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Latest Test Casts- slow progress, no time to work at night much but managed to test the parts seem below. The main stock wishbone frame still has a few trapped air issues but think I can solve that. The end cap was getting me worried as I could not cast one decent one after 4 attempts. Finally figured out a way to get the trapped air out.

Thanks Don. Advice always welcome and appreciated. I do coat my molds with baby powder but maybe I am using it too sparingly so I will try and apply it as you mentioned. Cheers!

Apologies if I’m offering unwanted advice. Not sure what materials you’re using here but tiny surface bubbles can often be eliminated by “talcing” the mold before pouring the resin. The powder eliminates static charge, breaks the surface tension of the resin and literally pulls it into the tiny details of the mold. I’ve found original Gold Bond body powder to be an excellent choice, although any fine dry powder will work, including pigments. Dust some powder in the mold, close it and shake it around vigorously to cover all surfaces. Open it and blow out the excess with an air hose or canned air. Hope this helps.

Man where do I start? When I started being active here back in 2014 Glen already seemed like an expert on things. You were extremely helpful every single day to everyone here. At this point now? Man you are like a senior citizen! To echo everyones comments you truly are the epitome of troopers helping troopers. This forum is very lucky to have you here. And also what is amazing is what was brought up above. You aren't just active here you are active everywhere. So maybe the FISD isn't just lucky to have you. Maybe the entire Legion is lucky to have you. Keep up the amazing work pal. I can't wait to see what the future brings.

Belt boxes - Fixed Brow height - Fixed Sniper knee - Fixed Thigh (lower alignment - Fixed Helmet decals - removed/painting in progress

The Ingame-type panel was made based on the high resolutions photos and the photos posted for paint dimensions guide, which, for some reason, now they look blur, or, at least, on my computer, even going into the photo picture, they look blur...

Yep yep yep! Thank you! I have done 3 troops! Woo hoo! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

AWESOME [emoji1433] !!! I haven’t used Tapatalk in a while.... level 3 ??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely looking nice

Thanks Ted. You’re too kind. Yes, certainly. No problem at all to order specific parts. Up close though the stock has lots of tiny air bubbles but easy to fill I think. Hopefully I can get less bubbles next casting. PM here or on FB about which parts you want and I can try casting them up for you soon.

Thanks, that’s just what I was looking for.

I’m curious....did u finish ur TK ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where is ur approval status & #, Eric ??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I managed to buy a pretty sweet blaster from another trooper (unfinished so got some help completing it). It's got a real hengstler counter that's now displaying my TK# on it. Hope it's good enough for a review and perhaps approval. Eager to get to making the necessary corrections in preparation for Centurion. Thank you everyone for the advice and tips!

Add it to the ribbon run Bud Spakler tried to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So almost a year now since I was approved. 19 official troops and some more unofficial events/conventions under my white ammo belt (I really need to update my troop thread here & troop some more too) and the AP armor is still going very strong. I've had a couple small cracks to deal with but nothing major, one of them was actually a result of how I was packing the armor into the rolling case, easy fix there. After building an Anovos kit (more on that in a second) I've really come to appreciate the proper thickness and durability of the AP kit. I've put some automotive detailing experience into keeping it shiny and mostly scratch free and it makes a huge difference. Posts are more fun with pictures, so here I am meeting the big boss at Dragon Con: And lucky guy that I am, my wife now has a Legacy TK to troop along with me in white armor. She also has an approved Mara Jade & Padme Lake Dress, somehow she ended up with more approved costumes than I have! For now... Back to what I was saying about Anovos, I snagged a great deal on a Shadow Trooper kit and built it just in time for Dragon Con (as in I was finishing the last pieces after we checked in to the hotel). I need to make a few minor adjustments and then I'll be submitting it for approval. Apparently Shadow Troopers can find all of the droids they're looking for: That's all for now!

And the even crazier thing is that I see Glen active on MULTIPLE forums... I see that dude all over the main Legion boards, the IOC boards, etc......... Glen, THANK YOU for your help and input across all of these forums. Congrats on a big milestone and keep up the good work!

Hi For a nice fit you should just barely be able to slide your hand through without glove and handguard. Then put the glove on. If you’re going for Centurion the handguard is to be glued to the glove

Updated

Recent Test Castings- Some parts still coming out of the molds a bit rough looking. Grip came out the best so far. End cap had some bubble issues. Bolt is good but wish I molded it so the cocking handle holes were more sunken. They will need to be drilled out. Hope for more to come later this week (folding stock parts) Grip- Grip with Trigger assembly- Bolt, Magazine Housing and magazine Front nozzle section and end cap

First test cast with some old resin. Not bad so far. Still some practice needed to reduce trapped air.

On my to do list.

Just going to add a bit on battery info. 3.6 and 3.7 are just nominal voltages - the voltage of any lithium-ion varies with the charge level. A properly protected lithium-ion will be at 4.0-4.2v fresh off the charger, spend most of it's run time at ~3.63.7v, then shut itself off to prevent damage when it drops to ~2.5v. Recharge and repeat. It's very important to get a protected cell - aside from the fire hazard (a shorted cell won't necessarily go *boom*, but it can heat up to the point of damaging equipment and even starting a fire that water won't put out), an unprotected cell might charge over the typical 4.2v limit and damage the iComm circuitry. The size lithium-ion to use in a AA holder is perhaps more commonly referred to as a 14500 (name identifies the size - 14mm diameter, 50mm long). In the US, Trustfire is a decent budget brand. I've used XTAR that work well. Genuine Ultrafires are fine. Try to avoid something-fire brands from chinese sellers - they might very well be knock-off cells of dubious quality. Especially avoid any 14500 rated at anything much higher than 900mAh - it's almost guaranteed to be a chinese cell with a fake rating. Most 14500s will be rated at 800-900mAh.