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Sounds like I have some gluing to be done once this makes it to the CRL. At this point I think we just need to decide the exact position of the square button and the IC sockets. Although not required, for a higher level of screen accuracy on the E-11 certain greeblies may be added as an option: 1. Two 14 pin IC sockets located on the sight as seen here: Front of forward socket shall sit directly behind front section of sight. Back of rear socket shall be located directly in front of rear section as shown. All prongs are bent upward. The other greeblies can be added if you like, but since they are not too prominent we can omit them. I really don't want to make the CRLs any more confusing. In all honesty I don't feel as if I can charge for these. The IC sockets cost me 18 cents each and the cost of resin to make the other parts is less than 10 cents. Being borderline OCD I would rather see folks take advantage of adding them for screen accuracy.

So where do we stand at this point? I had some time on my hands so I made up the other greeb, made another silicone mold, cast a few in silver resin and painted/weathered them. These are not attached of course, but are ready to go. This is where I am so far: Looks like this one is centered under the second hole back from the bayonet lug. May have to think about the positioning on this one. Looks to be right above where the grip meets the barrel, but I think the screen shot is a Bapty so it may be off. I might re-do this one to make the button a little more square. The screen shot has 7 pins, which I believe are turned UP rather than down flat against the barrel as seen in the video (last pic). As I mentioned before, if these are approved I will send both greeblies cast in silver resin and two 7 pin IC sockets to anyone who wants a set for the price of postage.

It’s great having so many enthusiastic people in the community. Basically, thank you everyone for being as nerdy and OCD as I am. Lol.

I think if anyone wants to add these after an approval is not a problem. If it's not in the CRL you are going to freak out GML's all over the world Most applicants take photos with blasters even for basic where the blaster is not required but I can imagine the questions because many are accustomed to the E-11. I also think you can charge a couple of bucks to cover your costs plus postage Joseph.

Optional is definitely the way to go. If you want to have it on, go ahead, this is how it's supposed to look like. If not, then that's fine too.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25168-attention-all-fire-team-report-in/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24889-warning-suspected-rs-scam-on-ebay/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22553-it-is-official-the-hwt-costume-designation-is-now-tk/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 9 complete -------------------- Page 10 complete https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19048-a-brand-new-fisd-welcome-to-the-new-skin/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16468-new-white-theme-now-available-for-fisd/, restored by gmrhodes13 Page 11 WIP Please note from 2013 back I'm leaving the newsletters as is as I think the content is important for anyone looking back in our history, majority of images are there BUT if you try to edit just one image and save, the whole newsletter changes all image links to html code as they don't have the new forum required S in the coding so they no longer show and we'd have to update every single image. Once we have finished the rest of the forums I will spend some time going back through all the newsletters and save what I can. From 2012 back a lot of images are not showing in the newsletters but content still of interest Amazing what you can find

I'm in agreement with you, Joseph, that at least that particular chip has 14 pins, and that the screen-used ones may have had wider pins than what you found. I'm tempted to go back through the 3,688 screen captures (they include every instance in which even part of a TK are visible, whether it be part of a helmet peeking out from behind another character, a knee-pack barely above the trash compactor water, or Luke wearing TK-421's belt) I saved from SWSC's 4k image bank to see if I can find any additional angles or close-ups. Though I suspect you pros have already done that work.

Very nice work on the helmet interior Rodney, very clean

This is awesome info, for what it's worth the IC sockets are 16 pin. Amazon has them - https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11090300ux0244-2-54mm-Socket-Adaptors/dp/B0079SM1LW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=14+pin+ic+socket&qid=1616079500&sr=8-3

I'm not sure it's wise to dictate which way the legs are bent just yet, as long as it's not "downwards" (as in the way the normally are used).

Agreed. Optional is the way to go. Too many variations with the screen used blasters. But adding details like these makes for fun blaster building.

I'd be in for a set. Great to see how far this thread has come in such a short time. Great work Joseph

Looking forward to seeing the progress, good luck

Good luck Thomas, looking forward for your advances .

