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GREAT to hear that you are doing those mods, Stuart! If you look at the screen used (first 3) ones below, you will see a "swoop" at the bottom that faces the front. This is the left shoulder bell. Some armorers have this original design incorporated into their shoulder bells, and some do not. RS armor does include this detail. The one without the swoop (4th pic) goes on your right. Note that having them on the "wrong" sides or not having the swoop present will not affect approval at any level, but it is suggested that if they do that they be on the "correct" sides for better screen accuracy. Hope this helps!

Dear fellow Staff members, Troopers and future Troopers, As Sarah mentioned in a previous post, it is with a heavy heart that I am stepping down in my role of Executive Officer of the FISD. Over the last few months life has thrown me more than a few curve balls, including personal issues, 2 deaths and a hurricane to boot, which in my opinion have precluded me from having the time to effectively perform my duties, and for that I add my sincere apologies to you all. Those of you who have known me over the years know that this Detachment and the people here have honestly meant the world to me, and it has been both an honor and a pleasure being a part of such an incredible group of folks. Although the dust is finally beginning to settle (at last), it will be several weeks before life allows me to get back into the swing of things here 100% as in recent years, but I promise I will get there. After speaking with Sarah, she has graciously offered that I step back into my previous role as Deployment Officer. This will allow me the chance to serve the FISD in the area that I know best, and I look forward not only to returning to assisting future Troopers, but helping those aiming for EI and Centurion attain their goals as well. A big THANK YOU to all of you for bearing with me. Your kind thoughts/comments and personal PMs have helped get me through the recent months more than you will ever know, and an extra big thank you to Sarah for her understanding and keeping me on as part of the Staff. Also, I'm sure that you will all join me in welcoming Brien as our new XO. He is a true treasure here, and I am sure he will continue to go above and beyond to make sure that this Detachment continues to be the best one in the 501st! My very best to you all, and I will see you on the boards a LOT more. Troop on, Joseph

Newly approved Return of the Jedi stormtrooper.

According to the U.S. Social Security Administration (2014) the following names were given/recorded in that year alone: Anakin (218) Kylo (8) Lando (4) Obi (12) Leia (605) Finn (770) Luke (10,431) Mace (61) Padme (14)

The detailing is lacking on this last one - just including it for completeness:

Cool All of us are a little crazy !!

I've decided to leave the armour for a bit and work on the thermal detonator after reading and taking notes from other TK build threads on the forums. I still need to trim the panel and glue. The great thing about the RS kit is they have already attached the correct size clips and level 3 centurion black screws. Before I trim the panel could one of our troopers confirm the dimensions of the panel? Width and length? Many thanks in advance! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Glad the little nudge got some traction. Seems like others are getting their numbers too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thigh shim update. Before: My shims were a little short toward the bottom, so I needed to add some ABS, filler material, and heat mold the bases so they lined up. Turned out pretty well, actually: With the bottoms lining up, it was time to start cleaning up the shims. As as you can there is a fair amount of ABS paste to sand down. I tried to use the Dremel but didn’t feel it was progressing as safely or as well as I wanted. Taking some advice from AJ and the group of FISD Facebook page I tried to figure out a sanding block that was the correct size for the job. Basically something 1/4” or so. Then it hit me: My flat 1 1/2” magnets were 1/4” on their sides. Bingo. Above is the 800 grit. I am presently grinding down the excess ABS with 400 grit and 800. Now: I sanded down the right even more last night and I’ll post a photo of the thighs once they’re ready for the 1500 grit sanding and novus polishing. Cover strips are on both the back (above) and front. I’ll trim the cover strip top once the thighs are complete so at to have an “easy” last thing to do for the thighs other than the thigh ammo belt. Lastly, got in my canvas belt. Going to get that lined up in the next few days, assembled, and attached. The finish line is in sight!!

The rationale for the delayed shipment provided is "I am so pissed off by the former forwarder. Took the boxes and quoted super high rate. Take time to settle down shipping issue. Now it ship by ups. You could have it soon. So sorry." It looks like BSP bit the bullet and paid outrageously high shipping rates to get these kits to me in 2 days from Taiwan. We may have had a bumpy road on this project thus far, but BSP is maintaining their reputation. I can't wait to see these tomorrow. I'll post up pictures and unboxing video's

Where to start? I decided to use the RS Propmasters youtube video and started with the biceps (apparently the easiest parts to build). Please comment on my progress so far as I have never taken on a build this nerve wracking before. Apologies, for not taking pics of all my trimming stages. I get caught up in the build and forget to document. This is something I will improve on as I progress through my build. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Here's my armour kit and helmet kits. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Thanks again Dan, Q and Joseph! I will start a thread over in another area on the modifications suggested, definately going to go for them but I want to make sure I understand and get advice before I put my software engineering skills onto hardware. Um, how do I tell the difference between the left and right shoulder bells? The look *almost* identical to my untrained eye. One has a slightly wider cover strip at the base of the bell, and is slightly more concave on one section on when you look at it in a certain light than the other bell. I can tell that the bell I had on my right shoulder has the thicker strip. Is there something I am missing?

