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OP (MV) Post #52: A baby changes everything It's been a while troopers, for a build update at least. This short post is simply to say that I've made extensive progress on my build, and I'm in the process of compiling several thread updates for posting. In regular conversation some of you probably heard me give August, September, or October completion times, but something else has been occupying my time. Constantly moving targets over the past two years notwithstanding, I was really aiming to complete my build prior to the arrival of my second daughter, but both physical/time and mental barriers kept me from doing so. In fact, I worked right down to the wire before delivery, and on the day our baby was born (nearly three weeks early) I had stayed up until 2:21AM trimming and fitting pieces. Little did I know that we'd be heading to the hospital seven hours later, followed by virtually no sleep the next two nights (and coming weeks). Over the past two months I've picked back up my lexan scissors, sandpaper, E-6000, and daughter (HAHA), and can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Helmet completion Faceplate and cap attachment Ear trimming and fitment Neck opening sizing and S-trim installation Tube stripes Biceps Forearms

Dear Chemi, I am very gratefully the DO team approval my EIB requesting and suggested fixes for upgrade to the centurion requirements tips, thanks again

I don’t know why it made me create an account but this is my actual account the other needs to not be used and I wont use it again so write me here Hi everyone. Due to the nature of the NDA’s I of course was not allowed to take any pictures. But what I can tell you is this is pretty darn spot on what you guys have stayed here. I have extensive photos of my rogue one armor that I can’t post for a king time because it will affect my work. The rise of skywalker FOTK that I wore I only wore it once for a fitting because we were going to use them for Previz. But I never wore it again. They just gave us the helmets hahaha so I have a few photos of that. So here are my inputs. Helmet details are spot on. neck seal, there were two types. 11 rib and 8 rib neck seals. Zipper is worn front or back. There were two reasons why they were worn in the front, 1 because some pointed their heads down to see and therefore zipper was visible in rhe back. 2 the zipper was worn in the back and since they clothing tag it down to the under suit s lot of guys would take it off when undressing first break or lunch, and then put it on zipping it in the front. So either is acceptable. I cousins remember how they attached the chest to the back and yoke but sides were Velcro. shoulder bells bad the tab and it was metal but I don’t think they is necessary and I’ll explain it later. Tab can be any material. Since our kits are abs I highly recommend abs tabs. That’s what I’ve done Shoulder bells attached to bicep via a clip and forearms slid up. Picatinny rail moved box aside and you zipped up the forearms and box was velcroed down . gaskets were rubber silicon and for me I thought they were soft. They were trimmed in a fabric that protected them on the edges and an elastic back with a buckle in the front. Elbows and forearms were attached but we can separate them but they were attached via the elbow gasket Same with the legs. Thighs and shins were attached as well via gasket and spats were attached to shins but I didn’t see how. torso had a cross cross strap system that had a thin pad on it and torso zipper up the back. The thermal detonator and butt plate were attached by a webbing and came down the back and the belt pinned it down and buckled inside the pouch. the blasters I saw had many variations. Some didn’t have d rings. Some did and the rings were either black or white. I thought I saw one silver one but not sure. D ring plates were both silver and white. But there were quite a few black d rings. I think if we go white and white or silver and white ring or silver and black ring it’s good. Pistol I did not see gloves I could swear were the exact endor finders gloves and rhe hand plates had a deep groove in it. unfirtunately I didn’t have enough time to take other notes such as the boxes with black being cut out or not. It was my first day and just insane to be able to do this and I had planned on my second run to take more detailed notes and photos. However the pills on the chest I did see that they were cut out, but the box in the center of the chest, the black was painted in. And if I remember correctly the box on the wrist was painted or decal. Not one hundred percent sure. now on the overlaps, the thighs and biceps are overlaps. They are held in place by rubber bands. And they literally pry them open for you to get in. This can not be done in abs, our armor will crack. So this brings me to my next point. I hit the ground over 60 times in one day and nothing happened to my armor. It’s very thick polyurethane armor and very strong. So back to the shoulder bridge that’s why I don’t recommend metal. I contemplated leaving my biceps and thighs open and attaching a rubber material but I decided against it as the armor will crack when trooping and grow apart. The clips on the body armor were TFA clips rhat I saw while helmet clips are TLJ. Very weird. undersuit was a one piece and had shiny built in. But I heard there’s other sets with shiny shorts but couldn’t confirm it. Boots are exact imperial boots first order boots and they may get it from the same maker. I have my actual boots, neck seal, gloves and undersuit that I wore for the rogue one and clone trooper on kenobi. The gloves for the rogue one and clone are again exact gloves from Endor finders like the first order gloves and the boots for the first order snd rogue one and clones are the exact same boots. the thermal detonator is a separate piece screwed in to the back plate just like the clone and rogue one. The TD is hollow and it has a black pvc like tube that slides in. You can take it out but I don’t remember what kept it in. I’ve made my TD hollowed out and with the pvc tube and it is much lighter. Also on rhe other side of rhe tube I painted to match TFA: cod pieces are polyurethane so they flex but there are also rubber vids as well and shoulder bells and chest pieces for stunts. That’s why the cod is flexing in pics. holsters were actual functioning metal ones, the ones I saw. mall the armor parts are polyurethane and very thick and durable. the thighs are attached by two straps to the torso just like the rogue one armor except the rogue one armor had ribbing material to cover them. I didn’t notice that it n this armor. the torso had leather scallops and a front flat leather plate that held the belt and the cod piece. I noticed different shaped cod pieces by the way. and the notes on the cut pieces, yes w lot of times they are cut to fit the performer. We modified armor parts all day long and that’s why you see the different shapes and cute. Oh one more thing there were also foam thermal detonators and you could barely tell they were foam. They looked just like the regular ones. Same thing with the rogue one armor. They are for stunts. I didn’t see executioner axes or batans or prods . it’s pretty much the TLJ armor and if yuu want to enforce the different cut in forearms then you can. I have my rubber gaskets but they were only the actual rubber pieces and none of the finishing. It was quite nice what they had. I just got the rubber parts themselves. The TFA I know snapped in to place even on the torso. I couldn’t tell how because it was already assembled so I’m assuming Velcro. anyway those are my four notes. My armor is almost done. I’ve made some changes to it to function the way I prefer like using smaller shoulder to bicep buckles as well as the double buckles for the thighs attach to a belt and not the toro so. With abs I just think it’s too much torque on the armor and on a belt you get a lot more freedom. The torso attach puts too much tension and weight on abs but also shoulders. That’s it for now.

