TK Monkus

Thanks, you're awesome!

Hey Justin, Thanks for the link to the glue. If that is what he usually uses, maybe I should get this one instead of the above linked. Re the position selector, I didn't even realize that was missing! Went back and looked at my original approval pics and I think it was never added on! Haha. Probably part of the hustle and bustle of that time, but if you had an extra, I would glue that in as well. Thanks for pointing that out. I can DM you my address and happy to cover shipping.

Hey Joseph, Much appreciated. Will give it a good rub with some sand paper before re applying. Thanks for the tip. M

Oh awesome! Will order some of this and give it a shot. Thanks!

Hello All, I have a rubber E-11 that I got from Hellhounds back in 2022. It has been great through troops and cons, but this year at Comic Con a few pieces have started to come unglued (luckily walking back on the last day!). I was wondering if there is any specific sort of glue that I should use to put them back on? I was thinking just some super glue, but maybe a rubber glue is better? See below a few pics of the pieces that have come off. Thanks for any insight. Thanks, M

Sorry for the super late reply and thanks for the response. I do have the whole back piece glued down. The elastic has some give, but I don't have to pull on it a lot to get the hooks in. I used some pliers to rebend/reshape the hook and that seemed to help.

Awesome, thanks! May give the velcro a try. M

Hello, When I built my TK I used the bra strap closure method on my shins. The metal ends are becoming deformed and hard to get into the holes on the other end. I am wondering what other people have done instead of the bra strap closure and if there is a better way to close the shins? It is also a hassle getting them out at the end of a troop so ideally would like to just find a new way to securely close my shins. Thanks, M

Thanks for the info. I usually wipe the armor down after a troop, but just want to make sure storing it in a non temp controlled area won't have lasting negative effects as well. Thanks, M

Hello All, I have my armor in a big pelican case, and have had it inside the house in a closet for storage. Space is now getting limited and I think I may need to move it into the garage. I am in Southern California so there is not necessarily any crazy weather, but lows would be maybe 40º F in winter and highs would be around 100ºF in summer as it is not at all insulated or climate controlled. I am wondering if that would hurt the armor over time, maybe make it more brittle or something? It is RS ABS if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance. M

@BAZINGA and @gmrhodes13 Awesome, thanks for the input. Going to place an order. M

Hello, I have been wanting to get a voice system for my TK for a while and have just been dragging my feet. Whenever I troop I wish I had it instead of talking through the helmet. With LA Comic Con coming up in October I want to try and get this sorted by then. I am looking to get the icomm from here: https://voicebooster.com/products/icomm-imperial-communication-system Wondered if that is still the one to get and also which amp is the one most people use. Is 10W enough or should I look for more? Battery time is also something I wonder about. The 10W looks like it has 6-8 hours, so wondered if that is accurate. Looks like they sell everything I would need on the voice booster site. (iComm and amp). I am in the US also if that makes a difference. Thanks, M

Thank you! Yes, I would be very curious to see your process and it may be helpful for other troopers as well. M

Requesting Centurion certificate Matthew Landes TK66007 Centurion Letter TKSpartan Much appreciated and thank you for all your help through my whole build! M My pleasure, sir! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/66007-centurion.png

Glen how did you even see that?! I have never even noticed this haha. When looking at the pants there is a black sticker on them that when the light hits it just right does have a "glare". Eagle eyes on you! I will definitely look at doing that or trying to just peel off. Thank you also for all your help through my whole process, could not have gotten here without yours and many other peoples help from the FISD! Thank you, M

Wow! Thank you Mario, and thank you for all your help through this whole building process! M

Thank you Jonathan! The pic came through this time and I can see that it really does not look odd. (not sure why I thought it would). I can also say that I just had my Centurion app approved! I would be curious at your process on tapering as I think I would like to look into it just for an overall better look for me personally. It could also help with a couple notes they gave in my approval. Thanks, M

Hey Jonathan, Much appreciated on the advice and pics. Could you post the front pic again? For some reason it cuts off right under your helmet. I submitted my Centurion app so let's see what they say. While mine was not commissioned, I also feel like my torso is too wide. What did you do to modify? I would love to get it "tapered" in so it does not flare out so much. Thanks, M

After making the alterations mentioned in my EI app I am ready to apply for Centurion. Name: Matthew Landes ID: TK-66007 Garrison: Southern California Garrison Armor Maker: RS Propmasters Helmet Maker: RS Propmasters Blaster Maker: Hellhounds Height/Weight: 5'10 130lbs Boot Maker: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt Supplier: RS Propmasters Neck Seal: RS Propmasters Hand Guard: RS Propmasters Holster Maker: RS Propmasters EI Approval Thread Full Body Armor Details Shoulder Bridges Ab Buttons Cod Snaps Ab/Kidney Connection Wrists Sniper Plate Knee Ammo Pack Interior Strapping Helmet: Accessories TD Holster/Belt Boots Hand Guards/Gloves Neck Seal Blaster I think that should be all the pictures. Please let me know if I missed any and I will post up. Thank you for the consideration! M

Finished up the last bit of requirements and got some paint on the scope of my blaster. Now off to submit my Centurion application. Thanks, M

