RogueTrooper

Hey Dallas, welcome to the FISD!!! If, you are looking for a great TK kit...then you have come to the right place. Just look through the forum at the builds, and see which suit or suits that you like the most. If need help or got questions, just post them. BTW, could you post some pix of your 212th clone, even if it is not totally finished. Even though this site is mainly about Stormys, we still geek out on all armor..... Make yourself at home.

ABS is pretty stout stuff and if you get a scrape, ding or even a little chip on it, there are ways of fixing and filling without anybody knowing that there was a problem. But, the one thing is, if you do by chance "chain saw" through something all of the armor makers do sell individual parts. But I don't think you will have that problem. If you have put together model cars and planes at any point in your life, then this would be the same thing, but with white armor. It is normal to worry about spending money on something you might mess up. But as i said, you will have lots of support here on the FISD and from your local garrison. So just shake the nerves out, dive into probably the must fun you will have, assembling your armor. The Georgia Garrison website states that they have 85 active members. If you haven't already contacted them, then give one of the command members listed below an email. Let them know you want to join, and your concerns about your build and find out if anyone would be willing to help you with it. Also, ask them if you can help out at their next troop as a handler. That way you get to know some of them and see they costume up close... CO: Kristen R Kuipers (RC 6247) email: [email protected] XO: Darrell L Phillips (RC 6234) email: [email protected] GML: Jesse D Brown(TK 5090) email: [email protected] GWL: William A Smith(TK 332) email: [email protected] GPR: Jimmy Burns(TK 1025) email: [email protected] GWM: Izzie Herman(SL 3474) email: [email protected] GCR: Jason H Rutledge(SL 9218) email:[email protected] So! just shake the nerves out, dive into probably the must fun you will ever have, assembling your armor

Well, my opinion, it's always best to have a suit tailored for you. So getting a kit and starting from scratch is in my opinion the best way. I know wanting to stsrt ASAP is something that is immediately gratifying, but building your own suit gives you a feeling of accomplishemnt and you can show off your skills. If you are nervous or worried about messing up your build, you will have a lot of support from the FISD helping you along the way and I know there are members of your local garrison that will share their tips and help you. More than likely one or two of your local garrison will be more than happy to actually help in putting together your suit. It should be a snap. The one thing that you have to look at is that you said that the Clone Trooper is completed and painted. Something that you need to consider, is whether the Clone Trooper suit works for your body frame or are you going to have to mod it for you? In the long run you may end up spending more time on the completed suit than you would starting fresh with the RT-Mod kit. Hope my opinion helps.

Check your local cloth shops and the Tandy leather. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/

Yeah... not good, not good at all... And what nerf herder would do that to the lid? And what nerf herder would want to bid £35.00 on it? Me thinks medication has contributed to this situation.... either, they are off theirs, or have taken too many.....

Nice looking Blackhole kit you got there Vern I will be watching this intently... Now, to pop some popcorn, and get a large soda pop....

O' NO!!!!!!!!! not the five teeth!! I keed! I keed! If you are doing a stunt lid, most were 4 per side but it did vary from 3 to 5 ..... Me thinks Ainsworth needed to slow down a wee bit when SDS origially made them back in '76. But then, we would not have the lovely wonked lids......

Rim Shot to Snare, Cymbal. Bdump, Bdump, Crash!!!

I'm out of it for a little while and I miss out on all the cool builds.... Great build Kevin

Great work Chris! Nice build Top notch work on the TK lid. But, if I might put my .02 cent worth in... Since your lid is a stunt style and not a hero, I think that the Brow trim should be raised a little. Take a look at the comparison between the original stunt and original hero lids. HERO: STUNT: HERO: STUNT: Keep up the great work!

Hi James, You might try posting the same question on the 501st forum and MEPD.net. Maybe between the three someone will be able to answer your inquiries. If not, there are a lot of great white armor kits that you can be see and talk about here!

I would not worry about your height. There are a lot of people adorning the white armor that are between 5 feet and 6 feet tall. It is all in the way you build your suit, so it fits your size. Obviously your are better off getting a kit that fits averge size like AP, TM, ATA, and TE2. You have serveral choices in materials that the makers use. Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene, or (ABS) is a complex combination of three different plastics. It is also what the original screen used TK suits were made from. High Impact Polytyrene or (HIPS) is an aromatic polymer made from the aromatic monomer styrene, a liquid hydrocarbon that is commercially manufactured from petroleum by the chemical industry. ... There have been many debates on which is the better material for trooping. These debates range from which has sharper detail to which is going to withstand the long haul. Also, painting versus polishing, and which are more accurate to the screen used suits, etc. etc. I say it is up to the individual's taste, like Pepsi versus Coca Cola. ATA made with HIPS TE2 made with HIPS TM made with ABS AP made from ABS Here is a couple of pix from AP. Mark Harrison said the person in the pix is 5'7" and there are no mods to the AP suit in the pix. AP

Thanks for posting them

Sounds like fun, I would be there, but it's tooooo far, far away. Maybe next time, or since you fly BIG planes, please send one around to pick me up. I keed! I keed! o'well.....