I FINISHED IT!!! I've got a bunch of pix to put up and will try to sound coherent whist being excited to have the HWT pack I saw on Kenobi. (totally geeking out here) I sourced all my parts from amazon. I know there's better places, but this was the easiest for me. I work a lot so just getting to hit an order button on one site really helped. I couldn't find everything in 5v, so I settled on 12v lights. I figured I could make the power work easier than finding 5v pilot lights and toggles. LEDs are easy but those pilot lights are a pain. Pilot light: The "Keenso" red 4 pack is a match for the lamps used in Kenobi. 12 volt, about $6.50. They bulbs are not held in those metal housings very firmly. I added a bit of glue to each internally. Toggle switch: I absolutely hate the ones I got, but they match the screen used pack. This is the "Twidec" 8 pack SPST. 12 volt, about $10. If anyone else builds a Kenobi pack, try to get a switch that has a screw mount on the back. Mine clip on and would not stay in place on my thick radio box. I had to cut off the clip mounts to keep the switches from pushing themselves out and glue them in place. Easy, but annoying. LEDs: Any white LED will work. These are 3mm "Edgelec" in a 20 pack for $7. Pre-wired, non-flashing, 12 volt. All the white ones in my parts bin were 5v, so I had to buy these. The Kenobi pack has a whip antenna, so I needed one too. Metra 14" universal. It's not lightweight either, but it seems to be the exact one used. (About $19) I removed my printed blocking plate and used the round one that came with the antenna. It's a lot more sturdy than my printed one and covers all but one hole. I set the printed one aside in a bag with the screws for reinstallation in the future if I needed. And yeah, the base got sanded to match the pack shape before I finished the project. I held the laser cut fascia on with just a few dots of E6000 so that I could peel it off later for this purpose. I glued some speaker cloth over the radio face. I have tons of it from my daughter's jawa kit and like the look of the radio having a speaker element. This isn't on the Kenobi pack, but seemed like a worthwhile small addition. Er... the dremel slipped and I cut a bunch. Oops. Actually, this was planned. I want sound to be able to escape from the radio box, so I cut some ports to be hidden by the speaker cloth. Speaker cloth and fascia reinstalled. Switches!!! installed. And I figured out a decent mounting method for my Disney Parks radio knobs. I want the knobs to still be able to spin like the 3D printed ones could. A 2" machine screw is long enough to let the knob mount to the radio surface. I double nutted the screw near the top so that the knobs could spin without unscrewing the hardware. Inside the case, the screws are held in with nyloc bolts to prevent loosening. Three LEDs per knob. Overkill? Very likely. But I have all of these LEDs and I need to get enough load to prevent my power supply from shutting down by itself... Nine LEDs on the radio itself will help that. I drilled things and made a wiring harness for the inside of the pack. This connects the red lights on top of the vent and button box as well as the two white LEDs on the drop siphon. I glued it in place along the outer edges of the pack to prevent the straps from bothering things. Near the internal LED connection, the wiring harness has some metal worm clamps holding them in place. Here's the finished internal radio box. I spent WAAYYYYY too long running these wires, but I'm nearly as proud of this as I am of the whole pack. Nine LEDs worth of wiring and the pack's internal wiring harness all got neatly sorted and tucked, allowing the radio box to be opened without being a rat's nest. The power pack is a "TalentCell" 12v 3000mAh tiny guy from amazon. It weighs 400g and can power both 12v and 5v. It has an on/off switch (hiding behind the plug in this shot) to turn the pack on and off. It should run the pack for a couple days before needing a recharge. It was about $28. I've also got a little Bluetooth speaker velcro'd inside. It won't live in here permanently, but I wanted to see how it works. Spoiler: AMAZINGLY!!! The hollow interior of the radio box gives everything a slightly more tinny sound. The TK Chatter loop sounds super authentic coming out of this. Stupid loud too. And lastly, I added expanded metal to the face plate cut out holes. Whilst wiring things up I nearly put my stupid finger through that speaker cloth at least five times. I know it would have been punctured accidentally on a near-future troop. Some mesh protection seemed to be in order. And as a bonus, it looks super cool from the front when the light happens to hit it. The last bit I needed was the Imperial Cog for on top of the wipe box. I lasered this tiny 40mm guy out from the same acrylic I used on the radio face plate. It's delicate but securely glued to the top and away from harm. Hopefully it won't shatter right away... or ever? And here it is... my finished Kenobi pack. Daylight with power off. Blaster side. I used 3 strips of velcro tape to keep the blaster from moving around. Top. You can almost see the wipe bottle cog and my reshaping of the antenna base. In the dark garage with lights on!!! I wanted this since July. It's SO satisfying to have it. And with that, I think this build is complete. My first troop with it is tomorrow evening at a Make-A-Wish trunk or treat. If I get a good photo, I'll post.