I have made a few adjustments already. I painted a better shape on the left ear. I tried to clean up the vocoder as well. I trimmed the ab button plates for a better shape I cut the clips of the TD so there was no rounded edge and moved them over. I also trimmed down the end caps so they sat flush with the clips and had the right size gap in between the control panel. I also trimmed the control panel edge to get rid of any return edge. I tried to clean up the return edge on the wrists as well. (don't mind the foam inside) Lastly I flipped the helmet trim around so the thin side faces out. That is it for now. I think I have a solution for both the mis alignment of my sides and the overlap of the back and kidney. I think my back to kidney straps are to short and so are pulling the sides up while also not allowing it to sit high enough above the kidney. I am going to try making longer straps and hopefully that will fix both issues. Thanks, M

Mods can you please delete this thread? I am posting in the build threads as that is a more appropriate spot. Thank you, M

Here are my initial questions. I need to shorten my shoulder bell strapping, if I remove the current straps can I re use those same straps or will the elastic be ruined from trying to remove it? They are attached via E6000. Arms and biceps-I know they are a bit roomy and I added some foam to the inside of the forearms to stop them from sliding around, but it then gives that look that they are to big (which I guess they are). My concern with trimming them back and making them smaller, is that they will look to small proportional to the rest of the armor. Am I looking to far into it? Ideally I would like to not have to have foam. The other issue is I am not sure if I will be able to fit my hand through the front if I make them smaller. What I may do is play around with some foam placement and see if that will be sufficient. Back piece- This is another tricky area. I don't think I have much room to shorten the back/chest elastic as it is already almost touching at the shoulders. I may need to look into bending the corners. Can I shorten my back piece by cutting some off the bottom? Ab/Kidney- Hopefully the double strap will take care of this. My biggest areas of concern are the ab/kidney (again hopefully double straps there will help that), and the back overlap. I will get to work on the other items in the meantime. Slowly but surely we will start to whittle this down! Thanks, M

After making EIB and seeing the work I need to do for Centurion, I figured I would make a new thread for the help I am sure I will need in the final push. See below the notes about what needs to be done. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Let's start from top . Your right ear bump shape looks pretty good , while the left one is a bit rounded at one side. It's just matter of a painting session to improve this detail Reference Images Your Vocoder paint looks pretty ragged and we suggest to add this item to the painting session too. Reference Images Looking closely at you Ab buttons panel it appears to have a little return edge in the top right corner (red line) that could be trimmed to get it flat and you could give a more accurate shape to the little one by trimming a little more. Reference Images As seen on screen , you could move the Ab belt down a bit to the top of the Butt plate . Reference Images Even thought it is not mentioned in the CRL, the Thermal detonator's metal clips should be squared (not rounded), on the control panel side. Reference Image This is a very small detail, but the rivet holding your knee ammo pack is a bit close to the edge compared to the on-screen armor. If you're up for it, we're suggesting you move it in. This would require filling the old hole with ABS paste. Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. This looks like a simple strapping issue. shortening the shoulder strap and a bit could reduce the gap. Another trick here is to remove the Shoulder Bell's return edge to allow them to sit close the chest armor. Reference Images Next, your forearms, The biceps and forearms armor seems very large compared to your arm size. We absolutely welcome troopers of all different body types, but we do expect that for our highest level of approval, the armor is sized appropriately to the wearer's body. In order to size down the biceps and forearms, you'd need to carefully remove the cover strips, trim back the pieces some, and re-glue them. A hot water bath may also be helpful in re-shaping the curve. As per the CRL, all costumes are "...proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size". Reference Images CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Looking at your wrists, there is a remaining little return edge. Just a little sanding job. Reference Images CRL L3: Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Continuing on, your back plate is a little overlapping the kidney. You might consider shortening the elastic connecting the chest and back just a tad, another option would be to bend bend the corners with a hot water bath or heat gun (with care) or even placing very thin foam at your shoulders so the back piece sits a touch higher. Reference Image CRL L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top There is a pretty good sized gap at the tops of the ab/kidney connection on both sides, even with the arms down (pic 2). we think that some double straps would take care of that for a much better "ideal" look. Reference Images Please take a look to This tutorial . It can help as well. CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. This is a common issue and an easy one to fix. Moving them outward and then applying a dab of E-6000 on the rear of the strap will take care of this and keep it from wandering. Moving on, we have your thermal detonator belt clips. there is a noticeable gaps between the clips and the end caps and they will need to be relocated. Since the caps and control panel appear to have a little return edge, you can trim them down and move the clips sideways so they the gap get closed. If it was me, I would use a fine sharp knife or cutter to make the "surgery" . CRL L3: The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure Finally Matt, we havo your blaster scope. A little weathering is fine and dandy (and expected) but that is WAY too much "brass" color showing. Time to break out the spray paint! That's all Matt. We are sure you're going to take the next step with those fixes and continue to the next level. In addition to what the DOs have mentioned, I’d also note that your neck trim appears to be applied the wrong way around. Currently, you have the thick side out, whereas the thin side should be on display.Hopefully, just removing it and flipping it should still fit okay.

Also if this should be under the "build thread" sub, please feel free to move it.