. To start with the mod, I needed to remove the pins so I can take everything apart. You can see them clearly in this pic.Using the nail, I knock them out with a gentle tap of a hammer.With the pins out, the rivets fall out and the arms of the stock can be spread and removed from the old receiver section. You can now see how this all works. This is a little different than the Doopys kit looks. First I needed to find something that could stand in for the hollow studs on the ends. A very unlikely source showed itself......a pen.I cut two pieces longer than what I needed. I will recess these tubes into the hinge point on the Doopy receiver. It is very thick resin there. I re-connected the stock and marked the center of the holes on the arms. I found the correct drill bit, and drilled out the holes on each side.Looks pretty much like the original set up.They were, however, just a tad bigger than the originals. Rather than try to sand the nubs down, I just increased the holes in the stock arms slightly. A little drilling, alittle grinding....Perfect fit and function!!!WHEW!!!! Next up I drilled out the little hole in the underside of the butt cap. While this was out, I might as well glue the D ring retainer in.I wll proboably replace this white ring with a brass or darker colored one but that's for another time. I thought I'd have a go at the front sight. As you know, the front sight is mostly filled with resin and needs considerable carving/shaping. After cleaning out under the arches and around the sight base, It was time to make the sight itself. I didn;t have a flat screwdriver around that I could ruin, so I took a tip from another build that used a roofing nail. I found the correct drill bit and drilled the hole for it first. I took the nail over to the grinder and shaped it into the sight insert. I cut it off the nail head and inserted it into the hole. I put a drop of superglue on the underside to keep it in place.looks nice.The one thing I noticed was missing was the criss-cross pattern that is seen on the front and rear of the arches. I added that detail just to say I did it. Next up are the power cylinders. I took a good look at that million post thread that discusses the center fuses. I wanted this detail to really stick out. The doopy power cylinders only have 2 molded into them. Other builds have just added a third, but I didn;t want them to look piled up on each other. I decided to start from scratch. I ground off the ones molded into the part.Blank canvas to start with.I don;t have access to the fuses so I need to make my own. The closest thing I found that might be the right diameter, is the frame from a model kit. The fuses are tubes that seem to taper on the ends then have a little disk and a lead wire attached.I cut three pieces and tapered one end. I then cut the disks for the ends.I know that the original fuses had both sides tapered...blah blah blah....this will be good enough. I attached the disks to the tapered ends. For the lead wires, I didn;t want to deal with actual wire wire. I needed something I could shape and glue easily. I used an old modeler's trick for making spark plug wires and tank antennae. I heated a section of this frame until I was able to pull it apart into a strand. In case you are wondering, that is an RS Props suit for a different garrison mate. ANYHOO!!!!>>>>>>>You pull it until it reaches the tickness you want, then just let it cool. It can be bent and cut to whatever size you want. I mentioned earlier that I didn;t want the fuses to look piled on top of each other like this, so with some shims that I later removed, I glued them to the back plate. I shaped and cut the wires and glued them in place as well. I like the result. I saw on another post, a guy build some really cool looking wires for the backside. I tried to copy this.The stems and nuts I had for the ends of the cylinders were too small. I got larger ones but didn;t install them yet. I decided to move on to the pistol grip and making the trigger move. First step was to drill a hole all the way through for the hinge pin. I will be using a miniature not and screw for this. I cut the screw to length and hand drilled a recess of both the screw head and the nut. I drilled out a pocket for the pen spring in the handle and the backside of the trigger. After some tweeking of the trigger to free up some movement, I installed the assembly. Like I feared, the trigger hits the trigger guard but I don;t care. It moves and is cool. I will fill the screw recesses with putty later on when I fill all other imperfections/mistakes. Although I plan on glueing the pistol grip, I added a screw for extra measure.That is as far as I got. More pics when I make more progress.

There are many good RS builds on here. Study them and most if not all your questions will be answered. Don't go through it alone!