Absolutely, AM is a good kit for beginners. I got to see one of the helmets that AM is putting with it and liked it a lot. You might want to look into getting the whole kit and not just the lite kit. But if you want a list of some helmets that I personally like: TE2's (Bumpy Cap and Back Helmet) ATA, TM, AP. Basically any one of these will have that screen accurate look. The only thing is if you start mixing armor and helmets, the color tones of the material will not match up. But, if you are going for screen accuracy, the original helmets were out of a khaki green HDPE and then painted white. The suits were made out of a milk white ABS. The original suits and helmets did not totally match, except for the six Heros (The helmets that Han and Luke wore/and for close ups) that were made out of the same milk white ABS. To recommend something is a personal preference. That is like telling someone what types of condiments they are going to have on their burger. I know that there are more accurate suits out there, like TM, TE2 and AP are some of the top choices in that bracket. AM is still not as screen accurate as the ones I mentioned above. My suggestions: A Dremel or Dremel like, a boat load of spring clamps, a lot of E-6000 glue, a good box cutter and a lot of blades, industrial style scissors, a good long metal ruler, some rare earth magnets, industrial strength velcro, black elastic, and rivets. You have already mentioned undersuit, gloves, and neck seal. You will also need a canvas belt, a holster, blaster and a nice pair of boots. Also when it comes to your helmet, YOU WANT FANS!!! I know I have probably forgotten something on the grocery list. I know someone else will pick that ball up and run with it. Oh yeah, you will need a nice tub (like Rubbermaid) to carry your armor in to keep it from getting banged up.

I wish you the very best of luck Shawn with your dealings with Matt..... Has Matt used the "I have been very sick and I have not been able to work on your order" or I just started a new job, and I have not had time to work on your order". or both? Move along, move along

Sweet looking ROTJ head holder Can't wait to see more

I did not get video, but I do have pix of her at CV from the "Celebrating Celebration with Sansweet". If you play them in a fast slide show, she does dance There is a video on YouTube of her call: "The Best of Amira Leia" that's good Here is the link:

Sorry no

In what has become a hotly anticipated tradition at Cons everywhere, the ladies of Leia's Metal Bikini gathered in force of 360 total at Celebration V. Can't wait to see how many there will be at the 30th of the ROTJ......

Wicked armor.... But, I think it needs some battle damage too

That's one mean lookin' Blackhole suit ya got there, Dan!

Hey Tiffanie, I am not hooked up on Facebook, and I am not going to for other reasons, that I will not go into. I would like to see your finished officer's tunic. I will keep checking back to see if your friend Charlie Brown post some.

