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Here’s a thread worth checking out - and welcome back

Thanks all, I’ll use photo as guide and crack on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So when you can't find what you're looking for you make it yourself Front Back

Slightly better than the other day If I stand completely upright the jatz crackers get squashed. Do I have room for longer elastic shoulder straps as the overlap of the shoulder covers at the back plate is between the 4-5rib which is the same overlap as the chest plate. Is there too much overlap of the chest plate /ab? Can I score more length here? Elastic strapping or nylon webbing internally?

Hi fellow 501st Legion members, After nearly 3 years of development and refinement of the hardware and the code, I'm happy to announce that the currently most advanced blaster firmware FX-BlasterOS (previously known as Proto Blaster Platform) goes open-source, freely downloadable for anyone. To get an impression of the features you can implement now for free, look at the Intro Video on YouTube. For Easter Eggs, make sure you watch it till the end : FX-BlasterOS Intro Video With the software going open-source, you have multiple choices too to build your blaster electronics: Tier1: if you want a high-quality, proven solution which optimally supports all features of FX-BlasterOS, follow the below link: You advantage: - proven, tested - small enough to fit into any blaster - you can charge your Li-Ion battery over USB - comes with extensive power saving options for a sleep mode which can sustain your prop for several months on the shelf - comes already pre-installed with full version of FX-BlasterOS Tier2: you can stick together your own electronics from cheap parts, look how easy it is using Arduino boards and breakouts (see also the Shoping list below for details): To ease programming for those who are not (yet) familier with Arduino, there are detailed working instructions how to do it on the Wiki Page of the Git. In case of anz trouble of technical support request, use the Issue tab of the Git. There is also the possibility to source a carrier board for the cheap components, hugely simplifying the task of soldering and making the electronics more reliable. You can use skyone's excellent rider board which can be used with components compatible with FX-BlasterOS. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230 Shopping List Here is also a shopping list for you of components you will need: Arduino Board: Arduino Nano (actually any Atmega328P based board, wiring examples will be shown for the Nano): ebay search term: Arduino Nano v3 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nano-V3-0-ATmega-328-Board-CH340-USB-Chip-Arduino-Kompatibel/252742123829?hash=item3ad89ac135:g:xCEAAOSwPGtb33e0:rk:1:pf:0 DFPlayer Mini: ebay search term: "DFPlayer mini". Please ask the seller if the module comes with the original manufacturer's YX5200-24SS or YX6300-24SS chipset. You will also want to have a 470 Ohm thru hole resistor to connect the D8 of the Nano to the RX of the DFPlayer. https://www.ebay.de/itm/TF-Card-U-Disk-Mini-MP3-Player-Audio-Voice-Modul-Arduino-DFPlayer-Tafel-AIP/153290978607?hash=item23b0dab52f:g:uewAAOSwP6pbtdXJ:rk:1:pf:0 Speaker: recommended are OD: 20mm or 28mm Impedance: 8Ohm Power: 1W to 2W ebay search term: "20mm 2W 8Ohm speaker" Examples: https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-Audio-Speaker-20mm-8Ohm-8-2W-Stereo-Woofer-Trumpet-Horn-Loudspeaker-Power/162171125788?hash=item25c227001c:g:WRgAAOSwMtxXsvaV:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/28mm-8-Ohm-2W-Round-Speaker-For-DCC-Sound-Like-Loksound-Hornby-Bachmann-Zimo/263578226658?hash=item3d5e7c8fe2:g:BToAAOSwm-Zavo6p:rk:2:pf:0 