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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2024 in all areas
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Hi Troopers, I am going to assume that a number of you who are requesting access are looking to order a racing shirt, and that closes tomorrow. Given you're waiting on us, if you want to order a shirt please contact @jsilvius with the same link you provided here, and so long as you meet the costume requirements he will help you order. We will catch up on the paper work later. This only applies up until the deadline - 29 May 2024 at midnight US ET (GMT -4). Any requests after closing will unfortunately be declined. Apologies for the delay in your approvals.3 points
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Made some progress. I’ve got a job out of state but I brought my printer along and have afternoons off to work on my armor. I kept the printer running all week. I’m printing in ABS. I know some people have difficulty printing ABS due to warping but so far with my enclosure I’ve been having success. My printer is a Prusa MK2.5S with a IKEA enclosure. I print at .15mm layer height but I also have been taking advantage of Variable Layer Height to squeeze out detail and print time. I’m printing at 15% infill and it seems super light but pretty damn durable and flexes well. I glued them up with an ABS juice of ABS and acetone, mostly being acetone but I’m adding more ABS supports to see what mixture works best. The actual alignment went spectacular to my surprise. I also did a test fit. Only the outside edges of the belt tabs were having trouble but I bowed the abs by using filament boxes as spacers in the back gap and it made the difference to get those last tabs to set up. Currently printing Nico’s Modified Helmet from @TKModder421 so stay tuned for that glue up as well.3 points
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Thank you for taking the time to review my EIB application, as well as providing all of the Centurion requitements. A lot of work and detail went into the your response, and I won't let it go to waste! I'll definitely start focusing on fixing up the armor to improve the overall look, i.e. helmet position, teeth mesh, etc. I'm super stoked to be a member of the EIB rank, thanks again!3 points
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UPDATE: The Wiki platform that CRL's are created on is currently having several issues. This is preventing us from logging into the documents and continuing to add text and images to new CRL's. I am waiting on updates from the LWM and LMO teams, but currently have no time frame on access. Hoping it's resolved this week, so I can get this one complete and into the hands of the LMO's1 point
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TK 98275 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=341941 point
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Not sure I could recommend that, it looks like the 5thHorseman files (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45171-first-order-f-11ds-the-force-awakens/) but there are parts missing in the photos.1 point
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Hi Isabel, You might have better luck at https://ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/, try get an idea of price and post up there and I am sure some one will be willing to take it off your hands.1 point
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Historically it's been a stack of two IKEA LACK tables. They fit Prusa and clone printers very nicely. https://blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/ Scroll to the end. I used to have one of these and it worked okay. You want a paver stone to set your printer on or you get a ton of resonance and noise.1 point
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Hello FISD. My name is Jason, I’m from Indiana and am about to start pursuing my dream of building a SANDTROOPER, with ATA out the picture I am currently stuck between RS PROPMASTERS and WALTS TROOPER FACTORY for my armor.1 point
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Thank you Glen! Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk1 point
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Side shims are looking good. NOTES ON BICEPS: In the original films, many of the biceps had an indentation, or "thumbprint" (normally worn only on the left) on the inside. As the biceps are interchangeable, this is not a requirement for any level. Coming along nicely.1 point
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I'm only chasing EI, but I'll look at making the adjustments, just in case.1 point
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Congratulations Trooper ! Welcome to EIB ranks1 point
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I covered mine in silicon so they don't catch, I have seen others cover in gaffa tape. This is one of the tricky areas, takes some practice but you should be able to get them on, I normally leave a loop of elastic on one end which helps give something to grab on to.1 point
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Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery1 point
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Hi Alfredo, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Before we start with the review, we would like to congratulate you, your armor looks great! -Starting with the helmet, it looks like you're wearing it too high. By wearing the helmet so high, too much of the neck seal is visible. If possible, we recommend that you remove some of the inner padding of the helmet (upper area) so that it sits a little lower. Reference images -You can add a black mesh behind the teeth to prevent people (especially children) from seeing our faces. This is a suggestion to "preserve the magic" . Reference images -It looks like the clips on your TD are a bit detached. It may be an optical effect, but if not, you can unscrew the clips, give them the correct shape and put them back on. You can take a look at the reference images to see its ideal position. Reference images -A very easy fix. Make sure the calf ridges are aligned. The appearance of your armor will be greatly improved. Reference images ********************************************************************************************************************************************************* Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -L3.The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Although it looks like those elastics are there, in the Centurion application we will need a better picture. You can place those elastics a little further back, so they will help the shoulder straps to go down to touch the armor. If not, you can give them a little heat (very carefully and little by little) to give them the correct shape. Reference images -It appears that the left side of this area opens slightly outward. Probably by applying a little heat (very carefully so as not to melt the ABS, even a hair dryer would probably do the trick), would be sufficient to be able to return the proper shape to that part of the armor. Reference images -This is one of the points that we DOs try to avoid, but in this case it is necessary, as it is far from its optimal position. L3. A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. You should remove the snap from its current positionb, fill the hole with abs (or similar) and make another one as close as possible to the upper right corner of the ab plate. It looks more complicated than it is, really. Reference images -In the case of the 6-rivet pack, the same is true as in the previous case. We believe that in your case, they are too far away from their ideal position and therefore, you will have to move them. In the first reference image, you can see the measures considered "optimal" for its repositioning. As in the previous point (Han snap), it will be necessary to fill the holes and make new ones. Reference images -L3 Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. Your left side is perfect. Only a small adjustment will be needed on the right side. Perfect! Reference images -This is a very easy issue to fix. L3-The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. You can put some Velcro on the inside of the belt to keep it in it ideal position. Reference images -L3.Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. It is very little, but you can glue the elastic to the belt (a few drops of hot glue or similar on the inside of the belt) and then, the boxes will not move from their position. Reference images -L3.The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. You will need to trim the abs of the belt a little so that the corners match the cloth belt. Reference image -There appears to be some weathering on the grip. L3.-"....T-tracks and grips shall be of a black plastic appearance with no silver/metallic weathering allowed.". A small coat of black paint will do the trick. Very, very easy... Reference images Nothing more to add Alfredo. Congratulations, now, you have the badge under your name . We are sure you will soon apply for the Centurion badge as well. Don't forget to request your EIB certificate :1 point
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One thing that I am noticing in the photo of your belt is that the canvas belt appears to not be lining up with the 45 degree cut outs on the corners of the ABS belt. It could just be a perspective issue on the photo if the canvas belt has dropped away from the ABS one. If you are aiming for Centurion, then you may need to trim the corners a bit as shown below. L3 CRL: "The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt." Reference photo1 point