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Hi troopers, I’ve now finished the main painting on this beautiful lid. The last part left was the vertical lines in the rear traps which are now finished. Here’s a sneak peek, but I’ll do a follow us video soon. [emoji16] Enjoy your day, troopers. [emoji16]

I was just shocked that none of the Triton Squad lines from the PS2, PSP, WII versions of TFU have been extracted. I'm pretty google savvy and couldn't find anything. I am hoping to do some animations with the lines, but Temuera is still my go to for Clones. I do have a bunch of Temuera Morrison lines that I unearthed from both Battlefronts if anyone needs them. Even the cut campaign objectives. Here is the campaign objectives(in order):

I did post some of the recordings from the game, but only 2 of them are clean enough (From the PSP version). The rest have Vader's breathing. Would be nice to get some clear audio for them though. Also, on the PSP version if you were to play the survival mode, they also use Temuera voice lines from AotC and RotS.

no idea how to do that but maybe you can try clipping audio from youtube playthrough videos

As someone who had made more than a few 3D weapons/props, I can add that how much time you spend smoothing it out depends on the material you use to actually print the parts. My first build years ago was a DLT-19 made from PLA. Over 25 hours or so of sanding/filling.. and LOTS of those tiny "threads" that can be a pain to get rid of. Resin prints are pricier (but VERY smooth) so I normally have them done in PETG as I find it much easier to sand/fill. There are many items available to help get rid of print lines, but after initial sanding my "go-to" items are Bondo Glazing and Spot putty for the deeper lines and Rust-oleum Filler Primer before final sanding . Both are available at any auto parts store. If you want a durable "glass like" finish you can use XTC-3D epoxy filler (it takes some practice, though). One thing that is important to do is smooth all the pieces before gluing them. Once assembled, it can be next to impossible to get into all the tiny crevices. Trust me. I have a thread on smoothing out lines using these products (link here) which can help. It was for an ESB E-11 (seen below) but shows the basics and can be applied to any 3D weapon or prop.

Hey Gerald, Excellent job on the helmet! I’d say you’ve really covered the key defining features of a stunt helmet. Regarding the belt covers, I’d go for nice, clean, sharp edges. Essentially, removing all of the edge curve… Original screen used belt (from gallery): Suggestion (approx):

It is looking great so far!

I got the updated armor I've been working on imported in Battlefront 2 and now it's just about hammering down the textures and fixing any bugs like clipping or rig issues. There are ZERO overlapping UVs. My original attempt had a lot of those because n00b. I'm so much better at this and excited to see the new version done some time soon, maybe in a week. Taking my time to really make it beautiful. WIP.

Painting is now completed on the helmet. Please let me know if anyone spots any issues. I cleaned up the gums as suggested earlier. One quick question on the belt snap covers. Are they squared like the one in the image or do I trim back to the edge where it curves? The movie used ones seem to be embedded in the belt.

Since the shoulder pad I made previously was a remix of a scout trooper shoulder and was too thin at small scales for action figure use I decided to make a new version from scratch: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5414220 shoulder by kraggy2011, on Flickr It comes in standard and extra thick versions and scaled for 1:12, 1:6 and 1:1 shoulder2 by kraggy2011, on Flickr I also updated all my older Phase 3 armour models to include scaled versions (many were unscaled).

Hand painting is more screen accurate for sure, I have unsteady hands so I went with the Dave M decals from trooperbay which give the appearance of hand painted. If using templates if you paint white first it will fill any areas which may bleed then apply color coats after completely dry.

I thought about this, but since AP provides the decals, I might just cut out the stripes and use that as a stencil Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Incinerator.mp4

Has anyone been able to rip the Triton Squad voice lines straight from the game?

Yes, I totally get you. Honestly, I find this most when painting a helmet. I get frustrated sometimes if it’s not quite how I planned. However, I come back to it the next day, compare it to the reference photos, and then (usually) feel better. Haha - yes, it’s super when our children get excited about it too. [emoji16]

Hahaha well I'm glad it's wonky then!! I must get a little too caught up in trying to get it perfect to the point it stresses me out! I must look at the haphazard outfits everyone in the movies wore to chill out. And really, seeing my little boy and girl putting the bucket on their tiny heads and dancing around like monkeys reminds me to just have fun with it! Because it IS fun and this has been a dream of mine for years and I didn't think I could accomplish it but I am thanks to all you amazing troopers!!!

