TK Monkus

Hey Dan, I'll answer your questions first. 1. Yep, exactly. I cut the nylon to whatever length and width I needed and put the snaps in then glued those onto the armor in the spot where I measured they needed to go. I used E6000 through out. I would use clamps and leave them clamped for about 24 hours to make sure it all dried in place. 2. I think I was able to open some of them carefully. I believe I got the rivets in the RS Strapping pack. Otherwise you could probably just get some from a local hardware store? If you take them out and are able to get one out clean, just take that to the store and see if they can match it up. I think it is a pretty standard rivet. Understood about the buttons needing replacement. Keep up the good work!

Hey Dan, No problem! Did you order the kit pre finished by them? So it was ready to wear when you received it? That may be where I got a little confused (not that you can't change things even now!). If so, now I understand as they installed their strapping system it sounds like. I ordered the armor from RS unfinished so built and sized it all, so I never installed the RS strapping system, I went straight to the double snaps. 1. Is that elastic you used for the strapping, or nylon webbing that is more rigid? I used nylon for my strapping so there wasn't as much give as I wanted the pieces to stay pretty much where they were. The collar, butt, and side ab are elastic though. 2. Did you have to replace any of the buttons/snaps that RS provided (collar, cod/butt strap, right side)? If so, can you tell me where you got them? I know I will have to replace at least 1 and I want it to be compatible with what they have used. I did not. Even though I bought mine unfinished, I did buy their strapping pack so have all of those, and I kept those as is. Why do you think you need to replace one, and which one? If you do need to replace, you could probably ask RS to send a replacement. 3. RS internal strapping used little wire things that are screwed into the edges of the armor, did you take those out, or leave them in and just ignore them and put your straps over them? Even though I bought the RS strapping pack, I didn't end up using most of it. My armor was raw so none of that was installed. I had decided from the start, after much research and many questions, to go the double snap route and not the RS strap route. Take a look at my build thread if you'd like and you can see how I ended up strapping it and the process. I think you probably could just put snaps over the "wires" they use as if you take them out, you will need to fill those holes.

Hey there Dan. Just wanted to jump in here as mine is that first link. I actually didn't use the RS internal strapping. I did custom snaps and fit the length of the strap, to whatever length I needed so I wouldn't have to constantly size the straps when I took the armor apart for storage. As some of the others have said, it looks like your back is sitting a bit low and your chest is a bit high. Those pieces are in a way connected as if you move the chest down, the back will come up. Similar on the ab/cod and the butt/kidney. You could then move the ab/cod more towards your body so there isn't that gap which would move the kidney/butt up and close that gap with the back since you moved that up. Are you trying to stick with using the RS strapping? I believe you don't have to for centurion (I didn't) and for me the snap strapping worked much better as I could size it to what I needed. Reach out with any other questions, happy to help. Keep up the great work! M

Thanks, you're awesome!

Hey Justin, Thanks for the link to the glue. If that is what he usually uses, maybe I should get this one instead of the above linked. Re the position selector, I didn't even realize that was missing! Went back and looked at my original approval pics and I think it was never added on! Haha. Probably part of the hustle and bustle of that time, but if you had an extra, I would glue that in as well. Thanks for pointing that out. I can DM you my address and happy to cover shipping.

Hey Joseph, Much appreciated. Will give it a good rub with some sand paper before re applying. Thanks for the tip. M

Oh awesome! Will order some of this and give it a shot. Thanks!

Hello All, I have a rubber E-11 that I got from Hellhounds back in 2022. It has been great through troops and cons, but this year at Comic Con a few pieces have started to come unglued (luckily walking back on the last day!). I was wondering if there is any specific sort of glue that I should use to put them back on? I was thinking just some super glue, but maybe a rubber glue is better? See below a few pics of the pieces that have come off. Thanks for any insight. Thanks, M

Sorry for the super late reply and thanks for the response. I do have the whole back piece glued down. The elastic has some give, but I don't have to pull on it a lot to get the hooks in. I used some pliers to rebend/reshape the hook and that seemed to help.