Hello all, I am just getting started on looking to buy my first set of armor and this site has been such a wonderful source of information I figured Id sign up and say thank you for all the wonderful information on this site. keep it up guys and gals. I am a long time Star Wars fan and a gunsmith by trade.

I still don't know why they don't just glue the thighs shut, or use gaffa tape

One of my mannequin's has the toes removed, you don't notice once boots are on. Haven't had the issue with fingers or thumb as most hands are removeable, I add these last once the forearms are on.

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks and Expert Infantry Honor gallery

Honestly I thought the same thing. I sense a resurgence of antenna installs, and perhaps mounted E-11s. I'll admit, two years ago I bought a Rubies E-11 to attach to my HWT pack. I'm sure I'd never actually implement this, but it'd be cool to see a smoke generator install inside the vent box someday, perhaps using a vape pen.

Congratulations Trooper! Welcome to the ranks.

Congratulations Trooper!!! Welcome to EIB ranks.

Hi Galton, and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt EI! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Congratulations Galton. You have a great looking suit of armor. We're just going to add a few things that will make it definitely PERFECT. Let's start with the helmet. - This is a very common issue.. The screws on the ears should ideally align with the rear angle of the trap above them, and the bottom should angle back a little bit more. The right ear could be improved a little. The left ear is perfect. Reference images -Your helmet seems to be riding a little high. Maybe you have too much padding on the top. You could remove a little of that padding. so the helmet will lower a little. Reference images - You could try to get a better arch in your straps with a hot water bath....Doing this would allow them to ride closer to the back plate so they won't protrude out, and put less strain on the elastic strap. You will also prevent them from getting caught on something and breaking. Reference images -One small dressing issue here. The right forearm is a little high than the left. It's very little, but if you lower it you'll avoid the bite in the back. Front Back Reference image -Ideally the screws of the TD should sit closer to the ends of the clips. Reference images -For a better look, we recommend trimming the edge on both sides of the sniper knee, so that it is aligned with the "bottom edge" and looks more screen-accurate. Very easy fix!!! Reference images -Also, some strap, Velcro or similar is sticking out . You can cut it or bend it inward so that it is not visible. Reference images Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -L3. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. In another photo (you can see it in the next point), the position was correct. You may just need to tighten the straps a bit to prevent it from moving. . Reference images -L3. Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. The gap is minimal. Just tighten the belt a little bit and you're done Reference images -L3. The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Many people put some Velcro on the rear of the belt to prevent it from moving down. Reference images - L3. T-tracks and grips shall be of a black plastic appearance with no silver/metallic weathering allowed. There appears to be some weathering on the grip. A coat of black paint and it' s done. Reference images And that's all Galton. A few minor easy fixes and your armor will be ready for the Centurion request. You can request your EIB Certificate HERE

Looks great... Can't wait for @justjoseph63 to see that brand new antenna. I know he loves antennas!

Amazing work Adam.

Great Work ! Congratulations

Ok, I needed to spray with coffee again as the batch I had done previously was not that strong and wasn't noticeable when dried. That being said, I think I'm (hopefully) done with the weathering!

Excellent work, Adam! You should make a new not-at-your-post signature image with you in process of updating your pack load out.

Looks awesome Adam.

I thought you might be trying to use an alias

Thank you for your insight Ardeshir, great to have some good reinforcing information on what we have been able to determine on this CRL upgrade. I can only assume the shoulder tab details was the same as TFA which is why we went that route, but I also can't see why it should matter what material they are made from as long as they are present (ABS or metal) builders discretion like strapping techniques. If you look closely on this screen used TFA asset, you will see that the tabs are actually double layered. Metal underneath for strength with a plastic top to disguise it as white part of the armour. No doubt it also helped to decrease rubbing damage or blackening of the contact area.

