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That is something I am a bit worried about, having things look off because its to small. I am going to post some pics before slimming down and hopefully catch that before its to late. Foam may be in my future.

Bicep Return Edge Cuts So I have marked my return edges where I think I will be making the cuts. I am going to be removing all return edges as that seems to be most screen accurate. I am also going to make these cuts, and then size it to my arm for those cuts. Here is the Left one: Here is the top front portion Here is the back top portion. Should I be marking this even lower and taking out that whole curve marked in red? Here is the bottom Right Bicep Here is top front Here is back top. Again should I be cutting along the red line instead? Here is the bottom If you think I am going about this the wrong way please let me know. Thanks!

Looks like an exciting build about to happen! Your Vocoder is actually on the face of your helmet and just needs a coat of paint. Perhaps you mean your Hovi tips? The black cylindrical tusks with wire mesh in the dimples on the front? I didn't see them in your photos. I would say that following an RS build would be a great idea. I have an Anovos kit and followed Tony's build that was already referenced above. It was expertly detailed. Being that you have a different maker there may be some small differences but overall the armor is all very similar maker to maker. Another suggestion would be to check out other troopers EIB and Centurion applications especially those with RS armor to see any common fixes and noteworthy problem areas. Have you reached out to your local garrison? They too may be able to offer you some guidance. Can't wait to see your build thread begin.

If you are working on a design for the coin competition please remember this closes off on May 1st, you are running low on time to submit your entry.

BBB has finally come! I am starting my build thread and will post anything in there from here on out. Thank you all for your help this far, I know it is only just beginning.

Well the day has finally arrived where I got to see those BBB's at my door. I ordered a set of ABS armor from RS Prop Masters and after about 4 months, due to a fire at the RS shop, it has arrived (minus neck seal which is still en route)! Luckily everyone at RS is ok and all of their original molds are safe. At first glance it looks amazing! Being my first ever build and not actually ever interacting with any armor before, I initially thought it would be thinner, but I am very glad to see it does feel sturdy. First sight Bucket parts. Probably will save for last...if my will power will hold Everything all laid out Strapping pack from RS even though I think I ordered everything separate as well since I want to try and go the double snap way I had done a good amount of research before purchasing, and then even more after and while I was waiting for it to a arrive. I decided to go the route of build it myself even though I have never done this, and have received a good amount of support already before even starting. I have also decided to go the route of Centurion right from the start. I will say after opening it all up and seeing it all...it is a bit daunting. I know this is the place to ask questions and I'm sure I will have plenty but just want to say I am super excited to get started! OK so I already have some questions. 1) I am planning on following build threads, but do I need to necessarily follow a thread to my type, ie RS? I saw the top build thread is for an Anovos set going for Centurion and briefly skimmed through and can see differences. I would guess it is pretty much the same, but maybe finding an RS thread would be better? I also have Diana's thread marked to follow and I think she went Centurion? 2) I got a big piece of what I think is ABS, see in the back of the picture of everything all laid out. What is that for? 3) There are a couple pieces that seem like one is a lot bigger than the other. Forearm and thigh (I think) come to mind. Thanks, Matthew Edit: I just realized that I think the vocoders are missing on the helmet. I have emailed RS and expect they will send them, but if anyone notices anything else is missing please let me know!

On my RS set I had to add some pieces of foam inside to help keep them central, you don't want to make them too narrow or they will look odd against the rest of the armor

Ahh ok I will try that out and see if cord is visible from the front.

I run mine up over the neck then down the arm no need for making any holes. Depends on the troop, most of the time I don't use the PTT, you just have to be a little more careful what words you use

After looking at a few more pictures of the original RS suit, it seems where I have marked in red on the back should actually stay, so I am just going to cut where I have marked in black.

Got it. thanks for that. I am thinking of maybe keeping a small amount on the outside but taking everything on the inside off. I am going to mark and post some pics.

Hey David, Are you talking about on the bicep or forearm? I will be removing all the return edge on the forearms, but am a little unsure how much to keep on the biceps. I will need to look at some pictures for the biceps to see how they were on screen.

Thank you!

So I noticed I did the Tbay hand guards and they are slightly less glossy then my Anovos ones so I trimmed them up and got them ready also.

