Leaderboard

Name: Colin Moreh Height: 6'0" Weight: 165 lbs FISD Forum Name: menschie Legion ID #: 11626 Garrison: The Outer Rim Garrison 501st Member Page: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=27514 Armor: ATA Helmet: ATA Blaster: Doopydoos with self-made mods Boots: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: Imperial Issue Hand Plates: justjoseph63 (silicon rubber) Electronics: Aker M1505 with condenser mic, white iPhone 5 with TrooperTalk app, self-made dual 5 volt blower helmet cooling Neck Seal: Imperial Boots Holster: Darman's Props Photos: Front - Arms at Side Back - Arms at Side Left - Arms Raised Drop Box Alignment Right - Arms Raised Drop Box Alignment Ab Detail (no edge on ABS belt) Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment Knee Plate Drop Box Back (drop boxes only look unaligned because of the belt not being worn...see side shots above for reference) Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Ab/Kidney Notch & Details Wrist Side of Forearms Helmet Front Helmet Right Side Helmet Left Side Helmet Back Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Colour S-Trim Blaster Neck Seal Thermal Detonator - Back (Slotted Pan-heads) Holster Attachment Again, thank you very very much for your time and consideration! It’s greatly appreciated!

Woah! Thanks so much Joseph! So incredibly excited. What a long and amazing journey to get here!! Thanks so so much, to you, and to so many others in FISD who helped me get here. What an amazing community. It's an honour to be among the Centurion ranks! Those photos were from my EIB before I tweaked the positioning. I should have replaced those. It is glued now, and the current photos are the standard photos, which show that they're perfect to a ridiculously anal retentive level. Thanks again! Woohoo! Anyone have a couple Centurion shoulder patches that they'd be willing to part with?

Working on the right side clasp, I want to stop the up/down movement and keep a positive "lock". Simple slide Installed

Did som more weathering and took it on a test-drive

Helmet is looking awesome - going to be mistaken for the original when completed

Hi James Thermal Det looks good, belt looks good, but make sure your Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the ends of the plastic ammo portion of the belt. Doesn't matter that that is for level 3 but it is screen accurate and gauging by your build, that's what you are pushing for Nice I3 Prusa printer by the way

Quick update after my 60 minute sprint after dinner. Four wires successfully soldered to the rotary switch. Although originally left feeling short handed in using lead free solder; lead based solder did the trick and gave me a boost of confidence. It's lower melting point allowed me to solder with ease even at a 30 watt setting on my soldering iron. Tinning the soldering iron tip also helped allot. I was pretty frustrated with lead free because it took forever to melt the solder and with these small wires / components, experienced a huge headache. The light duty lead bases rosen core solder (60/40) at 0.8mm gauge was awesome. With wires only 1/32" thick, it was definitely the right solder choice for the job. Minor adjustments remaining include rotating the switch more and positioning the switch lever further up by 2mm to match SMG references. I also need to label the wires so they can be made sense of when accessing them from the receiver, post installation. Finally, green stuff will need to be added along with a plastic sheet to close off the cavity. Yeah yeah lever needs to be installed too; can't forget about that More to come; thanks for reading!

I have not been working much on the armor these last few weeks - summer weather and young kids keeps a guy busy enough. I have managed to get a few things done. Tapatalk is broken so I have to see if I remember how to use imgur. So I have my arms glued together and ready for strapping. My thighs have the inner cover strip glued in. My right thigh needed some extra work so I glued the top half first and the bottom half is setting tonight. The shins have an inner cover strip in place and one shin has the outer cover strip glued on - then I ran out of magnets. Managed a little more work on the helmet. I painted the frown and started on the traps and tears. I will need to expand the traps and tears a bit - the return edge is tricky to assess on the softer AP helmet. Taking a picture with the flash really brings it out so it is easier to compare to the reference material. I broke off a piece from the upper left corner of the left eye (right corner in pic). You can kind of see it in the first picture above. I added some ABS paste and will sand it down tomorrow. Doesn't look like much in the picture, but I almost threw-up when it happened. Gotta love that ABS paste! I also started the tedious process of sanding my T-21 3D printed model. I'm using a rust coloured filler primer - I might use this with liquid mask to create a worn rusted look eventually. I'll see what I think then I actually start to paint. This is actually my second coat of filler primer. the pieces on the left have been sanded up to 600 grit. I will need at least one more coat of primer - probably two.