Hi everyone. Due to the nature of the NDA’s I of course was not allowed to take any pictures. But what I can tell you is this is pretty darn spot on what you guys have stayed here. I have extensive photos of my rogue one armor that I can’t post for a king time because it will affect my work. The rise of skywalker FOTK that I wore I only wore it once for a fitting because we were going to use them for Previz. But I never wore it again. They just gave us the helmets hahaha so I have a few photos of that. So here are my inputs. Helmet details are spot on. neck seal, there were two types. 11 rib and 8 rib neck seals. Zipper is worn front or back. There were two reasons why they were worn in the front, 1 because some pointed their heads down to see and therefore zipper was visible in rhe back. 2 the zipper was worn in the back and since they clothing tag it down to the under suit s lot of guys would take it off when undressing first break or lunch, and then put it on zipping it in the front. So either is acceptable. I cousins remember how they attached the chest to the back and yoke but sides were Velcro. shoulder bells bad the tab and it was metal but I don’t think they is necessary and I’ll explain it later. Tab can be any material. Since our kits are abs I highly recommend abs tabs. That’s what I’ve done Shoulder bells attached to bicep via a clip and forearms slid up. Picatinny rail moved box aside and you zipped up the forearms and box was velcroed down . gaskets were rubber silicon and for me I thought they were soft. They were trimmed in a fabric that protected them on the edges and an elastic back with a buckle in the front. Elbows and forearms were attached but we can separate them but they were attached via the elbow gasket Same with the legs. Thighs and shins were attached as well via gasket and spats were attached to shins but I didn’t see how. torso had a cross cross strap system that had a thin pad on it and torso zipper up the back. The thermal detonator and butt plate were attached by a webbing and came down the back and the belt pinned it down and buckled inside the pouch. the blasters I saw had many variations. Some didn’t have d rings. Some did and the rings were either black or white. I thought I saw one silver one but not sure. D ring plates were both silver and white. But there were quite a few black d rings. I think if we go white and white or silver and white ring or silver and black ring it’s good. Pistol I did not see gloves I could swear were the exact endor finders gloves and rhe hand plates had a deep groove in it. unfirtunately I didn’t have enough time to take other notes such as the boxes with black being cut out or not. It was my first day and just insane to be able to do this and I had planned on my second run to take more detailed notes and photos. However the pills on the chest I did see that they were cut out, but the box in the center of the chest, the black was painted in. And if I remember correctly the box on the wrist was painted or decal. Not one hundred percent sure. now on the overlaps, the thighs and biceps are overlaps. They are held in place by rubber bands. And they literally pry them open for you to get in. This can not be done in abs, our armor will crack. So this brings me to my next point. I hit the ground over 60 times in one day and nothing happened to my armor. It’s very thick polyurethane armor and very strong. So back to the shoulder bridge that’s why I don’t recommend metal. I contemplated leaving my biceps and thighs open and attaching a rubber material but I decided against it as the armor will crack when trooping and grow apart. The clips on the body armor were TFA clips rhat I saw while helmet clips are TLJ. Very weird. undersuit was a one piece and had shiny built in. But I heard there’s other sets with shiny shorts but couldn’t confirm it. Boots are exact imperial boots first order boots and they may get it from the same maker. I have my actual boots, neck seal, gloves and undersuit that I wore for the rogue one and clone trooper on kenobi. The gloves for the rogue one and clone are again exact gloves from Endor finders like the first