Hi folks, Just a couple of update photos coming up. Blaster with DoopyDoos scope and Hengstler. A little weight comparison between this JMC E-11 and the DoopyDoos. Humbrol Brass 54 for the scope, with the sides of rear feet masked Humbrol 33 Matt Black applied Light weathering to scope and front end of Hengstler counter (by gently rubbing with a file and / or sandpaper Resin t-tracks heated in a pot of boiling water, then shaped into barrel holes. * note - I wasn’t paying attention and mounted the top-middle track too long - I didn’t reserve the final hole for the scope rail to sit into. I realised this around an hour after spray painting. Thankfully, it was easy to reshape and re attach to the blaster. Matt Black 33 applied to the tracks and also a light coat over the Hammered black to reduce the shine/gloss. Note - one hole too long (below photo);

Ah, cool. I went to town on some of the details for the TM build. I followed the RS vids for the measurements but went above and beyond with some of the replication parts (like little quirks of the originals etc). I look forward to following your build. :-)

By all means Post away! We're here to help! If you can't figure something out don't hesitate to ask here on your build thread. There's always a trooper lurking about with an idea or link to what you're looking for.

Oops, rookie mistake!! Yes I meant the hovi tips, thank you. I am going to look super green to RS haha. I looked up the RS build videos put out by RS as I am a very visual learner. I think those will be helpful but I am also going to look at a few build threads as well as probably over posting in here with my million questions. I will look at the centurion and EIB apps and see what the locals have to say, thanks for the tip!

Oh yeaaaahhhhhh

Thank you very much, excited to get started!

Very exciting times, good luck with the build

Tradition has just been a gold version to cut down on overall costs as vendors charge for overall quantity, so it’s cheaper to lump them together. Plus the whole cap on merch.

I just want to take a minute here to express my appreciation. I started this build over a year ago, right before covid shut everything down. When I have the time to work on it, it's been a great project to help take my mind off all the craziness. I'm really thankful for the support and help everyone here has provided. This is a great community here and I'm really excited to become part of it. (hopefully very soon lol). Thanks again everyone. Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

I could ask if they would allow me to purchase one, however when I ordered I seem to remember they only would sell them if you did the full commission. I went the route of self build. I will email them anyhow as you are right, it couldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks Glen! Unfortunately, there won't be electronics in this gun. Maybe the next one? Some quick progress. Glued some parts on barrel halves and joined main frame front and back with trigger. Front barrel with magazine housing: Main frame halves joined, with stock adapter (?) attached at rear bottom frame: There is some minor warping and a bit of an unsightly seam at the front / rear join area due to my printing inexperience, Easy enough to fill and sand: Those little dimples are left over from removing the support trees. Not sure how to minimize this in the future, but I'm learning. These are easy enough to fill and sand smooth. Separate barrel assemblies temporarily placed on the frame so I can say "Pew pew".... Will be filling seams with putty and leaving to dry for a couple days. Stay tuned!

I cant see an issue with updating the title of the R1 CRL, however, as with all our costumes we have used the film title as the easiest and most recognizable prospect for everyone old and new to understand. This means I would not be in favor of removing the Rogue One form the title but happy to add maybe something like (Anthology) in the title, that should give it sufficient separation or understanding for those inclined. Originally FISD was simply for Shiny white TK's, this is why there has not been a CRL created for the Endor variant of trooper from ROTJ. yes there has been discussion over the years but no one prepared to make the costume. As others have mentioned, it still takes a member to want to put in the hard work to co write the CRL and build the costume complete with reference images. First step, have minimum 4 reference images (front, back , left and right side) This is a minimum for the LMO's to entertain a new to legion CRL. Then you need a list of descriptions that differentiate the costume from an already existing one. Seems to be more mixing and matching going on with hard armour than with a soft costume making it a little more difficult for someone to build without decent modification. Princess seams are comparatively easy as opposed building hard armour lol. You guys want this to happen, put the cases forward separately so I can start dialogue with the LMO team. Trust me its easier to start here than to build a costume then try and get them onside to have it as an approved item. There are more of them now which means more scrutiny at basic level so be prepared.

Sounds like I have some gluing to be done once this makes it to the CRL. At this point I think we just need to decide the exact position of the square button and the IC sockets. Although not required, for a higher level of screen accuracy on the E-11 certain greeblies may be added as an option: 1. Two 14 pin IC sockets located on the sight as seen here: Front of forward socket shall sit directly behind front section of sight. Back of rear socket shall be located directly in front of rear section as shown. All prongs are bent upward. The other greeblies can be added if you like, but since they are not too prominent we can omit them. I really don't want to make the CRLs any more confusing. In all honesty I don't feel as if I can charge for these. The IC sockets cost me 18 cents each and the cost of resin to make the other parts is less than 10 cents. Being borderline OCD I would rather see folks take advantage of adding them for screen accuracy.