Both

I've been a Star Wars fan since I was little. My first love when I saw the movies (especially "A New Hope", my favorite from the oldies) was everything Empire. Specifically the Stormtroopers. Obviously I wanted to do a TK kit for me, but I wasn't sure how to do it, where to get it, when to get it, or who to get to help me with it. Long story short, I discovered my local Garrison (Puerto Rico) through now a good friend that I met at a local con. He also became my mentor and started guiding me though. At the moment I didn't have the money to buy a kit, or anything near it. So I just patiently "waited" (several years) for the moment to come. While this happened, I met my Garrison CO (Comanding Officer) at the moment (2017) and we eventually became good friends. One day I spoke to him about my interest in entering the Garrison but also explained to him my "monetary" issue. He understood perfectly. Then I also told him about my interest in entering the group (in the meantime) as a handler. He gave me the oportunity to enter as a handler. He also had told me that before me there was a member that entered first as a handler and eventually got his kit. That brought a certain peace and joy to me because that meant that I could be part of the group in the meantime and learn anyway from others, while being around Star Wars characters (50% of my dream come true). When "The Force Awakens" came out, I saw the movie and fell in love with (Kylo) the First Order Stormtroopers. That is the kit that I wanted! That's the one that I wanted as my first kit! I had told my CO that I wanted that kit (he's the only one in PR that has it, for now) and he told me the expenses that it was going to pull to get/make. It was a slight let down for me. But I didn't loose hope. I still want that kit. I kept searching for other possible kits to make. My moment came and I finally got my first kit... A "Rogue One" TK kit. The first one in my Garrison. I bought it with my student loan leftovers (had to start getting it for my last years of college). TA-DAAAAA!!!! Didn't expect that, huh. Yeah me either. But hey! WORTH IT. Granted that my loan leftovers from that year weren't going to be enough to get a FOTK kit. But were enough to get a R1TK kit. My CO helped me build it and paint it (always grateful for that). Take my word that I will do a FOTK kit soon. Most likely also with my last student loan leftovers, but I will do it. My dream finally came true. I finally became TK-24333 at my local Garrison. I would have loved for it to be with a FOTK but it was meant to be with a R1TK. After aaaaaallllll of this being said, I will post here more of my R1TK build. I will write about what I have learned thanks to my Garrison CO and hopefully this will help new recruits. Keep in mind that the TK and Mimban troopers in "Solo A Star Wars Story" are the same as the ones in "Rogue One". So these posts will help for those too. The Mimban troopers are the same kit as the R1 troopers, except a wee bit dirty (just a little). Hopefully I'll be able to share what I have learned and be of help with future R1TK builds.

Thank you very much for your review and your advice. It's a real honor to be awarded with EIB rank. You really made my day! I will definitely be making these fixes ASAP and submitting for Centurion. I will see you there soon!

Congratulations trooper

Hey Zac, and thank you for your ANH-Stunt EI application. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. On behalf of Tony and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Just a few small notes on this outstanding build, brother. I noticed that your right shoulder bridge could use a bit of trimming to match the left one. This quick and easy fix will add to the look of of your armor Perfect job on the shoulder bell to shoulder bridge placement, but they could be closer to your back plate. Trimming all the return edge from the bottom of your shoulder bells will help, or maybe giving them a hot water bath to help reshape them a bit. Reference image Reference image As mentioned earlier in your thread, I would definitely hit your scope with some black spray paint. You can have some brass showing, of course, but toning it down will add to a better look, Reference image In several shots it shows your posterior plate actually riding over your kidney plate. It should actually be underneath and as level as possible. Great job on that double-snap set-up, (I swear by it), but I would suggest taking 10 minutes to make 2 new (tighter) nylon straps for the kidney/posterior connection. Reference image Centurion Suggestions: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. A really quick fix is needed for your drop box, (just tighten it up a tad). The CRL states that there should be a "minimal gap between belt and box". Reference image

Congratulations trooper

It was! Thanks bro! So stoked!

It’s hardly noticeable. If it bothers you then try and trim it down a bit. Personally I think it’s fine. Everything lines up nicely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, Colin - that was quick!! Many, many congrats. Welcome to Centurion. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Colin, welcome back and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted. I appreciate you making the repairs suggested at EI...nice work! Your armor now contains all necessary elements to qualify you for Centurion. Tony and I would like to congratulate and welcome you to the ranks, brother.  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: The only suggestion I can suggest would be to glue the drop box straps in place. I the standing shots I can see that you have them aligned with the ends of the belt, but in the rear photo they still seem to sit a little too far in, and you will need to keep them in place. Congratulations Centurion, now get out there and make the Outer Rim Garrison proud!

Thanks! Yeah, I haven't finished fine tuning the ear gaps yet. The whole right ear is still fitting funny. The right tube is wonky - painting the stripes on it really highlighted that fact. I struggled with figuring out the ear thickness too. They do look different in some pics. I've decided to leave as is for now - it seems the angle of the shot (movie) really makes the ears look different. I'm glad to hear that I wasn't the only one thinking that.