Neopixel Sticks (for PLI/Status bar): ebay search term: "WS2812 stick" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Stick-8-x-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-for-Arduino-r3/272010992457?hash=item3f551e5b49:g:7YMAAOSw7aBVBxRo:rk:7:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!) Single neopixel on round PCB (for nozzle light): ebay search term: "neopixel flora" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Flora-RGB-Smart-NeoPixel-version-2-Pack-of-4-ADA1260/231237003534?epid=1028248696&hash=item35d6cca90e:g:LGoAAOSwNC5ZezSY:rk:6:pf:0 The original design is from Adafruit, please support the development by purchasing Adafruit products. You can also find similar offers on eBay from cheaper sources as well. Neopixel stripes (for barrel ligting): ebay search term: "WS2812 stripe" https://www.ebay.de/itm/5m-30-60-144-RGB-LED-Streifen-Stripe-mit-WS2812B-5050-SMD-LEDs-WS2812-Versand-DE/222192610445?hash=item33bbb62c8d:m:mR_Pz7NGzDUQhwH1s-6BFvg:rk:1:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!). As most blaster props are black it is recommended to buy a non-waterproof, 60LED/m type of pixel stripe. The striper are soldered together every 0.5m, but you can shorten the stripes easily to any lenght using scrissors, cutting the stripe at the copper landings. Momentary Switch: ebay search term: "momentary switch" or "tactile switch" You will need a single momentary (not latching!!!) swicth for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 builds, two for MK4 and MK5. For the trigger it is recommended to use a switch with a long arm like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter-Mikrotaster-mit-langem-Hebel-250V-3A-125V-5A-S67/330793297018?epid=1154680769&hash=item4d04d1247a:g:8EgAAMXQlrxRcPJ9:rk:1:pf:0 For the mode select, aux. switch you can take the momentary switch of your choice, they come in an infinite variety, take the one which suits your needs. I myself like these small ones: https://www.ebay.de/itm/6mm-x-6mm-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Micro-Momentary-Tact-Assortment-Kit-TE948/283285172378?hash=item41f51cb09a:g:SjoAAOSwo-VcAmNI:rk:9:pf:0 OLED Display with 128x32 resolution with I2C interface: ebay search term: "OLED 128*32" I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-128x32-IIC-I2C-Blue-OLED-Display-DIY-Module-DC3-3V-5V-128-32-Arduino/322536659354?hash=item4b18aed99a:g:ag8AAOSwK6RZLbR9:rk:5:pf:0 or for the scope a smaller one of type "OLED 64x48 I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/4pin-White-0-66-Screen-IIC-I2C-0-66in-OLED-Display-Module-64x48-for-AVR-STM32/272861748083?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Connectors for switches, speaker etc.: ebay search term: "micro JST 2-pin" For 2-wire connections like for switches, speaker, I recommend micro JST connectors with 1.25mm pitch: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Paar-2Pin-1-25-1-25mm-1-25mm-GH-Micro-JST-Stecker-Buchse-10cm-28AWG-Kabel-RC/172626910637?hash=item28315d9dad:g:XHsAAOSwux5YTaEB:rk:3:pf:0 2.1mm recharge port: https://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-2-1-mm-geschlossene-Bauart-Lotanschlus-fur-Hohlstecker/141127499530?hash=item20dbdabf0a:g:4mIAAOSww~xZ1KXj:rk:9:pf:0 Micro- and/or Mini-USB breakout boards: ebay search term: "micro USB breakout" or "mini USB breakout" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Micro-USB-Platine-Adapter-fur-Breadboard-DIP-DIL-Breakout-Board-Arduino/183233499430?hash=item2aa9915126:g:kywAAOSwm8NbAIfU:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-USB-Mini-B-Breakout-Board/272373312981?epid=1663565126&hash=item3f6ab6edd5:g:8BYAAOSwIIFbML51:rk:3:pf:0

