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Ouch, you will need to hand sand for the final bits, the abs paste tends to melt with mechanical sanders. You can also use wet and dry sandpaper and sand wet (add a little dish washing liquid), the paper will last longer and not get as clogged. After getting the rough areas sanded with a 120 dry, I then continue with 240 grit, then 400, 600 and 1200 or ultrafine 2000, then it's a case of using cutting compound to bring back the shine. You can find though that the colouring may be off, the paste can change colour with the addition of acetone. Really it's a hit and miss trial to get the right paint color, having a small airbrush helps as you can tint the paint different shades depending on the armor color. Good luck, there's a lot of work in front of you

I haven't even touched mine yet. They're scary, and the ABS is thick af too. Sent from my MSE-6 droid using Tapatalk

Ok, HOW did I miss those? Gazmosis' especially. Pinned and all. Thank you! Helped immensely! I still may have to order an extra set as I think I overtrimmed my second right ear but that remains to be seen. My third set should go swimmingly though at this rate. What a learning curve.

Check out Sean's build as well, it is with the newer kit.

Thanks for posting the diagram! I know I could have hunted that down so I apologize for the inconvenience. Measuring the top and bottom of the belt gives me 4mm, so it looks like we're good to go. I'm following along with both ukswrath's and navajobro's builds, which are earlier AM models, and it looks like they've made quite an effort to make many parts more accurate/ready to go (mine is the newest version of AM's design).. My S Snaps should be arriving tonight, so I'll snap the abdomen and work on the belt. Been messing with my doopydoo E-11 in the meantime

Yes, sir! ;-)

Hi there Your kidney plate is angling down into the small of your back (where the kidney and posterior plates meet). I reckon if you align the kidney and ab plates correctly, you may gain a couple of centimetres at top of the kidney. Also, have a look at the CRL full figure rear photo. The top of the big box on the back plate (sorry, dunno what that’s called) seems to align at a mid point between shoulder and arm pit, whereas you seem to be trying to align it with your neckline (ie on top of shoulders). FWIW I’m going through a similar issue - I’m not tall, but long in the torso [emoji1] Sent from my DH77 using Tapatalk

Honestly I don't think there's a costume I've built I haven't given some area a hot water bath lol. Looking forward to your results.

Yep, figured as much. I'm all for the extra work hence the questions on reshaping. Honestly, my intent is merely to shape this armor as though it was made for me. I did not make them overly snug but I am a bit tall and lean (at least in the limbs ) so I guess that's the trade-off. Thanks for the input Paul! Good to know Tony. I was planning on the Velcro method and I did buy the Industrial Velcro so I should be good then. If it won't hurt, I think I'll do some hot water bath testing starting with the shoulder bridges and the TD plate and if I feel good about what I've learned from that, try a bath or two to shore up the shin gap just a bit. Thanks for the reinforcement!

Today i got back to the dovetail... it is no0w sitting so tight that no glue is needed... this also fits into my plan, that, once the blaster is finished, i should be able to remove all pieces without destroying anything, when i need to repair the electronics. Unfortunately, i sew too deep at the dovetail, but meanwhile this can be repaired easily with green stuff :-). Thanks again to Dracotrooper, he helped me a lot with his posted picture! I decided to rearrange the magnets for the magazine, as the switch, which will be mounted soon, would not fit in with the old solution. Now it sits in between and works great. When the magazine was clipped in, i recognized how far the progress of the blaster is, meanwhile :-) :-)

M38 c asting ready

Agreed with Glen's comments. I'm not quite as well versed in FOTKs, but based on my knowledge, you shouldn't have issues with basic!

You can try label L/R with different color painters tape on the inside, it makes suit up easlier.

It looks like you have trimmed a fair amount of plastic from the calves. I prefer not to trim parts too small, even if the wearer is very thin because you end up with gaps like you have and it can be hard to get them to close up. I think it's better to to pad out armour and keep the armour looking more natural. What I would do in this situation is to tape the parts closed with a slight overlap and warm up the front shin area with a heat gun to allow the parts to bend. This can be a dangerous move if you are not experienced with a heat gun but if you take it steady and you will be fine. It might take several attempts to get the parts to close up but you will get there. Alternatively, go with the hot water method. I have never used this personally but many have with great results. Good luck

TK 92217 reporting for duty! Just got the email! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Work has been slow. Actually non existent. Fly home from Iceland today. Got some great photos though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With the build and modifications now all done, and TJ_fem trooping hard for the UKG thought I would post up pictures of all the parts in there finished state. I will try and develop a contents tab with links over time just to make navigating the thread easier. For Anyone making the Legacy Era trooper past or present please feel free to drop me a p.m. or post if you have any questions or looking for advice will always try and help out if i can. Thanks for looking Martyn AKA TK42413

also made 12 of these for the arms, is everything else 2” double snaps? (Torso etc) then for the straps, do I wait for help with sizing at the armor party to make them or can I make them ahead of time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk