gazmosis

Thanks, Tim! It's great that we can play blaster build ping pong!!!

You seem WAY too stressed! Just send the whole thing to me as it is along with the remaining parts and rid yourself of this torment.

Progress. I decided to do a little gluing and filling. This was a very bubbly cast of these parts. Lots of little bubble indents to fill. Oh well. I glued on the shields of the ejection port and the forward vent hole. I let that set and drilled the mounting holes for the scope and set that in place just to see how it looked.I wanted next to finish the repair on the grip. Sadly, it was a total fail as the glazing putty didn;t have anything to grip to. I sanded off all I could. After some head pounding, I mixed up a small amount of Plasti-weld. This stuff hardens well, sticks, and simulates the resin itself. SUCCESS!!!!I drilled out the hole for the securing screw for the rear of the scope rail.I picked up a real counter recently and did a side by side with the doopys. There are several subtle differences between mine and the Doopys one. I will chip out the small channel behind and below the metal connection pins near the main body. But one major difference is the bottom.I will need to build those details back with scrap ABS another time. While I had the counter and scope rail out, I figured I would make the counter mounter. (I made myself laugh) I used some scrap sheet steel to keep things thin.This will be bent properly and holes will be drilled. However, I promised my daughter I would strip and refinish a table for her room. I went to Menards to get what I needed and while I was there, I picked up two new screws to mount the scope and look what else I found.I needed the spring to be 6 inches total so that it would stick out of the back end of the blaster to keep the butt cap in place. This was the correct diameter for what I needed. IT was a little short at 4 inches but the coil of the spring was too tight. Nothing a little stretching out won't solve. I stretched it and installed it with the new bolt section and butt cap. I think I like it.Why can;t anything on this darn build be simple!!!!????

Thank you for following up on this so quickly, Bob. Welcome to the ranks of EIB!!! I do agree that you might need a retainer strap or smaller straps between your chest and ab. I can't see the brackets in these areas and that surprises me that with the brackets it doesn;t hold the overlap but I am certain you will figure that one out . Congratulations!

Perhaps pictures can be deceiving. The pic above with the metal ruler makes the rivet look farther outside the 10 MM range. The pic above looks closer. Well played. ONWARD, SOLDIER!

Oh no!! Nice catch, Germain.

That looks a lot more than 10 mm. In your pic, the center of your rivet is more than 1/2 inch. 10mm is closer to 3/8 of an inch. I am enjoying the heck out of this build!!

You are such a stud! HHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Hey Bob! Thank you for your EIB application. MTK is an armor that I think we will be seeing more and more of. It is good quality armor and Mike is making improvements on it that are leading to more accuracy. (Rear thigh seam ridge removal, bicep seam ridge removal, belt rivet cover updates) It is nice to see a good build that shows the potential of this armor! By the way, I was unaware that MTK updated his thermal detonator. Did yours come with the kit or did you order a different one? Let's get to your armor. CRL Requirements: From a construction standpoint it looks like you have your bases covered. However in order to fully approve you I need a couple things addressed. Your photo submissions need to be complete to verify everything. I need left and right side pics with arms raised, close up side details, and a right side blaster pic.Also, It looks like you did a bicep hook mod and would like to see a clear shot of the straps on the shoulders that goes around your biceps. Armor Fit/Assembly: Again, you did a great job on this build. I do agree that your biceps are a bit big but they aren't too distracting. Nothing wrong with a beefy trooper who's "guns" fill out their armor! I would, however, look into a more mechanical means of attaching your waist belt. Velcro wears out over time and makes a lot of noise if you decide to become a more animated trooper for your fans. I wanted to touch on a couple things with your helmet. First, you left a lot of material on your ears. I can appreciate the feeling of getting to a point with this challenging aspect of your armor that they fit just right and you don;t want to mess with it any more. Although this won't affect your application, they could stand to be brought down some. Another point is your tube stripes. They were applied a little low. there should be a pencil width between the cheek and the stripes themselves. Also, it looks like you have them on the wrong sides. You have the Dave M decals and the tube stripes are not uniform in their positioning. The lowermost stripes are supposed to curve towards the outside of the helmet not inward towards the frown. Neither of these will affect your application either. Just accuracy suggestions. Centurion Suggestions: It looks like your build had Centurion in mind right out of the box which is great! Building it with the Original style metal brackets was awesome!!! Just please review all required photo elements and points to cover before submitting. Let's get those pics posted so I can pass you!

There are so many Sterling references already out there and the research is ha of the fun of it. If you didn't look through 30 build threads, you would never have the great ideas that are shared. I use the "favorites" button to remember the builds I like

Now you are gonna make me re shape my sight. Darn you doing it all correct n stuff.

I don't know if I have any other choice. Even if I opened up the rear opening larger, there is still the ID to contend with. I still have not addressed how I am going to keep all this against the cocking channel. Moving things to the surface leaves a void underneath it.

This isn't a pipe build. None of my bits are long or precise enough to further hollow out the receiver between the butt and the bolt. There will always be a give and take factor with doopydoos kits.