The bucket looks fantastic! One thing that I noticed on my RS helmet is that the right side tube on the face is somewhat collapsed when you mate it with the cape.... Hence the ear gap. Mine has a very uncomfortable ear gap, perhaps too large, but I like it and it's not too far off from the real deal. Have a close look at the screen bucket, that ear gap is quite substantial. And some smaller things I've noticed and echoed, which would be up for debate, is that the left ear is a tad thicker and set lower on the bucket. I just ran with those observations..... Swat designation be damned! Lol.... Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Roger that sir! Many thanks for that!

yep, here you go, this is a screen used belt

Thanks for your patience Zac Joseph or myself will be with you shortly

Electronics yes my fav

I tried one of those Google Chrome extensions to view Photobucket photos and so far it works for me. I can see all of my photos that were un viewable after the Photobucket disaster. If you have not yet, its worth trying it. I might start posting up pics again if this is a permanent fix for all members to use. Here is the extension link: Photobucket Embedded Image Fix https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/photobucket?_category=extensions

Very nice, Colin! I think you nailed it! Also, very unique placement of the iPhone. I've got mine up on the chest plate next to the Aker. See ya soon on the Centurion side! Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

Hey Chris The blue should match the reference image the best you can. People have been doing Commanders for some years now. When I did my research in peoples build threads there was many different brands used. My first choice "Blue Angel" blue was about impossible to find. I ended up using Tamiya TS-15 blue. It's a nice deep blue. And Tamiya is perfect for plastic that flexes. Good Luck and look foward to seeing what you come up with!

Shins are mostly assembled. I still need to remove excess on the top inside and take care of the long edge. Calf closures are glued in, now I just have to fix this gap on the bottom. I know whats getting a hot water bath this weekend! I have put my black elastic in between the bicep and the forearm and got my screws painted on the thermal detonator Do people paint both sets of screws or just the one that will be most visible?

Hello again E-11 Blaster Enthusiasts! I've been on a hiatus this past little while focusing on family, career, and a trip overseas but this past weekend, allowed myself to re-enter my build mindset, especially so as Father's Day is coming up. We gotta give ourselves some allowances once and a while right? Ok - so I got going with a fairly major component of the grip - the selector switch. Doopydoos grip with rotary switch from T-Jay and selector lever. Will install wiring to switch to enable future electronics Tino rotary switch with terminals bent to help with installation into switch housing Bottom plastic ring from Tino rotary switch removed using lexan scissors Plastic ring from bottom of Tino rotary switch removed. Resulting surface smoothed with sandpaper Drum sanding bit and additional bit used to shape depth of hole for rotary switch install Drum dremel bit and spade bit used to create recess for rotary switch housing. Some hollow through to let wires come out the top Carving out channel for rotary switch lever Rotary switch positioned fully inside grip Super happy to see the rotary switch sitting inside the cavity I drilled out, although made abit too wide but nothing a little green stuff can't help fix. I also have some plastic from T-Jay's completion set I will use to close off the open cavity. Although initially apprehensive to begin the task of soldering wires to the rotary switch terminals, I have new found confidence with the task after experimenting with and purchasing the correct solder for the job. I found using lead-based solder works so much better than lead-free solder as it has a lower melting point; enabling me to get the job done accurately and proficiently. Good ventilation is essential in using lead-based ones though; I will have my garage door open. With build momentum on the rise, want to see the BlastFX rumble motor and mode switch installed as well; plans are to get going on these by months end Well...thanks for reading, have a terrific day!

For anyone still interested in any progress on these scopes,etc. please go to my Facebook Bulldog Props Page. Due to the photobucket fiasco, I haven’t found a reliable way to post pics so I am using the Facebook page for now. https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/

Hi everyone, I roll-up my sleeves a little higher here as I gather understanding and attempt to modify my doopy trigger and trigger housing to follow that of the real thing. I ready green stuff to soon add to my doopydoos trigger and make way in the trigger housing for a future installation. I finish off with a light show of sorts; enable better light transfer for my BlastFX LED light to travel down the receiver tube. I use a 1/2 inch outer diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) to mimic the barrel following SMG references. Trigger housing as seen from the top following SMG references. Interesting to see component parts out. Here are some underside pictures of the trigger housing. The hole for the trigger goes all the way up and room to boot. Really liked studying these pictures of the FISD E-11 blaster reference photo compendium. Here, you can see the casing that goes over-top the trigger housing taken out. Here's a picture of Tino's replica trigger and SMG reference. This here breathes light on how the trigger actually worked. I gather that the trigger maintained constant 'push' pressure from that bullet looking component, the trigger plunger and in pulling the trigger, compressed the spring on the back of it. I will attempt to mimic this action but after modifying the doopydoos trigger piece and doing a little carving into the trigger housing. Use green stuff to add to doopy trigger to mold like the real thing following SMG references Tino's Replica SMG trigger used to mold after. Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation To increase the light effects inside the barrel when invoking the electronics, will apply a half inch outer diameter with 3 / 8 inch inner diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) over top the LED light. Frost it with 150 grit sandpaper. Frosted acrylic tube; it is no longer clear and can carry light down the tube Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with red colored blaster bolts from BlastFX Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with blue colored stun rays from BlastFX Thank you for checking up on me once again; have a terrific day!