I can help you on that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jolly Roger Squadron forum https://www.jrs501st.com/forums/index.php

I can totally see where you are coming from, Andrew. That is indeed one fierce looking weapon (and I'm envious as all heck of anyone that owns one)! However, the current HWT CRLs are based on the original Battlefront game, and the weapons contained therein. I can certainly appreciate the fact that you want to get this approved, believe me, (I could seriously use a new project) but at some point we need to draw the line as to how many weapons we can wield as HWTs. Being as t was only used in one film, it would honestly make it pretty difficult for it to be included in the CRL. Plus, in looking at all the details involved this would not be an easy build. I have built more E-11s than I can count, as well as DLT-19s and T-21s, but this would be a challenge even I would be loathe to take up. SIDE NOTE: Once you are approved as a HWT, you can carry any weapon you like!

Hi Denis, and thank you for your application for Centurion! Before we "Move along" there are a couple of simple items that need to be addressed, and looking at your build, I am sure you can get these done in no time! The first one concerns your wrist openings. As per the CRL it states that: "No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed". 30 seconds with a Dremel type tool will get rid of the return edge on the "hump". Easy stuff! Reference images It looks as if your right (and left) shoulder bells are still not quite as close as they could be to the shoulder bridges. I see you took the advice and removed the return edges from the bottoms (NICE WORK) but you may want to try a hot-water bath to widen the openings a bit. It should take all of 5 minutes and would give you a more refined look. If you need advice on this, just PM me. Lastly, the issue with your blaster will hold you up from Centurion: Again, as per the CRL for level 3: ..."T-Tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic". The original T-tracks were made from black plastic, and therefore could not have a metallic appearance as yours do. Some flat (or satin) spray paint could fix this in about 2 minutes! Please add an updated photo of the t tracks and one unobstructed shot of the grip to your application. Thanks!! Reference images

That's an awesome weapon! I agree with all your points! But even if it isn't added to the CRL for an HWT, you could always use it on unofficial troops!

Some fantastic advice so far, Stuart. As mentioned, a lot of the details will be determined by your GML, but I see no reason why (with a little tweaking here and there) why you couldn't be applying for Expert Infantry level right after basic 501st approval! RS makes a killer set of armor no doubt, and with our help you could have that EI badge under your name before you know it! I may be am jumping the gun, but if may add to the list a suggestion to get you closer to screen accuracy it would be as follows: 1. As Q mentioned, you could definitely stand to raise the ab plate some. You may have to adjust your strapping a bit, but it will be worth it. I am thinking you hear a "clicking" noise when you walk due to the top of the thighs hitting the cod. This is not normal and can lead to chafing/red marks on your inner thighs, not to mention making it mighty uncomfortable to walk after a while. I need to mention that AWESOME job on your cover strip alignment.. absolute textbook! Once you get your Basic approval, I expect to see your application for level 2!

Nope. They haven't replied to me. It's absolutely annoying how Anovos continues to release new pre-orders like the Mandalorian helmet without fulfilling past orders first Sent from my CLT-AL00 using Tapatalk

That's a pretty bad a$$ weapon, right there. I wouldn't necessarily be against it, although technically it makes our CRL even less accurate than it already is, so it might be hard to convince the brass. I can see arguments in both directions, but unless they put it up for a vote, it's not my call LOL.

Yup, I'm pretty sure I used 1/4" as well. Pretty much any size that's in that range should work, and which one works for you depends on your belt, your ammo belt, and what sort of repairs (if any) are needed, because that all stacks up and determines how thick things are. It's easy to pad things out a little with some spare ABS if it's a smidge longer than needed, than if it's too short to grip adequately. In fact, it may be a good idea to make an ABS washer on the back side, to give more surface area to grip the belt, but it's not strictly necessary. Again, a lot depends on the thickness of the belt. (Anovos OEM belt vs. Imperial Issue, vastly different thicknesses, for instance) Oh, and my belt boxes came pre-assembled from Anovos, already glued together, so I didn't use anything on mine. Others I've assisted have opted for simple rivets, or even just gluing the elastic in place, or both. Chicago screws would technically work here, too, but again, you'll probably want to shim out the inside with scrap ABS "washers" to give extra thickness and strength. And the c-screws would need to be short enough that the shallow boxes still close fully.

Newly approved TK status http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=27136 Thanks!

Sorry for the mistake, here is the correct one. https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=28001

I believe 1/4" is most commonly used. Totally dealer's choice for how you attach the ammo belt, just be aware of my warning as to folding/cracking the reinforcement in the canvas belt. Much less of an issue if you have a big crate with lots of room, a luxury I unfortunately do not have haha https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screws-Plain-Pcs-Silver/dp/B00355AN4U

It'll be a tough sell, but I'm all for it. Maybe add some screen caps if you can find em? Also, the other big question is who is making these? Anyone yet? o.o

My cat's name is Falcon, after the Millennium Falcon. Pretty sure she'd make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs based on her morning (and afternoon and evening and night) zoomies. Cat tax:

Little update of the helmet