I have't figured that one out yet. I think I am leaning back towards the EZ coil radiator hose spring

Check these and other images from the archive pics

Your time to sweat and get more gray hairs like me will come, Aaron!!!! Don't envy me...I have become a nervous, emotional wreck!!!! ANYHOO!!!!! Progress this time began with the last stages of the charging bolt mod. I needed to re-create the diagonal ridge that runs across the bolts face. Regular scrap ABS was way too thick. Luckily, I saved a lot of the PVC scraps from the RS build you see floating in the background. I found one of the thinner pieces and cut a strip to width.I began carving out the piece to fit along the lines I previously traced and when it fit right, I glued it in with CA glue. I needed something instant because getting a straight strip of plastic to bend around the side of a cylinder would not have worked with the wait of E6000.I did the same with the bolt piece inside the gun and it looks nice. As I see it, I only have one major mod left to do.but before I dive into that, I want to get some of the smaller stuff out of the way. There was a lot of resin flashing that needed to be trimmed off of the ejection port deflector and the similar looking part at the front of the blaster. (no pics...boring) I re-shaped a bit the lock that sits on the underside just in front of the butt cap. I dug out the front and replaced the through pivot pin with a chunk of finish nail.The doopy rear lock is actually a little boxy. I took this picture with the lock upside down so you could see the ridge that I cut along the length of the lock. Now Onto the last major mod: The selector switch. Sorry for the bad pic again, but I noticed this chunk missing from the grip and I can't figure out how that happened. ???!????!!!!!!??????Gonna have to build that back up with putty. So.................the switch. Obviously my goal is to make it move. I don't trust just gluing it to a stud. You could drill/tap a stud into the handle itself but then you could NOT screw the switch onto the stud without the paddle of the switch hitting the grip. My solution was to use a stud but make a retaining pin that would go through both the switch and the stud inside it. Here were my items for this at the beginning.The finish nail WAS going to be my retaining pin but I wanted something I could tap into the resin. I used the same tiny screw that I used for the power cylinders.First thing was to drill out the hole for the main stud.I screwed in the stud and worked it back and forth to make sure the threads were well cut into the resin so it moved fairly easy. The paddle on the switch is not the sturdiest of things!!!! Once I was happy with that, I cut the stud to size and with the same cutting wheel on the dremmel I cut a screw slot and cut the sides down to give me a flat side on either side of the stud to drill my through hole. I then drilled my stud and my though hole in the switch itself and threaded the tiny screw through it.I had to trim a little more off the stud because it wanted to thread and I wanted it to just push onto the stud. I adjusted the stud so it lined up with the hole on the switch and threaded the screw securing the switch to the stud. Since I didn;t go all the way through the switch base, I just needed to clip off the tiny screw head and micro-grind the remaining stud flush with the switch base.The switch movement.With that out of the way, I thought I'd end the night with the bayonet lug. This part is also very boxy out of the.....um...box......so that needed some adjusting also. as you can see in this pic of the bayonet lug, it is a bit curved toward the mounting point on the barrel. I marked this on the doopy lug. I used the sanding drum to take off the proper amount of material. I did use studs to glue the lug in for a little security. BUT YES!!!!! I GLUED ANOTHER PART IN!!!!! More for another time.

I just wonder why no one has ordered the original ones from Apex or IMA??

This group is filled with hugely talented people. Many will do this better than this. Thank you, though, Ian.

Pics or it didn't happen!!

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it will remain with us in the legion.

That's a lot of trimming!

Love this so far! Great work!

In an irregular hole, it is almost impossible to get a rotating drill bit to stay centered and cut true. I would use whatever will grind out that space with control and precision. That Dremmel accessory page is making my mouth water!

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26537-tk-6647-requesting-anh-hero-eib-statusawarded-6th/Mon Cal's kidney is a bit too small. Look here: I would contact ATA or MTK to see if they can set you up.

I had a LITTLE time this morning to get another issue crossed off the list. Why can;t anything be easy???? UGH!!! Anyhoo........I wanted to deal with the end piece of the charging bolt that will eventually sit in the cocking handle channel. First we need a cocking handle. On the real gun, the handle and its round base fit into a recess in the bolt. I wanted to emulate this but permanently attaching it without the chance of it falling off was my challenge. First, the base round stage on the cocking handle was too thick so I sanded it down a bit.Since the diameter of MY imitation bolt was much smaller than the real one, I sanded the edges to round things off a bit. I has previously marked the location I wanted the handle to rest. I used a forstener bit to drill out the flat bottomed hole the handle would sit on. This took some practice because too deep and it goes through, too shallow and it sits too high. I needed it just right for my next step. To attach the handle, I wanted to use a threaded stud of some kind with a nut from inside. Easy right? Not really. I had to keep reminding myself that all this needed to be done with the bolt remnant INSIDE the gun cavity. First I located my screw and nut. I matched the drill bit and drilled out the center of flat bottomed hole and threaded it into it. In removing the material for the stage, this didn't leave much material for the threads to bit into. I was hoping I wouldn;t have to use the nut but alas, it was a necessity. Getting a tiny nut onto a tiny screw in a tiny space INSIDE a blaster cavity.............luckily, I had a set of hemostats to grab onto the nut. Every other tool was too wide and wouldn't fit into the pipe end. Ok, now that issue is solved, onto the handle. I put the handle in a drill press vise and drilled out the center.Using the same screw I used to tap the hole in the bolt, I did the same for the handle. The final mounting screw will NOT have a screw head on it. I lopped off the screw head and did a test run outside the gun. I grabbed the hemostats to hold onto the screw stud from the inside and hoped for the best. I screwed the the handle onto the threads using the larger hole at the butt end of the channel and it worked out. Nice.