gazmosis

Can't wait to see it. !!!!!

A guy in my Garrison who has an incredible R2D2 has the "Night at the Roxbury" theme programmed into him. We are trying to coordinate that for an upcoming con. "What is love?....baby don;t hurt me!"

There is a dremmel bit for every application!! This is my go to bit for almost every precise detail grinding I need. It comes in smaller sizes to get into practically every space ever needed. You can remove the tiniest amount of material with it and it makes flat bottomed holes with practice.

ATA has always seen the probable issue and included two sets of ears. Practice makes perfect!!! Upload your pics to a picture manager like photobucket and copy them from there

Hi Tim! Thank you for your application for Expert Infantry! Troopermaster is always a pleasure to look at! Especially one done as well as yours. CRL Requirements: All correct photos submitted. All costume points on CRL have been met. Well done, Trooper!!! Welcome to the ranks!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This is a wonderful build. It won;t affect anything, but might consider raising your thighs just a tad to take away some of that gap between the ab and thigh tops. Also, the gap between your ab and kidney clears for EIB but is very borderline for Centurion. I know everyone is built different. Is this just a case of being relaxed or would nylon instead of elastic help to keep these parts from separating?? It may just be a case of SUCK IT IN and pull that belt tight! . Centurion Requirements: Look into the above statement prior to applying if you intend on doing so. Just make sure to have pics of all required points. Well done, Tim!

This is news because I don;t think ATA offers "hero" ears but perhaps that has changed. ?????????????????? Stunt helmets have 4 bump ears, hero have 3 bump ears. Can you post pics?

Progress continues. Now that I have the glass for the counter readout window, it needs a home to sit in. The end of the counter needs to be fixed. The mock window needed to be sanded flat. The correct space for the new window was marked.To cut out this rectangle and keep the sides straight, I first plunge cut the outline with an flat blade exactoI then removed material little by little with a flat bottomed grinding bit on the Dremmel until it was deep enough that the glass's profile was correct.A smaller recess was cut into this rectangle for the readout to sit in. The final result.I also needed to cut a recess for the counter reset button below the readout. Next I needed to make the reset button itself from scrap ABS.The ends were sanded, it was cut to size and glued in. Pic later. Since this is a fake counter and I donlt have the metal tabs on the end to connect the wires to, I drilled holes in the ends where the wires will emerge from.Something else I noticed and confirmed with Vern (thanks...AGAIN)the screw location on the top of the counter is off center.I marked approximately where it should really sit.I will sand/fill the bad screw and put a real one in at a later time. I wanted to switch gears and work on the scope/counter rail. I put a 90 degree bend at the end of a 3/4 aluminum flat bar.I measured out the width of the top hole and took material from the left and right sides so that it would fit into the hole. I determined how high I wanted the rail to sit off the receiver body and marked that on the rail. I cut a slot on each side at an upward angle to match the curvature of the receiver.I then put a slight outward bend on the lower half to ensure it would never come out of the hole once it was finally attached.How the rail looks from the front inserted.I am going to mount the rear of the rail so it sits between the uprights of the rear sight. I marked and trimmed it until it fit nicely.This will be held down with a screw between the rear sight at a later time. Now on to dealing with something that has been gnawing away at me. The charging bolt and ejection port.There are several problems here that pose challenges. #1 is the incorrect location of the diagonal ridge on the bolt itself. This sits way too high. #2 is the lack of bolt showing in the cocking handle channel behind the ejection port. #3 is the limited inside diameter of the receiver itself. This is how thick the walls are.Sorry for the bad pic. Anyway, The wall thickness of the real Sterling receiver is 1/16th of an inch. Many people insert a dowel rod into the cavity and top it off with a stack of abs to mimic the bolt sitting near the surface. I was going to try a different approach using a rod alone. The rod is PVC that matches the inside diameter.I drew out my plan to see if the approach was plausible. I drew a cross section showing where the cocking channel is. The small lines just below and on either side of the channel shows the 1/16 wall thickness.The PVC sits in the center like this.I want it to sit here.I drew lines and shaded the areas within the tube that I would need to remove material that would allow the PVC to sit closer to the surface.I grabbed the Dremmel bit that I wanted to use to see if it would fit.It works on paper (famous last words) Now to carefully grind away. I marked the 1/16 th depth on the sides of the cocking channel so I knew where to stop. Grinding away.This was a painfully long process of constantly checking the fit of the PVC within the receiver, then grinding more out. Finally I got to the point where the walls were thin enough to allow the pipe to rise to the surface.DON'T YELL AT ME! that is not a nick in the lower center of the channel. It came like that. Anyway, with the pipe on a sick to hold it up, the bolt face molded into the ejection port and my pipe actually look like one piece.Now to punch up some reference pics and relocate that diagonal ridge.You can see that the ridge sits much lower in the port opening. First I need to grind down that bad ridge.Using reference pics, I marked the right location as well as that......um......other thing above the ridge.With this marked, I re-inserted the new bolt rear section to transfer these marks and the location of the charging handle.I will be using scrap ABS for the new ridge on both parts. Next I needed to carve out the.....um...area above the ridge.My eyes are ruined for tonight. More later.

You are not the first person who has gone through this so don't feel bad. I am sad to say that you should put a call into RS for another ear (s). I say Ear(s) because I don't know if you wanted to give both a shot now that you have had the practice.

Spectacular job switching those ears so quickly. Your 6th EIB is now official!!!!! Congratulations!!!! As for your cover strips. I was not only referring to your forearms but your biceps as well. The cover strips are nothing less than enormous. You have more costumes than the average FX warehouse so you have experience behind you. I am confident that you can find a way to make those cover strips a little less distracting. You are a remarkable trooper! It is an honor to have you with us here!!!