Awesome, thanks! May give the velcro a try. M

Hello, When I built my TK I used the bra strap closure method on my shins. The metal ends are becoming deformed and hard to get into the holes on the other end. I am wondering what other people have done instead of the bra strap closure and if there is a better way to close the shins? It is also a hassle getting them out at the end of a troop so ideally would like to just find a new way to securely close my shins. Thanks, M

Thanks for the info. I usually wipe the armor down after a troop, but just want to make sure storing it in a non temp controlled area won't have lasting negative effects as well. Thanks, M

Hello All, I have my armor in a big pelican case, and have had it inside the house in a closet for storage. Space is now getting limited and I think I may need to move it into the garage. I am in Southern California so there is not necessarily any crazy weather, but lows would be maybe 40º F in winter and highs would be around 100ºF in summer as it is not at all insulated or climate controlled. I am wondering if that would hurt the armor over time, maybe make it more brittle or something? It is RS ABS if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance. M

@BAZINGA and @gmrhodes13 Awesome, thanks for the input. Going to place an order. M

Hello, I have been wanting to get a voice system for my TK for a while and have just been dragging my feet. Whenever I troop I wish I had it instead of talking through the helmet. With LA Comic Con coming up in October I want to try and get this sorted by then. I am looking to get the icomm from here: https://voicebooster.com/products/icomm-imperial-communication-system Wondered if that is still the one to get and also which amp is the one most people use. Is 10W enough or should I look for more? Battery time is also something I wonder about. The 10W looks like it has 6-8 hours, so wondered if that is accurate. Looks like they sell everything I would need on the voice booster site. (iComm and amp). I am in the US also if that makes a difference. Thanks, M

Thank you! Yes, I would be very curious to see your process and it may be helpful for other troopers as well. M

Requesting Centurion certificate Matthew Landes TK66007 Centurion Letter TKSpartan Much appreciated and thank you for all your help through my whole build! M My pleasure, sir! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/66007-centurion.png

Glen how did you even see that?! I have never even noticed this haha. When looking at the pants there is a black sticker on them that when the light hits it just right does have a "glare". Eagle eyes on you! I will definitely look at doing that or trying to just peel off. Thank you also for all your help through my whole process, could not have gotten here without yours and many other peoples help from the FISD! Thank you, M

Wow! Thank you Mario, and thank you for all your help through this whole building process! M

Thank you Jonathan! The pic came through this time and I can see that it really does not look odd. (not sure why I thought it would). I can also say that I just had my Centurion app approved! I would be curious at your process on tapering as I think I would like to look into it just for an overall better look for me personally. It could also help with a couple notes they gave in my approval. Thanks, M

Hey Jonathan, Much appreciated on the advice and pics. Could you post the front pic again? For some reason it cuts off right under your helmet. I submitted my Centurion app so let's see what they say. While mine was not commissioned, I also feel like my torso is too wide. What did you do to modify? I would love to get it "tapered" in so it does not flare out so much. Thanks, M

After making the alterations mentioned in my EI app I am ready to apply for Centurion. Name: Matthew Landes ID: TK-66007 Garrison: Southern California Garrison Armor Maker: RS Propmasters Helmet Maker: RS Propmasters Blaster Maker: Hellhounds Height/Weight: 5'10 130lbs Boot Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt Supplier: RS Propmasters Neck Seal: RS Propmasters Hand Guard: RS Propmasters Holster Maker: RS Propmasters EI Approval Thread Full Body Armor Details Shoulder Bridges Ab Buttons Cod Snaps Ab/Kidney Connection Wrists Sniper Plate Knee Ammo Pack Interior Strapping Helmet: Accessories TD Holster/Belt Boots Hand Guards/Gloves Neck Seal Blaster I think that should be all the pictures. Please let me know if I missed any and I will post up. Thank you for the consideration! M

Finished up the last bit of requirements and got some paint on the scope of my blaster. Now off to submit my Centurion application. Thanks, M

I have made a few adjustments already. I painted a better shape on the left ear. I tried to clean up the vocoder as well. I trimmed the ab button plates for a better shape I cut the clips of the TD so there was no rounded edge and moved them over. I also trimmed down the end caps so they sat flush with the clips and had the right size gap in between the control panel. I also trimmed the control panel edge to get rid of any return edge. I tried to clean up the return edge on the wrists as well. (don't mind the foam inside) Lastly I flipped the helmet trim around so the thin side faces out. That is it for now. I think I have a solution for both the mis alignment of my sides and the overlap of the back and kidney. I think my back to kidney straps are to short and so are pulling the sides up while also not allowing it to sit high enough above the kidney. I am going to try making longer straps and hopefully that will fix both issues. Thanks, M

Mods can you please delete this thread? I am posting in the build threads as that is a more appropriate spot. Thank you, M