Haha. Deformed, wonky, twisted…. YES!! All of the above! And that’s why we luv ‘em! Lol Honestly, as someone whose built many, many helmets, and know the original helmets better than I know my own children (!), you’re doing a really good job. Those ears look great. When I’m building a helmet, it’s really easy to get too focused on certain areas - trying to get it “perfect”. However, when you view it objectively, like I’m viewing yours, you’ve really nothing to worry about at this stage. If the brow really won’t stay up, you could always consider a little drop of glue here and there within the channel of brow trim. (Trying to drill new holes and change the alignment of the face plate/back and cap at this stage could end badly). Keep up the great work, Trooper. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]

That promo blaster is a perfect example of how to finish a print!

The right ear complete and... a problem. After hand-sanding for about an hour, I finally got the right ear to fit well enough. Decent gap on the backside, but it is what it is. My issue now is with the brow trim. Once I attached the ears and tightened them up, it appears that the faceplate must have shifted every so slightly to where the brow trim hangs just a little bit higher on the left side than the right. I'm worried that this is a bigger issue that will require taking off the right ear, somehow filling in my existing drill holes, and redrilling to ensure this doesn't happen! Please tell me I'm wrong!!! Further, the faceplate and back aren't snug together so the brow trim, particularly in the middle, doesn't want to stay up. I've been trying to think of solutions to this and haven't come up with anything good yet. Here are some more pics of the helmet on my cat's scratching post And is it just me or is this bucket very deformed? I know that they come out of the mold slightly deformed, but as I'm putting it together, I'm noticing how out of whack it is and hoping I haven't contributed to it!

@Sly11, I think that'll help. I'll dig up a few more pictures of both FDM (plastic) and SLA (resin) 3d printed items. I think this will be a huge step forward as we see more and more of these accessories appearing on-screen and in our subsequent CRLs. I'm actually printing a new bucket and a few additional accessories for the resurrection of my build thread. I'll take some pictures and cover the finishing process.

Ok, obvious 3d Printing enthusiast here, but all bias aside, this is a great addition. However, I have seen other detachments point to this verbiage from the Clone Trooper Detachment CRLs; it's sort of become an unofficial reference for 3D printed armor and accessories throughout the legion: Armor parts shall be made from fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), or a similar rigid material. This includes vacuum formed plastics as well as properly finished and smoothed 3D printed armor forms. See this thread at 501stclonetroopers.com for examples of acceptable and unacceptable levels of 3D print finishing. Whether we were to use this particular reference or not could be debated, but I think pointing to specific examples may help. If we don't want to link directly to this thread, maybe we can create our own. Here's a few examples I have here in my house. The SE-14R was finished correctly, then scratched up for weathering. The E-22 was kind of slapped together and sprayed flat black so I could take some pictures. I've labeled the stuff we don't want to see on the E-22. Visible print lines and unfilled layer separation markings. Severe print lines Print lines, unfilled pitting and support remnants.

Thanks @Doggydoc! I did the right ear this afternoon. Took me like an hour of hand sanding. Almost threw the whole thing in the garbage haha! I got it on and it looks pretty good but it's affecting my brow trim height a bit. And my brow trim is having a hard time staying up too. thanks for the tips @gmrhodes13! Good call on doing the clamps. I'll try that next time.

I bought stencil templates from trooperbay and they worked great.

Good luck on your build. Nothing like trooping a TK!!!! I built an 850 kit so I'm not much help to you. I will support you in spirit! Just to add, I was challenged by the vents also. Had to fill and redremel. Looking back I should have practiced on some junk plastic first. Check out my thread if you want. Again good luck! Have fun!!

Painting the tubestripes… NERVE RACKING!! [emoji33] Hey troopers, Welcome back. I’ve not painted the tubestripes onto this beautiful helmet. I’ve gone fully old school, using just masking tape and freehand painting. As I discuss in the video, I certainly wasn’t overly pleased with the results as I was doing it, however, once I took a step back and came back to the helmet the next day, I realised that they weren’t anywhere near as bad as I first thought. Here’s some photos of how it’s looking now. And now for some “arty” shots, including my “replica” helmet mixes in with an ANH screenshot: And finally, here’s my latest video of the build, including the tubestripes being painted: Thanks for reading, Dan