Wow, Todd!!! Going for the gusto!!!!! Well played. CRL Requirements: All required photos are in place. The Hero ANH armor has special qualifications that classify it as "Hero" Aside from the 4 connections on the holster straps, most of these differences between the stunt and hero armors are represented in the helmets. One of these differences is in the ear covers. Hero helmets require the ears to have three (3) bumps on the ears not 4. Although this detail is not recognized for basic 501st approval, it is on an EIB applications. I have strained my eyes to confirm or deny it, but it appears your ear covers have 4 bumps which would be the only thing standing in the way of approval. Could you please clarify this for me in a closer photo? Armor Fit/Assembly: T/MC armor is that small??? I only thought AP was that small. You are 160 Lbs. and need a side shim??? Centurion Suggestions: Your armor build are always a pleasure to look at. Your attention to detail is something that really stands out. It appears from the small details you have applied to this armor, you may very well intend on shooting for Centurion. Specifically the Han Hero suit (different handplates!!! NICE!!! DLT-19 NICE!!!) Anyway, Some things I would suggest prior to applying if that is your intention. Either you are a master at small detail painting, or you used decals. I am sure you are aware of the clarifications needed there. My main concern is the color of the tube stripes. They seem to be the midnight dark blue rather than the lighter, "medium" french blue. Although this is something I would still pass if you didn't change it, the darker blue for ANH is being utilized less and less. Records show ab button blue and tube strip blue are the same. Second, your power pack on the bottom of the right thigh is either molded short or was cut short. This should extend to the corner edge of the lower ridge. I would look into replacing it. Next are the cover strips on your arms. They should be in the neighborhood of 15 MM and your seem really excessive. Is this a fit issue or can they be scaled back a bit?? Let us know about those ears, Todd!

Well done on that forearm. Just spot the seam directly across from the other one. Make marks on both halves at the top and bottom so you can use a straight edge and make your cut lines.

What did you use for the lenses?

No issues with the bicep return edge. You could place a strap connecting your bicep and forearm. You would never worry about it again. One thing I would look into. The top of your ab plate is showing under the bottom of your chest. I would attach a couple nylon straps with snaps to prevent the chest from moving above the ab plate. Nice armor, brother!

The ones I settled on were 4 MM so I will consider that close enough! Thanks for chiming in Andy! Thanks to everyone for following and your kind words!!

I strive to continue to improve my build, help others achieve the highest accuracy they can and continue to promote the great work being done here at FISD.[/quote Never stop doing research and learning. Pass on that which you have learned.

It's totally up to you. I like the smooth side but that's my own personal preference.

It looks like your blaster has eyes! Nice find!

Everyone looking at this Centurion application should be standing and applauding. Not only is the armor and its build a delight, but this is one of the most complete applications I have seen in a long time. All Centurion applications should be like this one. Steve, you are to be commended. The Centurion program welcomes you. Your Garrison should be proud.

I bet that scope and counter give the blaster some nice center weight. Added realism!!

You have an opportunity to do some real custom work here. With the thigh tops tucked under the cod, you could actually trace the cod outline onto the thigh tops. Make your return edge bend along that line with a hobby iron.

Muhahahahahahah

Thanks again, Germain. As for the height of the lens profile, I am cutting a recess into the back of the counter for the lens to sit into. Once it is recessed, it will have the correct profile.

After all that.........back to build business! Look!!!! I actually glued a part on!!!!! 2 in fact!With that setting up, I thought I would move onto the counter.A big thanks goes out to UK Simon for working up the number display for me in the TK number of the guy who's blaster this is going to be. Germain also offered up a display, but Simon's was closer to the real font of the numbers. Thank you, though Mr. Horseman!!! I know, Vern, I know, there were no yellow numbers!!! I just thought it looked cool so I went with it. ANYHOO!!!! I printed out a measurement image to get the right placement of everything on the backside of the counter and the display.First thing was first, I needed to make the glass insert. I started with a 3/16th piece of plexiglass.I marked it to approximate size and cut it down.I needed to shape the top into a domed shape so I brought it to the belt sander.After removing a good portion of my fingers on the belt sander, I took over with 180 grit to further shap it. Once I was happy with the shape, I began the polishing process. I started with 180-220-320-400-600-1000-rubbing compound on the Dremmel polishing wheel at the lowest speed, to polishing compound with the same wheel. I like the outcome.Here it is over the number display. More a little later I took Vern's advice and went back to a screw/nut size on the power cylinders that I originally thought was too small. I guess I should have trusted my instincts, but That is why troopers help troopers. To help them make the correct decisions.

After all that.........back to build business! Look!!!! I actually glued a part on!!!!! 2 in fact!With that setting up, I thought I would move onto the counter.A big thanks goes out to UK Simon for working up the number display for me in the TK number of the guy who's blaster this is going to be. Germain also offered up a display, but Simon's was closer to the real font of the numbers. Thank you, though Mr. Horseman!!! I know, Vern, I know, there were no yellow numbers!!! I just thought it looked cool so I went with it. ANYHOO!!!! I printed out a measurement image to get the right placement of everything on the backside of the counter and the display.First thing was first, I needed to make the glass insert. I started with a 3/16th piece of plexiglass.I marked it to approximate size and cut it down.I needed to shape the top into a domed shape so I brought it to the belt sander.After removing a good portion of my fingers on the belt sander, I took over with 180 grit to further shap it. Once I was happy with the shape, I began the polishing process. I started with 180-220-320-400-600-1000-rubbing compound on the Dremmel polishing wheel at the lowest speed, to polishing compound with the same wheel. I like the outcome.Here it is over the number display.Now to fit it properly. More a little later

Vern's Blaster shoppe...your one stop shop!