I'll bet the color is not as drastic as you might think...ATA is pretty white. It will be fine

Your build looks good so far. In regards to the neck opening, you should put the helmet on sideways then screw it forward on your head. If you are already doing this, you either have a larger mellon, or you need to trim a little off the neck opening. I wouldn't worry too much about it until the construction of everything is done then trim the neck opening last.

I figured as much but needed to make sure. WELCOME TO THE RANKS, TROOPER!!!!!!! Passed!

I know how much you LOVE being critiqued.........I agree with your belt height. This needs to be raised to even with or slightly overlapping the button plate. You forearms are big. You should re-size them. By doing this, you will find it much more comfortable to wear. Another fix is the cover strips on the rear of your thighs and calves. The cover strip on your calf should only come to base of the ridge at the top of the grieve itself as pictured above. The cover strip on the thigh should come to but not exceed the ridge at the bottom.

SERGI!!! Incredible ATA build. Such a nice job and great attention to detail!!! CRL and EIB Requirements: It is killing me to have to say this. Every aspect of your armor meets required standards but I have no proof of green lenses. I can only assume because of your build they are, but rules are rules. I need a shot showing your lenses are green before I can pass this. Armor Fit/Assembly: These points are some things to consider. They will not affect your applications but they could be looked into. First thing are the tube stripes. Your paint job on the helmet was so good I had a problem seeing if they were hand painted or decals. Normally, the tube/cheek stripes are applied a pencil width from the cheek. Your seem a bit far away but not so far that I would say they need to be moved. Second is the length of the Thermal Detonator clips. They are REALLY long against your armor. The one picture shows the detonator not set all the way down on your belt. If it was, There would be a lot of clip hanging below your belt. You could probably take about an inch off the bottom and still be fine. Again, up to you. The third thing is your undersuit. There seems to be a lot of material gathering at your elbows. This should really be much more form fitting. Centurion Suggestions: I can;t imagine with the efforts you have put in and all the right details that you won't apply for Centurion. You are so close to that but before you submit, look into a couple things. Make sure you have a closer pic of your drop boxes and your gloves. Lastly, make sure you have a few scuffs on those pretty boots I would also look into a better fitting undersuit.top. Get that lens pic up so I can pass you!!!!!!!

That's just it...they are supposed to be

Sergi is sending me an action shot and I will complete the application when that is posted.

All these gorgeous pics without an action shot...........tsk, tsk

I have spoken with one of the GMOs in regards to this. The CRL makes no mention of any difference in hand plates. This has always just fallen into the unwritten rules category. From this point forward, the only requirement of the hand plates that will matter for EIB or Centurion will be the material they are made of, and they must have the details of one of the two styles seen in the film. Hero designation will retain the helmet and the holster attachment as the focal points.

Thanks for the grabs, Eric!!

This does settle it? There will no longer be "hero" and "stunt" when it comes to hand plates?

Since I am such a computer moron.........could someone get a screen grab and post it?? Scenario: our heros are in the trash compactor, the walls are closing. Scene switches to 3PO asking the TK guard if he can take R2 down to maintenance. scene back to compactor room. Luke us seen climbing on top of garbage...puts hand on wall= clear shot of stunt hand plate. Only Han wears the hero hand plates???

Just remember thighs are conic not tubular. Your thighs on your armor should be like that as well. Wider at the top than at the bottom.

Cheek stripes look dark. Beautiful build

We love builds! All you will need is new hovi mic tips and new straps on your hoster.

You keep going with that weight loss idea! Nothing says you are on any time frame to apply for Centurion. It is an honorable goal that will make your dream come....well...true-er!!!!

You'll have a great looking belt!

That sounds like a lot of masking for things that I am not so sure should be gloss black. I agree about your approach right up to the masking of all the different parts. I would do the hammered paint to everything except the grip. Then top it with a satin top coat. Then you could mask off the grip and hit that with the gloss black to make it stand out more. Pick up some silver to paint the area surrounding the trigger. Whatever you do, make sure to wipe the blaster down with a mild detergent or mineral spirits to get all traces of mold release and hand oils off before painting.