You are very close, Cory! For Basic they should pass, but we would ask that you tighten them up a bit since you are aiming for EI and then Centurion. Not sure if it's the photos, but there seems to be specks of something in many places on the button plates and other parts of the ab plate. To clean up the areas shown below, this is what I would suggest: Use some cotton swabs lightly dipped in mineral spirits (I use the odorless type) to carefully remove any residual paint. Once the paint is removed, use dry swabs to remove any spirits from the surfaces and dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Don't let the spirits dry on the ABS or keep them on too long or it may damage the surface As Glen mentioned, the paint looks really thick in some areas. It would be a pain in the butt-plate, but removing it all and starting from scratch using a template like this or making your own may be the way to go. If you do, here is a tip: After pressing the template(s) firmly down, them hit them with a VERY light coat of white paint. Let that dry and then hit them with a medium coat of the blue (not too heavy).. just enough to be opaque. Doing it that way, the white paint seals the edges so the blue won't bleed underneath, giving you clean, crisp lines. I have a tutorial here if it helps.

I have a selection of different sizes, some buttons are differently sized. These are a little rough, looks like you did two coats, but appears the paint is quite thick, it will wrinkle if you put it on too thick, a few thin coats are best. comparison

Mario, as always, thank you beyond words for all of the help and encouragement. Means a lot brother.

Helmet reassembled with the new liner. Missing screw replaced. Wasn't the same exact 1/4" size and not brass. But it works. Can't find that original screw anywhere. Dabbed the screw finish white on the outer helmet. Installed the acetate lens and installed a second nut to prevent it from happening again if I ever need to remove the lens. We'll see how this works out.

Thanks bud

Hi Ardeshir, Great to know, as expected , you're working on the L3 requirements. About your question, for the review we consider both, CRL and as much reference images as we can see. This TD seam was posted as a suggestion only according to the screen captures and reference images. Yours is, indeed, a great armor build and it's all about your preference to leave the TD as it, this won't be a L3 blocker in no way brother. keep on doing a great work Ardeshir and looking forward for your Centurion submission soon , keep it up !!

The last I heard: they lost the Star Wars license, they are out of money, took a ppp loan, and are giving out loans whenever they sell enough Star Trek and miscellaneous merchandise. Or that’s what I know. Correct me if I’m wrong. Many have come and gone and 5 years later we still don’t have any real possibility of delivery. I find it odd I’m answering my own post this many years later. If you wanna troop and have the funds, I recommend you find other sellers. At the worst, they are respectful of your business. Unlike Anovos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations Jakob!

Congratulations [emoji323]. Almost there. Sent from my INE-LX2 using Tapatalk

I like the term optional myself as it comes back to my thoughts on inconsistency and how we have added higher level items In the past. I’d still like to get a broader feel for these greeblies but would be satisfied as optional add ons. A clear guide to placement would be needed if someone wanted to add them as it would look worse having these things stuck on blasters in the wrong spots. That would drive my OCD nuts lol. If added, each greeble must be positioned as per the below guide/image etc etc. This means we still need to add something to the CRL and in that case, discuss with the LMO team. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure we can/should add them as a requirement in the CRL. as too many folks would have trouble either sourcing or effectively replicating them. This would lead to the number of L3 apps drop or be turned down for that reason alone. Optional / acceptable? My vote is yes.

You can definitely see that they grabbed or where given a blaster for what ever scene, there is one where the blaster changes while Han is holding it, with and without Can see the extra detail on a lot of troopers in a lot of different scenes

Bryan has a post here on our forum in the 3D files area Here is his collection on Thingiverse

Excellent reference there, Arthur. That one is going in my saved folder to recommend in the future. Thanks! I would suggest having it printed with the highest level of detail and fewest print lines you can afford (like SLA or resin). Otherwise, you are in for a ton of filling and sanding.

Those were the files I saw before actually! I couldn't find them for a bit thanks for showing them!

If you want an accurate 3D-print E-11, this is the file to use: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566 The base gun is a British Sterling SMG, you will also need to download the kits for E-11 conversion too, please refer to the instructions on the page. (Created by BR (TK-14082) who is also on our forum.)