Hey everyone! My name is Jerald Smith and I am a new member with Garrison Titan in Washington State. I am 36 years old and have been a Star Wars fan my entire life. It has been a goal to someday be able to wear Stormtrooper armor and become a member of the 501st. I am now very excited to be apart of this family and team. Looking forward to the many years of having fun and putting smiles on people's faces.

It´s not - straight from the CRL Cut-out notches at the bottom of right and left sides of the Kidney Armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 22 mm tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the Posterior Armor plate. However the original armor had it so if you want to ad a little extra ANH-flair to your suit I recommend adding them

Thanks Andy I painted the vocoder... ….and now he keeps me company while I´m on here

Very cool indeed Daniel

Thank you for the link! The longer you wait, the more you’ll shrink with age. Then the armor will fit perfect. Maybe that’s Anovos’ marketing tactics for us taller folks. Hmmm...

Thanks for this! I have it bookmarked. I am trying to work to EIB guidelines from start. But I will be happy just to meet my goal of wearable armor by May 17th.

I just posted this in your old thread - so I'll post it here too... Hi Michael, Yes, the ab and kidney should line up at the top. Also, the kidney should ideally butt up against the back piece with no overlap (so, yeah, it is high) - although I do not believe this is a requirement for basic approval (as per the CRL). For basic approval, you will need to separate your butt plate from your kidney plate. It does look like the butt plate has slipped down a bit in the pictures. You want to keep your cod and butt plates high as possible (i.e. comfortable) so they are not in the way of the thigh pieces. I wouldn't worry about reshaping the chest piece or the back quite yet from what I can see. Check out some of the images in the original trilogy image reference gallery. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ or some of the Centurion applications for the ideal look of the armor. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ Hope that helps. Good luck.

Hey guys So I just finished the new nose mold and injection molding works perfectly on that part now. I just need to modify the mold for the insert piece, then everything is done on my end. Next week I will get a lens for fitting. If that fits, I will get more lenses and will ship the kits out. That being said, I will cast more helmets this weekend to have them in hand. Apologies that this project takes longer than expected. All the best Dino

Hi Michael! I have checked your original post and I can see all of it, so it might just be the fact that your post is very old and stems from a time where FISD wasn't as active as it is now. Maybe you can just start a new build thread but just skip the whole part of the beginning and just add a couple of pictures so people can see where you're at right now. Anyway, welcome back ;)

Thanks, was going to go brackets but recently changed mind to use a double snap setup, was going to try doubled over elastic first and see how I like it. Got 5m each of the webbing and elastic to play around with.

There´s not, use the pic provided by James as a rough guide - idealy the button plates stay within the mounting area and don´t go to big on the paint as seen below (same pic, only bigger) and your golden

Off the top of my head its 5mm on the larger plate

Like a glove One small thing, you seem to have alot of return left on the top ab-plate, If you´re doing the brackets then you will need some but it looks like you could trim atleast half of what you got now. Internall strapping is very much to ones liking, I have elastic for all of mine, others use webbing and happy with that. If you start with elastic and feel it´s not working for you then it´s fairly easy to swap to webbing or vice versa.

So I finally attached the right ear, and my kitchen is reasonably free of small ABS fragments... The cutting wasn't the problem (used the flapper disc on a dremel and marked the ear cap with sharpie, every time just trimming away the bit I'd marked) but reconciling it with the depth of that right side was. To make sure my brow looked even, with the same spacing above the right eye and the left this meant that the right side of the back of the helmet was slightly longer than ideal - which meant that the right ear cap had to do a lot of work to reach from just below the brow strip to cover the curve of the right tubes. Am reasonably happy with the gap - checking the spare ear cap and the moulding I literally couldn't have left any more on the ear cap. (Found also, to pull the tubes in tighter on both sides I had to install a second pop rivet just above the tubes, under the ear cap since the back moulding was so flared out.) So...one down...

Yeah, I'm not a fan of 1in Straps, everything (Except the thigh straps) are 2in. The 2 straps in back are going to connect to my Ab plate in the back to hold the Armor.

Unfortunately Brien, I will not be going FO. I’m looking to get an AM TK kit and build it to Centurion, and turn my current Anovos Armor into a TD.

Your job looks great. We will welcome you very soon to the new rank. Good luck!

Oh, man, today's the day! TK-51351 requesting access. https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=30063 Thanks, and thanks for all the help. Couldn't have done it without the great people here.

Day-um! Talk about fast. I just registered both of us on the 501st site a few hours ago, and we've both been approved and our member profile pages are already set up. I'm now TK-51351! Think I'll just mosey on up and ask for detachment access.

Hi Mark, If it’s possible for you to get it strapped on again and take some pics, we can try to point you in the right direction. A lot of it just depends on how the parts fit ones specific frame. :-) Best wishes, Dan

Glad to hear it man. We have a few troopers in your neck of the woods for sure. Feel free to reach out if you need any hands on help. In the meantime... try your hand at the paint thinner/toothpick method to slightly reduce the ab button paint. That’ll nip it in the bud before Justjoseph asks you to do it for your EIB application. I’m pretty sure your headed in that direction?

"OH, THAT'S OK. I DON'T LIKE CHICKEN, ANYWAYS"

I said "YOUR SHIN COVER STRIPS ARE ON BACKWARDS!"

WHAT?

Actually, if you watch closely, there is a yellow colour that could be from the glue used around the covers at the biceps, so, after everything you all said above, that's another red flag i guess.

It's official! TK40834 reporting for duty! Just need my official forums access on here so I can EIB/Centurion

How could we forget the “airline dinner tray TK” from Solo?