order gloves and the boots for the first order snd rogue one and clones are the exact same boots. the thermal detonator is a separate piece screwed in to the back plate just like the clone and rogue one. The TD is hollow and it has a black pvc like tube that slides in. You can take it out but I don’t remember what kept it in. I’ve made my TD hollowed out and with the pvc tube and it is much lighter. Also on rhe other side of rhe tube I painted to match TFA: cod pieces are polyurethane so they flex but there are also rubber vids as well and shoulder bells and chest pieces for stunts. That’s why the cod is flexing in pics. holsters were actual functioning metal ones, the ones I saw. mall the armor parts are polyurethane and very thick and durable. the thighs are attached by two straps to the torso just like the rogue one armor except the rogue one armor had ribbing material to cover them. I didn’t notice that it n this armor. the torso had leather scallops and a front flat leather plate that held the belt and the cod piece. I noticed different shaped cod pieces by the way. and the notes on the cut pieces, yes w lot of times they are cut to fit the performer. We modified armor parts all day long and that’s why you see the different shapes and cute. Oh one more thing there were also foam thermal detonators and you could barely tell they were foam. They looked just like the regular ones. Same thing with the rogue one armor. They are for stunts. I didn’t see executioner axes or batans or prods . it’s pretty much the TLJ armor and if yuu want to enforce the different cut in forearms then you can. I have my rubber gaskets but they were only the actual rubber pieces and none of the finishing. It was quite nice what they had. I just got the rubber parts themselves. The TFA I know snapped in to place even on the torso. I couldn’t tell how because it was already assembled so I’m assuming Velcro. anyway those are my four notes. My armor is almost done. I’ve made some changes to it to function the way I prefer like using smaller shoulder to bicep buckles as well as the double buckles for the thighs attach to a belt and not the toro so. With abs I just think it’s too much torque on the armor and on a belt you get a lot more freedom. The torso attach puts too much tension and weight on abs but also shoulders. That’s it for now.

The problem is, he removed 2" from total shin circumference making them really narrow at the ankle.

Looking good, for higher levels you belt could come up a touch The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. Also remove the excess E6000 from the end of the sniper plate, easy to remove with either a sharp scrap of ABS or thumbnail

Shortened the shoulder straps to make it a little less sloppy.

Did my first time ABS patching on the holes. Sanded & polished as much as I could. Doesn't look too bad.

I got the magazine holder glued to the shroud. Note that I had put blue tape over that area before the painting and sanded it down so that the glue would have a solid area to adhere to. I sanded down the rear of the magazine holder slightly to help with adhesion. Be sure to clean those areas before gluing! Now for something that may be a little controversial- Does anyone notice something a bit odd in this screen used E-11? (Besides the fact that the scope screws are not painted black). If you noticed that the shroud (and the front part of the folding stock) has a "hammered" metal finish you would be correct. Why, I do not know, but I like that look. So, I have taped off the parts that should not have it and will be using Krylon Hammered metal paint on the rest. I spent about an hour with a roll of painter's tape and a razor blade, but I think I am ready for this. Please, Lord Vader let this turn out good. Otherwise I have to sand this down again and start from scratch.

Sprayed coffee on the coat and trousers today:

Tutorial Video OR If you want to buy accurate ones

My wife and daughter were laughing at me because I also said finally and rewound and paused it over and over to look.

Triton Squad is now in Jedi Fallen Order! https://icedrive.net/s/1YRfaDPbF9WaD71QQSCGSQTuzwuW