Hey Robert, Nice looking workmanship on the TX belt But, I think over on the 501st Spec Ops Det about the Shadow Stormtrooper Visual CRL (Blackhole Trooper; Stealth Trooper) states: BELT BACK: Made of gloss black plastic, shiney/glossy black leather belt or similar material to match the armor. 3 to 3.5†wide. See if they do accept before making them up. Here is the link:http://s11.zetaboards.com/501st_Spec_Ops_Det/topic/7273245/1/ SHADOW STORMTROOPER (a.k.a Stealth Trooper; Blackhole Trooper) BACKGROUND: Shadow Stormtroopers were first created by the Imperial agent codenamed Blackhole. Instead of plastoid their armor was cast with stygian-triprismatic polymer, to provide sensor stealth and make the armor black in color. After Blackhole's disappearance during the Galactic Civil War, the Shadow Stormtroopers found their way into other imperial groups. Most notably as part of Carnor Jax's private army. NOTABLE APPEARANCES: Gambler's Worlds (1979-1984 comic strip: Los Angeles Times Syndicate) Crimson Empire (Comic: Darkhorse) (TX-6465 pictured above) REQUIREMENTS FOR THE SHADOW STORMTROOPER ARE: MUST HAVE: 1. BODY ARMOR: Black, glossy professional-quality Stormtrooper style body armor. This may be made of ABS, HIPS, Styrene, or Fiberglass. Armor may be slightly weathered, showing silver, grey, or black scratches. But armor must remain glossy (never matte black, ever) No LEDs/Lighting of any sort is permitted. * CHEST PIECE: * SHOULDER STRAPS: These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. * BACK PLATE: * SHOULDER BELLS: * BICEPS: Must be fully closed. * FOREARMS: Must be fully closed. * HANDPLATES: Trapezoid shaped hand guards, that cover the back of the hands, are required. * AB PLATE: May have a fixed or hinged cod for added mobility. Cut cannot be visible from the front.The ab plate also has a button area. All 9 buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter and gloss black in color. * KIDNEYPLATE: A single black plate may be used instead of a separate kidney and butt plates. * BUTT PLATE: * BELT FRONT: consisting of a correct plastic front (TK ammo belt). *** DROP BOXES: which dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt via black straps. * BELT BACK: Made of gloss black plastic, shiney/glossy black leather belt or similar material to match the armor. 3 to 3.5†wide. ** O2 CANISTER/THERMAL DETONATOR: Must be present on the back attached to the belt. This is a gloss gray or black cylinder 2-2.5 inches in diameter with gloss black end caps and a gloss black control pad affixed. It may be permanently affixed to the belt using fasteners or be clipped on. * THIGHS: that close in the back (and the right with an ammo belt described below). ** AMMO BELT: must be present on the right thigh. * GREAVES: (one with knee plate described below). Greaves should close in the back. ** KNEE PLATE: Correct trapezoid knee plate on the left greave (diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not acceptable) 2. HELMET: Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS TK style helmet. * COLOR: is to be gloss black in color to match the body armor. * CHIN: May be Gloss Black, Flat Black or Silver in color. * FROWN: Acceptable colors are battleship gray in color (like TKs), Silver or Gloss Black and paint does not leave the teeth area. Teeth cut out and backed with black screen on either side * TUBE STRIPES: Acceptable colors are Gloss Black, Flat Black or a very dark Navy Blue. There must be at least 9 and a maximum of 15. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side. * CROWN INDENTS: Front and back; Acceptable colors are battleship gray, gloss black or flat black, Rear indents may have black vertical lines. * TEARS: Acceptable colors are battleship gray, gloss black or flat black and may have black vertical lines. * EAR-CAPS: The body of the ear caps must be either gloss black or flat black. Acceptable colors for the vertical stripes may be gloss black, flat black, or Navy Blue * LENSES: Either opaque flat or bubbled helmet lenses are acceptable. May be Black, Smoke, Silver, or Dark Green in color. A spectator must not be able to see your eyes through the lenses when the helmet is worn. * MIC TIPS: Must be present. The body is gloss back or flat black. May be similar faucet aerators, vintage hovi mic tips or resin cast replicas. * COMMUNICATION: May have a voice amplifier and/or voice effect board w/Static Burst. * FANS: Helmet fans and helmet cutouts for ventilation. Any cutouts must be backed with black screen so a spectator cannot see your face inside the helmet. 3. UNDER THE ARMOR: * BODY: A Solid Black or dark Navy Blue under suit is required. This may be either a one-piece or two piece, Non-textured, non-shiny material. Wide vertical ribbing is permitted, not required. Commonly used items for this include dive suits, dance unitards, and “UnderArmor†or “Starter†warm-up suits. [iMAGE COMING SOON] * NECKSEAL: Black ribbed neck seal. The ribs should be horizontal, not be loose, and should extend from the base of the neck to the top of the adam's apple. * GLOVES: Black gloves with no ornamental/decorative stitching is permitted. Enclosed fingered, non-textured, with no visible straps. May be made of leather, rubber, nomexm, or jersey-style cloth. * BOOTS: Must be Glossy Black "Chelsea-style" Boot. These boots are an ankle high, lace-less boot that may have an elastic u-shaped gore on the sides and up to a 1†heel. They should be made of leather or vinyl and must closely match the TK standard. No ornamental stitching is allowed. 4. ACCESSORIES: * PAULDRON: May wear a solid black pauldron over the shoulder of the arm carrying the sidearm. * HOLSTER: made of black leather or leather like material, worn on the left. Must be worn when carrying an E-11. May be attached with loops, snaps or may be riveted the belt. 5. BLASTERS: May be a modified toy, scratch-built, resin cast, hyperfirm/rubber, vacuum-formed, a Master Replica, or a demilitarized gun. They may be weathered and must never be able to fire any sort of projectile. Hasbro blasters are discouraged but allowed. LEDs/sound effects (for firing effect) are permitted. * E-11s: ** FOLDING STOCK: Does not need to function ** HENGSTLER COUNTER ** D-RING: On the rear ** SCOPE: Correct style ** T-RACKS: Total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered) for Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast. Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-racks if you cover the original Hasbro with an "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes ** Resin E11 modification kit is recommended for the Hasbro E11, to include Hengstler counter, cylinders, and spiral black wiring from counter to cylinders. * DLT19 (MG34): An E-11 holster is not worn while carrying a BFG. These troopers continue to wear drop boxes and a thermal detonator with a BFG. An unmodified MG-34 is acceptable but upgrading an MG-34 to DTL-19 is highly encouraged. ** T-racks on the barrel with wire on the ends ** ejection port cover added ** small disk on left side added.

Here are some links for good undersuits: -----------